24" cylinder vs 30" cylinder

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milkie62

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My splitter is running a 24" cylinder right now. Was thinking of jumping up to a 30" cylinder since sometimes blocked wood given to me may be a tad over 24" . I have been wanting to cut a true 24-28" inch piece for my OWB. But with the way the logs are dropped I may not beable to make a square cut. Has anybody run into any problems with a 30" cylinder with any type of bending issues ? Speed is not a worry of mine. No issues at all in the 30 yrs since I have built it, not even a carb clogged since I believe in stabil in every tank of gas. Thanks.
 
I prefer 26-28" cuts for various reasons. My home made splitter has a 26" stroke and a static wedge that's around 2" away from the end of the stroke. Stringy pieces get pushed through to cut them off with a block or another piece of wood. I'd say the extra stroke is worth it especially if you cut everything long. Very annoying if you are cutting a variety and it auto returns all the way back for a 16" piece for example.
 
5"x36" cylinder with a 2" rod on mine. If I'm splitting a 16" long round that's reluctant to split, that cylinder definitely flexes, but I don't think it's a problem. I'm also pushing everything through a 4 way wedge.
 
Couple of things that need to be addressed. First is the installation of the longer cylinder. A 6in longer stroke is going to require pin center distance to increase by about a foot. Is your beam going to be long enough to be able to cut the rear cyl mounts off and relocate. If not, are you prepared to either replace the beam with a longer one, or are you able to add to the current beam in a manner that wont interfere with other components and wont break under severe stress.
To prevent the rod from bending, a simple loop or strap can be added to the rod end of the cylinder that will hold the cyl/rod in line. A longer slide/pusher plate will help also.
 
I run a 30" x 4" cyl and never have had an issue. I run on the lower side of power to keep everything together. Sometimes I have to work around a large chunk (24" - 30" diameter knotty stuff) instead of right down the middle. I've seen a little deflection but my relief comes in before anything bad can happen. I have a knife edge stationary wedge with a slip on 4 way, "you got to know when to hold 'em, you got to know when to fold 'em" :)
 
We burn up to 24 inch long wood so the 24" X 5" ram works out perfectly. It was also perfect back when we sold firewood.

If it's to long to fit on the splitter then it won't fit in the stove.
 
Couple of things that need to be addressed. First is the installation of the longer cylinder. A 6in longer stroke is going to require pin center distance to increase by about a foot. Is your beam going to be long enough to be able to cut the rear cyl mounts off and relocate. If not, are you prepared to either replace the beam with a longer one, or are you able to add to the current beam in a manner that wont interfere with other components and wont break under severe stress.
To prevent the rod from bending, a simple loop or strap can be added to the rod end of the cylinder that will hold the cyl/rod in line. A longer slide/pusher plate will help also.

I have a Prince cylinder now and the 30" cyl including pin centers is just a tad over 6". My beam will easily accommodate it. When I built the splitter, I used air to push out the ram and then set the rear mt about 3/8" or so from hitting the wedge. I have almost a foot of beam behind my rear stop.
 
I have found some thick plastic cylinder halves for my cylinder should I want to make a stop for shorter wood on the return stroke.
 
I have a Prince cylinder now and the 30" cyl including pin centers is just a tad over 6". My beam will easily accommodate it. When I built the splitter, I used air to push out the ram and then set the rear mt about 3/8" or so from hitting the wedge. I have almost a foot of beam behind my rear stop.
That extra pin center distance is just the extra length of the cyl while retracted. Once the cyl is fully extended, it will be 12 inches longer. Measure both cyl pin centers with the cyl fully extended. That is the distance you will need to match.
 
That extra pin center distance is just the extra length of the cyl while retracted. Once the cyl is fully extended, it will be 12 inches longer. Measure both cyl pin centers with the cyl fully extended. That is the distance you will need to match.

Thanks Muddstopper, I was forgetting the closed setup was 6" longer and then the extended setup was 6" more . May be REAL close to not working.
 

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