4" PVC sprung leak

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hardy steve

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Somewhere my 4" PVC under ground started leaking.Im getting ready to dig up and use the black core gated pipe.What would be best way to attach PVC to black flex pipe?Fern co's?Then cover with concrete?I don't want to mess with the PVC thru basement wall or thru pad at stove.
 
If you have a leak I'd find where the water is coming from first. You really shouldn't get any water inside from your water lines.
 
you want to replace pvc with the cheap black flexible crap that home depot and lowes carry? that stuff is garbage.

If you need something stronger/better than white pvc, use SDR PVC pipe (around here it's green). it's sewer line rated and you can get it in perforated also.
 
Don't waste your time or money on the black flex. If you truly have water coming in your pvc casing now...you won't solve the issue with the black stuff. Find out where it is coming in and replace it with sdr35 or scedule 40. Glue adaptors and/or gasketed repair sleeves are available.
 
Id go with schedule 40. SDR 35, or even SDR 26 too actually, needs a gravel envelope around the pipe. SDR 35 or 26 will not stand the weight of the ground without a gravel envelope around the pipe.
 
I will dig up and cut and replace all fittings.Since I don't know which one is leaking,but there is one. I will use fern cos at wall and furnace slab.I also glue fern cos.
 
Block the ends off. Put 1lb. of air pressure in and spray the fittings with some soapy water. That will show you the leak. Also there has to be water present for it to get in. I would look where there is water present in the ditch. I never heard of using glue on a fernco fitting. They are not the best alternative and will rot over time. Use a gasketed, sliding repair coupling...After beveling each end of the pipe, lube it up and slide the coupler on one of the pipes until flush. Lay the pipe in then slide the coupler half way back onto the other pipe.
 
Block the ends off. Put 1lb. of air pressure in and spray the fittings with some soapy water. That will show you the leak. Also there has to be water present for it to get in. I would look where there is water present in the ditch. I never heard of using glue on a fernco fitting. They are not the best alternative and will rot over time. Use a gasketed, sliding repair coupling...After beveling each end of the pipe, lube it up and slide the coupler on one of the pipes until flush. Lay the pipe in then slide the coupler half way back onto the other pipe.

+1 on the pressure test and no glue on ferncos.I have dug up pipes repaired with ferncos many years ago, never seen any "rot". Hold up pretty well if installed and buried correctly, which quite often, they are not. They're not a bad solution most of the time. IMO, may be the cat's PJs here.
 
No glue on Ferncos, they do not rot, they will last if installed properly. PVC does not need gravel around the pipe, it is a rigid pipe so no big rocks on it but any normal backfill is fine.
 
No glue on Ferncos, they do not rot, they will last if installed properly. PVC does not need gravel around the pipe, it is a rigid pipe so no big rocks on it but any normal backfill is fine.

Depends on the PVC. SDR 35 and SDR 26 is a pvc sewer pipe that has to have a gravel envelope around it or you'll be fixing it again before long. Most pressure rated pipe does not need gravel,,,, like SCH 40, class 150,200,or 250, c200 or c900, any HDPE DR17 and down and many more.

Fernco's are fine. They dont need glue. Even the pickiest utility municipalities still let ya use ferncos on gravity sewer( no pressure) pipe. Ive used them before and pressure tested them to 5psi with air and with no problem, but they arent designed for pressure use. They should have stsinless steel bands.
 
Depends on the PVC. SDR 35 and SDR 26 is a pvc sewer pipe that has to have a gravel envelope around it or you'll be fixing it again before long.


Far too general. I very much disagree, SDR35 is just fine without gravel backfill. We do it all the time as long as you have enough cover and your backfill is not something awful like rip-rap. Think about it, gravel backfill is very specific, don't you think sand would work as well. Suitable native?
 
Far too general. I very much disagree, SDR35 is just fine without gravel backfill. We do it all the time as long as you have enough cover and your backfill is not something awful like rip-rap. Think about it, gravel backfill is very specific, don't you think sand would work as well. Suitable native?

A lot of specs I have seen call for either aggregate or sand bedding and backfil envelope.

I second the calls to use SDR-35 at a minimum.

I usually encase any ferncos in concrete. Might be overkill but this way if things shift you're not relying on the rubber to hold them up.
 
Far too general. I very much disagree, SDR35 is just fine without gravel backfill. We do it all the time as long as you have enough cover and your backfill is not something awful like rip-rap. Think about it, gravel backfill is very specific, don't you think sand would work as well. Suitable native?

Guess we'll just have to agree to disagree then :laugh: . I've buried several miles of SDR 35 and done more than a few repairs and Ill tell ya it needs a gravel envelope around it or it'll be squashed flatter than hell one day. Maybe not if it's fairly shallow and no traffic is running across the ditch line, but I still wouldn't use it without stone....far to many better options than that. Im sure sand would probably work just as well.

Most places here is requiring 6'' stone under and 12'' stone over SDR 35 pipe now. 4'' and 6'' worked just fine for years but I guess 6''and 12'' is the new standard....thats in dirt areas. Under pavement or gravel area and it's 100% stone fill. Thats how we're required to do it and it works well.

A few SDR 35 pics......
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photobucket-4099-1348185083659_zpse78205af.jpg


photobucket-27448-1348185054755_zpsbf68343c.jpg


photobucket-16576-1348185026816_zps190c1b26.jpg


photobucket-27470-1348184972347_zpsfb3c287f.jpg
 
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Looks great and that's how we do sewer mains too. Bedding is crushed rock always, and 100% crushed rock backfill in the ROW. Side sewers and backyard stuff, not so much.
 
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