241c , 261c , 362c adapter for K/N filter

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I already posted a bunch of links earlier and you refused to look at them.
 
When you’re payin my bills you are the boss ! Least I didn’t leave the key in the chuck !
What you mean is......You can be stupid.
Leaving the key in the chuck usually just hurts the lathe.
And explain that to the surgeon as he goes into rebuild your arm.
“Oh....you didn’t leave the key in the chuck....well okay then you know what you are doing”

A sleeve caught means you get your arm wrapped around the chuck as the lathe pulls you into the chuck. Making 3” radius bends in a he bones of your arm.
The lathe is an equal opportunity destroyer. It has no conscience.

Go ahead......trying to help.
 
I already posted a bunch of links earlier and you refused to look at them.
Ok pal ... right now you are pissing in the wind as far as I’m concerned k ? If you do not have 2019 chainsaw-application-specific oiled filter (whether KN Uni or Max flo)links then please go play in another sandbox ... obviously You just don’t get it / want to learn and Uncle Bugs grows weary of your repetitive posts ... tell ya what —- you are absolutely correct ! Now please go do something productive!!!
 
What you mean is......You can be stupid.
Leaving the key in the chuck usually just hurts the lathe.
And explain that to the surgeon as he goes into rebuild your arm.
“Oh....you didn’t leave the key in the chuck....well okay then you know what you are doing”

A sleeve caught means you get your arm wrapped around the chuck as the lathe pulls you into the chuck. Making 3” radius bends in a he bones of your arm.
The lathe is an equal opportunity destroyer. It has no conscience.

Go ahead......trying to help.
Thank you sir for today’s lesson in proper PPE ! I will roll up my sleeves ! Apparently you don’t have much machine-shop experience in regards to the chuck / key ... with a sufficiently robust machine leaving one in the chuck can KILL you or a bystander ... I have a small “hobby lathe” that will blow the breaker long before it wood ever make 3” radius bends in the bones of my arm , in fact it stalls / trips very easily ..... by design
 
Ok pal ... right now you are pissing in the wind as far as I’m concerned k ? If you do not have 2019 chainsaw-application-specific oiled filter (whether KN Uni or Max flo)links then please go play in another sandbox ... obviously You just don’t get it / want to learn and Uncle Bugs grows weary of your repetitive posts ... tell ya what —- you are absolutely correct ! Now please go do something productive!!!


I don’t mind getting a little piss on my shins tbh. You asked for proof and raged out and I merely pointed out I’ve tried my best to get you to not only understand the problems with the k&n but also told you of other brands that have been proven and tested to work far better. U don’t have much room to complain about growing weary of posts............
 
Thank you sir for today’s lesson in proper PPE ! I will roll up my sleeves ! Apparently you don’t have much machine-shop experience in regards to the chuck / key ... with a sufficiently robust machine leaving one in the chuck can KILL you or a bystander ... I have a small “hobby lathe” that will blow the breaker before it wood ever make 3” radius bends in the bones of my arm , in fact it stalls / trips very easily ..... by design

Hole up. You think your lathe will trip a breaker before it will break your arm?
 
Hole up. You think your lathe will trip a breaker before it will break your arm?
I KNOW it will ! After all I wired a 3amp breaker BEFORE the 10amp fuse ! Never can be too careful around 1/10hp motors ..besides I don’t plan on testing your theory anytime soon!. In fact I wood be FAR more concerned about operating 4,5,6,7,8,9 hp chainsaws than your scenario! And I don’t wear chaps when I cut either ... a man knows what he needs so all the safety-Crats can chill out already !
 
I KNOW it will ! After all I wired a 3amp breaker BEFORE the 10amp fuse ! Never can be too careful around 1/10hp motors ... In fact I wood be FAR more concerned about operating 4,5,6,7,8,9 hp chainsaws than your scenario!
Reel it back in frank, your doing good
 
I meant to say, thanks for pointing the long sleeves out to me. Sometimes one gets relaxed about safety issues and that’s when accidents happen. I will remind my self not to do this, thankyou

You are welcome - glad to help and man so awesome to see you being receptive to constructive criticism. Maybe we are getting somewhere together!!! Love it
 
Most times silence is the most powerful argument and prevents you from being labeled a jackoff
 
A108FB00-60CD-4000-947C-C9C616D609EF.jpeg
Thank you sir for today’s lesson in proper PPE ! I will roll up my sleeves ! Apparently you don’t have much machine-shop experience in regards to the chuck / key ... with a sufficiently robust machine leaving one in the chuck can KILL you or a bystander ... I have a small “hobby lathe” that will blow the breaker long before it wood ever make 3” radius bends in the bones of my arm , in fact it stalls / trips very easily ..... by design
40 years in the trade.
I saw a guy stick the key in the cabinet.
But on a decent size lathe you are down by the end of the work
Not by the chuck where the key ischemic you turn it on.
That’s why I said it USUALLY Does more damage to the machine.
On our machines the chuck is a 2 hand deal.
 
