2100CD Rebirth

[Marshy]

I'm goin to be "restoring" this 2100CD in the very near future for my father. It's his saw and I nabbed it from him without him knowing. The crank is broken where the clutch threads end. I have a replacement 285 crank that will be going in. My intent is to return it to good looking and running condition. I will use this thread to track my progress and ask for help. I've never split a chainsaw, nor do I have a case splitter.

First piece of advice I'm seeking is about a case splitter. Can I make my own or buy one for cheap? Any help is appreciated.

Second piece of info I'm wondering about is what arethe crank bearing numbers. I have an IPL that I can reference but it does not give a bearing number only a husky number... S/N # starts with 2991, any idea what year this is? It does not have a chain brake. Thanks!

 

[295 tramp]

Before I bought a case splitter I would apply heat at the bearing race area.
Just make sure all the bolts are removed, heat around the bearings, use a brass punch and tap the crank.
the bearings will come out with the crank.
Here's a link that has the IPL with prices and availability.
Good luck with the build
http://www.powermowersales.com/p/Husqvarna-2100-CD-Chainsaw-Parts-1979-12

 

[Marshy]

Thanks. I know the Husqvarna part number for the crank bearings is 293121504. What I wanted to know is if they are a 6201 or 6203 SKF bearing..?

Are case splitters universal?

 

[Marshy]

Pictures are challenging because my phone only has enough storage room for 1 picture... Here's another.

 

[Marshy]

So depending on year of the saw I see the crank bearings are either Husky # 503 25 00-02 bearings which are 6203 C3 bearings, or Husky part # 293 12 15-04. Does anyone know if the 293 12 15-04 are the same bearing as the 503 25 00-02 (i.e 6203)?

 

[srcarr52]

As far as I know the 2100 only used the 6203 C3 bearing, same bearing as a 181/281/288/394/395.

You can use WD40 or Opps Off to get that duck tape residue off. Any other none oil based solvent will bleach the plastic.

The Husqvarna crank splitter will work great on that saw here is a link to a place where you can purchase one.
http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1439

It's also pretty easy to make a bar stud mounted splitter. You'll still need to press the flywheel side out. Check out mweba's videos, he has many on splitting and assembling cases.

 

[Big_Wood]

So depending on year of the saw I see the crank bearings are either Husky # 503 25 00-02 bearings which are 6203 C3 bearings, or Husky part # 293 12 15-04. Does anyone know if the 293 12 15-04 are the same bearing as the 503 25 00-02 (i.e 6203)?

you most likely found a number that the original superceded to so i wouldn't worry about it. good to see this saw finally get to your bench marshy.

 

[VinceGU05]

any updates Marshy. this thread stopped before it got started

 

[Adirondackstihl]

 

[blk05crew]

He bought the two top cover plastic pieces from me recently so maybe he is working on it.

 

[Sparkysparks9]

I love these boat anchors!!

 

[Marshy]

I built a cranky splitter, got new used cylinder shroud and air filter cover was preparing to work on it this past summer and I dropped a tree branch on my 285CD and I've been trying to rebuild my motor in my K10 pickup. II think I will get tobit after my truck engine is finished and my firewood is moved.

Engine might be done this week. I figured putting the 285 back together would motivate me to do the 2100. I also built a saw bench and have more room too!

 

[Big_Wood]

what did you use between the intake and block? i've seen alot of novice engine builders leave that dry and open. results in a serious oil leaker lol. i can't tell if that grey is a sealer but if it is you are meticulous like me with cleaning things up. nothing worse then a sloppy mess done by some goof rushing his work. even GM leave that area a goopey ugly mess but they are production so have an excuse. shoulda done it in orange though. here's a 6 i did. many many since then but i just stopped taking pics.

 

[Marshy]

That pic just has the intake sitting there with no sealant. Just installed it tonight and used Permatex Ultra Grey high torque RTV. I put a thin bead down and set the manifold andbit didn't even touch it, the gap seemed large. I put another bead right over top of the first one and it closed just fine. Looks proper now.



I have one more bolt to paint on that timing cover lol.

 

[Big_Wood]

The gaps on those 90 degree V8's seems tight after you do a 60 degree V6 lol

 

[Marshy]

Yup, I'll probably mask off the leading edge if the manifold and shoot some paint there. There's some bare metal exposed there for the sealing surface thatvdidbt get used. If I do it right I can get the grey rtv sealant painted enough to hide it also. The water pump is going to take a lot of wire brushing to get clean. Im not looking forward to getting that preped and painted. I have the valve covers taking a gunk bath over night and will get power washed tomorrow and more paint. I have to rebuild my carb and get ready to drop in the distributor. Getting closer.

 

[Big_Wood]

I love building those small blocks but I think the most fun currently for me was a 4 cylinder out of a Nissan 240sx

 

[Marshy]

Drop in on my truck build thread here.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/84-k10-engine-build.283029/

I have to go to bed its quarter till 3.

 

[Big_Wood]

Same here. I'll check it out tomorrow

 

[FamilyTradition]

Marshy, nice looking 2100 project, and nice looking small block as well! My '72 K5 4x4 Blazer has the original 350 that hasn't ever been out of the truck. The top end was done before I bought it 20 years ago, but it's sat so much the valve seals have deteriorated and it puffs blue smoke upon start up. Looking forward to seeing more on your 2100. Happy Thanksgiving, Max.