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372 clone clutch E clip

jrwied

jrwied

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Anyone say whether bar n chain are that important up first start. Stihls never make me do that. I got bran new B/C but haven’t touched it.
 
jrwied

jrwied

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I have a 660 kit about 3 days away from me right now, I am sure I'll be ordering another one next week, do you want me to send you the washer?
R u not using it on the 660? Every kit need wersher upgrade. If u think that’d work I’ll throw it on. Things getting on my nerves.
 
noodlewalker

noodlewalker

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I bought it a buncha special stuff for it already. aside from jug n slug trying to minimize investment.
Oh I will put one on the 660, but I bought two of them on the black Friday sale. One of them is spoken for but the other one is mine. I have another guy who wants me to build a 2nd one for him, so when I order his kit I'll just order some more wershers. It is really no trouble to me whatsoever, pm me your mailing address and I'll pop it in an envelope when it gets here. I'll drill it out for you to. Do you need the clip as well? I just checked and it is in new York right now... Four days tops.
 
jrwied

jrwied

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Riteous lol. Nice jesture. I will. Thanks. I’ll take a spare clip but maybe get some oem ones too after a minute. Like I said got bran new BC for this piece of recycling. Wanna see it rip. Even if it rips itself to pieces.
 
noodlewalker

noodlewalker

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R u not using it on the 660? Every kit need wersher upgrade. If u think that’d work I’ll throw it on. Things getting on my nerves.
Riteous lol. Nice jesture. I will. Thanks.
This is the reason I started this thread... To connect with people and help where I can. Once you get the bugs worked out of that saw you will love it. It is my favorite to build and run. Thankfully I have built and sold 30 of them now, and I own #31, so I have figured out the little issues and avoid them during the build.
 
noodlewalker

noodlewalker

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Riteous lol. Nice jesture. I will. Thanks. I’ll take a spare clip but maybe get some oem ones too after a minute. Like I said got bran new BC for this piece of recycling. Wanna see it rip. Even if it rips itself to pieces.
Just a tip... Run about 2 tanks through it, then tighten your head bolts and the muffler bolts. When you first run them they expand and contract, if they become slightly loose (referring to the muffler bolts) they will cause vibration that you won't feel and the head bolts will loosen. Heat it up and let it cool, then tighten them, you won't have any trouble after that.
There is a teeny tiny gasket that needs to be installed under the bushing on the clutch side crankshaft, the part number starts with 50316---- it doesn't come with the kit, if you don't install it, the saw will be tricky to keep in tune. Also put some sealant on the bolts that hold the oil pump in place, they go straight into the crankcase, just another air leak waiting to happen.
 
noodlewalker

noodlewalker

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Just a tip... Run about 2 tanks through it, then tighten your head bolts and the muffler bolts. When you first run them they expand and contract, if they become slightly loose (referring to the muffler bolts) they will cause vibration that you won't feel and the head bolts will loosen. Heat it up and let it cool, then tighten them, you won't have any trouble after that.
There is a teeny tiny gasket that needs to be installed under the bushing on the clutch side crankshaft, the part number starts with 50316---- it doesn't come with the kit, if you don't install it, the saw will be tricky to keep in tune. Also put some sealant on the bolts that hold the oil pump in place, they go straight into the crankcase, just another air leak waiting to happen.
O ring part number. 503263019
 
noodlewalker

noodlewalker

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This is the reason I started this thread... To connect with people and help where I can. Once you get the bugs worked out of that saw you will love it. It is my favorite to build and run. Thankfully I have built and sold 30 of them now, and I own #31, so I have figured out the little issues and avoid them during the build.
Ooops. You started this one. Lol I was reading through a different thread while talking to you
 
jrwied

jrwied

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Thanks I did lock tight most everything. N always do go back n cinch em. Or at least check em on all my saws. Did do the O ring on clutch side. I’ll double check Oiler too. Dint have mitey vac yet. But think I better get one b4 buying any parts. All my other saws sealed up n ran. But maybe I screwed that 1 up. Good heads up on that though. Thanks I know it’s a pain holding someone’s hand just glad to learn from others first hand experience. Mitey vac probably woulda saved headache.
 
jrwied

jrwied

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So if you’ve built 660 and 372....which is more builder friendly in your opinion? Cuz I’d like a 660 too but I dunno after this ones learning curve.
 
noodlewalker

noodlewalker

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So if you’ve built 660 and 372....which is more builder friendly in your opinion? Cuz I’d like a 660 too but I dunno after this ones learning curve.
Honestly I have a jaded opinion on "user friendly" for those two particular saw kits... I have built 43 660s, 44 and 45 are on their way to me now. I have built 31 of the 372s now as well so I personally can do either in about 2-1/2 hours. I enjoy the 372 a touch more, but they both have their complexities. The brake assembly is tricky on the 660 the first couple of times, putting the case halves together can be tricky for the simple fact that you have to be dead on square to pull it together, plus there is a lip on the crankshaft that will Invert the seal if you are not careful. Whereas the 372 can be confusing, if you put it together in the wrong order. The cylinder has to be done pretty much last when assembling the carcass. To answer the question.. the 372 probably is the "simpler" one of the two, but the 660 is not "hard" by any means.
 
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