Here’s a picture of the inlet with filter removed after 3 tanks on a 241c I’m building for a coworker ... No fines to be seen anywhere in the carb !!! .. in fact it’s such an upgrade over stock it’s not even funny - not just from the filtration aspect but also from a PERFORMANCE aspect ... like I said previously I ran the SAME Saw in the SAME Wood with the SAME chain and using my set-up got 8% quicker cutting vs the stock filter with the spitback/baffle installed ... more air = more power ... physics 101 my friend E5D2FBC6-29B8-4890-B9BA-C0EFCC83D5C8.jpeg
 
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40 years in the trade.
I saw a guy stick the key in the cabinet.
But on a decent size lathe you are down by the end of the work
Not by the chuck where the key ischemic you turn it on.
That’s why I said it USUALLY Does more damage to the machine.
On our machines the chuck is a 2 hand deal.
Hey man, when I zoom in on that yellow box on that table, it says something but I can’t make out what it says?
 
8B65CCA0-B260-4150-B0CC-BFA3588584D0.jpeg Stock spitback/baffle 1A4B15EB-3701-4EDC-B6C5-33BF4C5D9B88.jpeg spitback / filter ... Again I haven’t run this for a full - season , but I believe the product is a win/win/win ... 1) no fines - sawdust will kill the engine components over time ...2) increased performance via more air allowed into engine 3) extended run times for the faller/sawhand ... I’m sure someone else has crossed this road LONG ago lol ! The whole reason I did this is because I love useing these saws when ported but got frustrated with the stock filter set-up when cutting for hours and hours !F301B3B1-F4D4-4637-B324-7D396127EFCA.jpeg
 
View attachment 695058
40 years in the trade.
I saw a guy stick the key in the cabinet.
But on a decent size lathe you are down by the end of the work
Not by the chuck where the key ischemic you turn it on.
That’s why I said it USUALLY Does more damage to the machine.
On our machines the chuck is a 2 hand deal.
When in trade-school the chuck key was spring loaded such that you had to push it in to engage and it wood pop back up - maybe should be standard equipment eh ? Worked at a shop where a guy was grinding indexable inserts in a Blanchard - grinder ... He was being scolded by the super about production and “forgot” to turn on the magnet ! Talk about friendly fire ! Inserts were flying everywhere along with the ungodly sounds emanating from the machine ... never seen him again at that shop but ran into him at the tavern ! He said he was starting another job the following Monday and gave the super a little “going away “ present ... the super WAS an asshat for sure !
 
When in trade-school the chuck key was spring loaded such that you had to push it in to engage and it wood pop back up - maybe should be standard equipment eh ? Worked at a shop where a guy was grinding indexable inserts in a Blanchard - grinder ... He was being scolded by the super about production and “forgot” to turn on the magnet ! Talk about friendly fire ! Inserts were flying everywhere along with the ungodly sounds emanating from the machine ... never seen him again at that shop but ran into him at the tavern ! He said he was starting another job the following Monday and gave the super a little “going away “ present ... the super WAS an asshat for sure !
Don’t know if someone was trying to kid you but carbide inserts aren’t magnetic enough to put on a Blanchard grinder.
And I have never seen a Blanchard with diamond blocks.
Seen a 300” one........but not for carbide.
Most inserts are ground on 5-axis CNC grinders.
Used to be a member here who did it for a living.
Don’t know.
 
Anyone remember the kids that would remove the intake from their lil Honda and install a cone filter right on the throttle body? Then everyone figured out that the Honda engineers actually knew what they were doing and that the factory intake was VERY carefully tuned for the ecu, and the factory setup proved to be more powerful than coke filters

But the Honda kids prolly hadn’t figured out fourth order harmonics back then it was late 90’s. They did have the fake supercharger stickers tho
 

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Don’t know if someone was trying to kid you but carbide inserts aren’t magnetic enough to put on a Blanchard grinder.
And I have never seen a Blanchard with diamond blocks.
Seen a 300” one........but not for carbide.
Most inserts are ground on 5-axis CNC grinders.
Used to be a member here who did it for a living.
Don’t know.
Really? The company has been doing it that way for 30yrs ! They had a template and the inserts were placed in the openings - this was to grind the thickness ! The cutting edge was done on a cam - grinding machine - I know this for a FACT ! Worked there for about 6mo before I got tired of the bull
 

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