268XP crankshaft install tool

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Swogg

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I searched archives and can't find the answer I need. I have a 268XP I bought new in 1988. Its been an exceptional saw, but this year it is getting a major sentimental overhaul. Over the years I have used non protocol tactics to get things done without the proper tools. But after watching some online videos, I decided it's time to quit cheating and use some proper tools. Husqvarna makes " crankshaft fitment " tools at a very reasonable price. For those that don't know what I'm referring to, this tool pulls the crankshaft through the bearings already installed in the crankcase. Works really slick imo, and is fast.No heating, no freezing. I bought the Husqvarna tool set designated for my saw. Husqvarna part # 502 50 30-04. Problem is, Husqvarna changed crankshaft design somewhere around 93-95. This tool is for the later model crankshaft.The only difference is the flywheel end. The taper is a bit smaller, and the retaining threads dropped from 10 mm to 8mm. So anyone familiar with one of these tools knows that my "fitment" tool set will not work on both crankshafts. The part # of my original crankshaft is 501-52-84-02. It was then changed to part# 503 61 33-71. Don't know it makes any difference, but I'm mostly sure both these crankshafts fit about 5-8 different model saws. The new crankshaft is supposed to fit in the older saws, but naturally requires a different flywheel. I tried that route, but the new flywheels are cheap cast alluminun with a minimum amount of machine operations during production. One difference is the old flywheel had a steel bushing and used a woodruff key, where the new has the key cast into the flywheel. Because they eliminated the steel bushing, the new flywheels are not machined in the hub area, and naturally the hub hits the seal area on crankcase. The dealer cannot get the original crankshaft. All he can get is the later model crankshaft that doesn't work on my saw. I found an AM crankshaft identical in size to my original, but now my " fitting" tool won't work. The right hand thread piece for flywheel end needs to be 10mm 1.0. Not the 8mm my tool is. So that's easy right? Contact Husqvarna technical support and get the part number for the bigger shaft. Problem is they don't have a clue what part number I need. Wasted days on this rebuild thanks to Husqvarna, and isn't getting better. If anyone has been through this and knows the part number of the tool I need, please let me know. Better yet, if anyone knows of a universal set that will work for numerous models or makes, please let me know. I know, I can do it the old fashioned way, but I don't want to. Especially when I know there is a tool that will work. Anybody have this experiencence? I'm open to suggestions. I prefer to do it the easy way which is with the proper tools. I thank Husqvarna for the time, money and grief they have caused. My collection of XP's may change to MS's. Help! By the way, I have a brand new Husqvarna oem crankshaft part number 503 61 33-71 installed and uninstalled once with no run time for sale. Reasonable.IMG_20181016_141756507.jpg IMG_20181016_141756507.jpg
 

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New flywheel. The other pics were old flywheel and crankshaft "fitment " tool. I have been reading threads on this site for quite some time. I know there are folks here that are absolute geniuses. Im just asking you to please share that vast knowledge. Thanks again.
 

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Boil first before frying in olive oil. A little meat tenderizer would help the toughness.
 
This is why the tomatoes grow so good with steel stakes. The iron. Did you take your iron today.?
 
I purchased every figment tool that husky offered even the seal installation tools, gotta have them to play with huskys makes life easier. Used the tools on the 2100’s decades ago.
 
The flywheel side and the ign side. But you still need to heat the bearing bores to 400 degrees I think it is.
 
Right. Flywheel side and ignition side one and the same. I don't heat anything. Press bearing into case and pull crankshaft through bearing with fitment tool. Fast and clean. Especially on saws with nylon race bearings.
 
On my 2100(the older saws with the steel ring that’s the bearing bores they are tight), I notice the heat helps as I crank the assembly tool.
 
Yeah. I don't doubt it. I just try to eliminate the heat and cold where possible. Don't believe I would take a bearing over 250° . I'm just a hobby saw builder, but was an industrial millwright for many years. Heat bearings by type and size for press fit. I just stay away from it when I can. Still have a lot to learn about chainsaws. Good luck on your builds.
 
I don’t heat the bearing I heat the bearing bore in the case. I press the bearings lightly on the crankshaft. I push on the inner race not the outer race. Pushing on the outer race can damage the balls and the radious they ride in.

One must becareful at over 400 degrees the metallurgy changes.
 
Yeah. I don't doubt it. I just try to eliminate the heat and cold where possible. Don't believe I would take a bearing over 250° . I'm just a hobby saw builder, but was an industrial millwright for many years. Heat bearings by type and size for press fit. I just stay away from it when I can. Still have a lot to learn about chainsaws. Good luck on your builds.
Swogg,,why do you keep leaving this in this part of the forum,,and not have a mod move it to chainsaw????
 
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