394 xp fuel problem

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Woody Longbranch

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I have or had an excellent running Husqvarna 394xp. Unfortunately the little tiny screw that holds the choke baffle on the shaft came loose when the motor was off. and when I tried to start the chainsaw it fell down into the case but it got caught ( between the flywheel and the case) before it started. When I looked real close I could see the little brass baffle was loose in the carburetor and the screw that would normally hold it on is missing from it and the chainsaw wouldn't pull over with the pull start.
I took the chainsaw apart got the little screw out and I put everything back together with a new screw with loctite and filed the baffle flat. After reassembly the chainsaw will only run when I add gas directly into the carburetor it will not suck gas out of the fuel tank.
I must have clogged something. I used the base gasket over but was careful to put it right back in the same position that it started in same with the 2 carburetor gaskets one on either side of the carburetor .

Where is the impulse line? where does the impulse circuit originate to operate the diaphragm to suck the gas out of the gas tank into the carburetor on a 394xp
thank you for your help
 

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New scrolls and filed baffle... I'm completely lost here. I'm assuming typo for new screw, but filing the baffle flat?...
I went back and corrected the spelling in the grandma you look at the picture you can see the little tiny screw that holds the baffle the choke baffle on the shaft came loose and it was jammed in the case it's already assembled and it's not sucking any fuel now
yes I filed the defects off the brass baffle so it would lay flat on the shaft the flat side of the shaft where it screws on
 
I bet the gasket isn't in correctly and the impulse hole is blocked
I think you're right thank you cuz I go back I think about it and I kind of wasn't very slick when I get the cylinder down on the base remove the gasket around quite a bit so I must have misaligned it thank you
 
I 2nd that

Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk
When I went back and I thought about it that's the weak link I have the base gasket moving all around as I tried to settle the cylinder out on the base and I didn't have a new gasket so there's a port right there on the edge of the cylinder and it sucks air up into the adapter for the carburetor and that's where the impulse circuit begins I'm going to get a new base gasket and start over
 
When I went back and I thought about it that's the weak link I have the base gasket moving all around as I tried to settle the cylinder out on the base and I didn't have a new gasket so there's a port right there on the edge of the cylinder and it sucks air up into the adapter for the carburetor and that's where the impulse circuit begins I'm going to get a new base gasket and start over
Let us know how you make out

Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk
 
I’m sorry but I’m having trouble following your post.
First...... are you talking about the screw that holds the choke butterfly to the shaft? If so... how did that screw come out of the intake/carb and fall down to the flywheel?

Next- you then mention a base gasket. Did you only mess with carb/intake or did you pull the jug off the saw?

Would like to help you out.... but it may be easier with some clarification as to the steps taken when you tried to fix the original problem.

In regards to impulse line- 394 doesn’t have one. It uses the carb block and impulse “hole” if you will. So make sure the the impulse “hole” is clear all the way from carb to the crank case.
 
I’m sorry but I’m having trouble following your post.
First...... are you talking about the screw that holds the choke butterfly to the shaft? If so... how did that screw come out of the intake/carb and fall down to the flywheel?

Next- you then mention a base gasket. Did you only mess with carb/intake or did you pull the jug off the saw?

Would like to help you out.... but it may be easier with some clarification as to the steps taken when you tried to fix the original problem.

In regards to impulse line- 394 doesn’t have one. It uses the carb block and impulse “hole” if you will. So make sure the the impulse “hole” is clear all the way from carb to the crank case.
20190116_105017.jpg 20190116_110822.jpg
I’m sorry but I’m having trouble following your post.
First...... are you talking about the screw that holds the choke butterfly to the shaft? If so... how did that screw come out of the intake/carb and fall down to the flywheel?

Next- you then mention a base gasket. Did you only mess with carb/intake or did you pull the jug off the saw?

Would like to help you out.... but it may be easier with some clarification as to the steps taken when you tried to fix the original problem.

In regards to impulse line- 394 doesn’t have one. It uses the carb block and impulse “hole” if you will. So make sure the the impulse “hole” is clear all the way from carb to the crank case.
The chainsaw stalled when it was upside down when the big fallen tree rolled over and it pulled the saw out of my hand. So the 394 was pinched in the fallen tree and I got another saw two made a couple of cops until I could get the 394 out off fallen tree with another chainsaw when it hit the ground it stalled and when I went to restart it the pull cord broke I think what it was stuck upside down that little screw hydrated out and then when the chainsaw fell to the ground it fell down through the throat of the carburetor and it got caught with a picture shows it in the motor just stopped no rotations at all could you can see the scarf is 1/32 or 160 for the one 128th of a revolution I completely took the saw apart to get that little screw up and the Butterfly had a couple of little divots in it probably from vibrating loose for a few seconds after the screw backed out I think the gasket moved cuz that's all I had the thing running with dripping gas in the carburetor just.wont suck its own gas
 
So my update is that I spent the single-digit degree day driving around to all the local supposed husky repair shops and none of them had a base gasket in stock so I ordered the base gasket the two small gaskets on either side of the adapter on the carburetor and the sealing collar and a spirit air filter for $37 including shipping from Partstree.
I didn't realize that the sealing collar was a sealing collar. I thought it was just a support. And I actually didn't reinstall it cuz it was mutilated into three or four or five disintegrated pieces, so that might be why I'm not sucking any fuel. But while I have in apart d I am going to replace the base gasket and the other paper gaskets and the sealing collar.
Unit price
HUS 503524401SEAL COLLAR1$4.95
HUS 503447201AIR FILTER NYLON1$13.94
HUS 503465801GASKET1$2.37
HUS 503465701GASKET1$2.67
HUS 503465601GASKET1$3.11

As an alternative method has anybody got any experience in using the aftermarket cylinder kit that provides an Impulse hose and a template for drilling a hole in the carburetor.
I don't want to go that route because my cylinder and piston are in very good condition but I'm just curious about that upgrade.
And thank you guys for taking the time to respond and pointing out that that's where the impulse originated from I just hadn't had that style chainsaw part of more familiar with the Stihl with the little hose.
 
So my update is that I spent the single-digit degree day driving around to all the local supposed husky repair shops and none of them had a base gasket in stock so I ordered the base gasket the two small gaskets on either side of the adapter on the carburetor and the sealing collar and a spirit air filter for $37 including shipping from Partstree.
I didn't realize that the sealing collar was a sealing collar. I thought it was just a support. And I actually didn't reinstall it cuz it was mutilated into three or four or five disintegrated pieces, so that might be why I'm not sucking any fuel. But while I have in apart d I am going to replace the base gasket and the other paper gaskets and the sealing collar.
Unit price
HUS 503524401SEAL COLLAR1$4.95
HUS 503447201AIR FILTER NYLON1$13.94
HUS 503465801GASKET1$2.37
HUS 503465701GASKET1$2.67
HUS 503465601GASKET1$3.11

As an alternative method has anybody got any experience in using the aftermarket cylinder kit that provides an Impulse hose and a template for drilling a hole in the carburetor.
I don't want to go that route because my cylinder and piston are in very good condition but I'm just curious about that upgrade.
And thank you guys for taking the time to respond and pointing out that that's where the impulse originated from I just hadn't had that style chainsaw part of more familiar with the Stihl with the little hose.
I didn't look up your part numbers, but what they're calling a seal collar is just a rubber block that seals off the carburetor housing from the cylinder housing. It keeps sawdust from getting to the carburetor and maintains air flow through the cylinder fins. The other aftermarket cylinder kit you mentioned is a 395xp update kit. If your cylinder and piston are in good shape I'd stay the road you're on and try to get your impulse passage opened up, if that's what the problem is
 
I didn't look up your part numbers, but what they're calling a seal collar is just a rubber block that seals off the carburetor housing from the cylinder housing. It keeps sawdust from getting to the carburetor and maintains air flow through the cylinder fins. The other aftermarket cylinder kit you mentioned is a 395xp update kit. If your cylinder and piston are in good shape I'd stay the road you're on and try to get your impulse passage opened up, if that's what the problem is

What app are you using for a translator?...;)
 
I didn't look up your part numbers, but what they're calling a seal collar is just a rubber block that seals off the carburetor housing from the cylinder housing. It keeps sawdust from getting to the carburetor and maintains air flow through the cylinder fins. The other aftermarket cylinder kit you mentioned is a 395xp update kit. If your cylinder and piston are in good shape I'd stay the road you're on and try to get your impulse passage opened up, if that's what the problem is
Huskil
Ya lo and behold the seal collar is just a block to separate the two housings
doesn't really seal anything that has anything to do with the impulse line
I went out to the porch picked up the saw yesterday afternoon pushed in the decompression button pull it once or twice it popped and pulled it again it started right up and ran like a champ.
So it might have just been flooded from the initial reassembly with carburetor cleaner or a particle of sawdust.
seems to be running good I'm going to check it again in a few minutes when I won't disturb the neighbors.
that order of parts including sealing collar, gaskets, and new air cleaner for next time.

Thank you for explanation of sealing block and conversion kit.
Dave
I changed the coil my old 390 and that seemed to work well now the next big project is an old 044 with a hole right in the top of the piston.
I'm seriously considering buying a OEM piston and cylinder I'm going to most likely avoid the Hutzel kit
Thanku
 
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