42” light weight (D009)

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Anyone make a lightweight 42” bar.

Looking for:
D009 mount
.063
3/8

Dont need one right now. Was just looking around out of curiosity. Cannon makes the longest lightweight i can find in that setup at 36”.

Oregon Power Cut seems to have a reasonable weight on it at 6.9Lbs. The cannon was WAY heavier than that.

I was trying to find a Tsumura or a Sugihara in a light weigh at that length but found nothing.

I mean, i get it. Really long bars NEED to be strong. But dang, all the lightweight bars iv seen are very strong. Wouldn’t in make MORE sense make the long bars “light weight” bars?

Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
I have a 36” TsuMura lite but I think that’s the longest they make. Just got a 42” but it’s not a lite, it’s an Archer.
 
The bar mount D009 is a large husky mount. The H009 fits husky too. Did you try searching eBay for a d009/H009 bar? I found a d009/.063” 42” bar there. I was thinking about drilling many 5/16” holes in it. Then chamfer both sides.

Look for a b&c combo that’s affordable with free ship or low cost shipping.

No light weight but,,,,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-...-8-FULL-SKIP-TOOTH-CHISEL-CHAIN-/141089997376
 
The bar mount D009 is a large husky mount. The H009 fits husky too. Did you try searching eBay for a d009/H009 bar? I found a d009/.063” 42” bar there. I was thinking about drilling many 5/16” holes in it. Then chamfer both sides.

Look for a b&c combo that’s affordable with free ship or low cost shipping.

No light weight but,,,,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-...-8-FULL-SKIP-TOOTH-CHISEL-CHAIN-/141089997376

Bill,

I can find PLENTY of them for sale. That is not a problem.

“Lightweight” was my question if you read the post.[emoji6][emoji1303][emoji41]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
I looked on the TsuMura site and didn’t see a lite over 36”.

Ok,

I guess we found the same info then. Thank you.

May try out an idea on a cheaper Forester bar. Get a 42” and throw it up on the laser table, cut a series of slots in it in a staggered pattern like a Tsumara has (just smaller maybe)


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
I was in contact with the Sugi rep late last year trying to find a .404 bar tip.
He mention some new bars coming.
If you want his email send me a pm.
Nice guys... got me to one of his distributors who had what I needed.

Sugi bars are nice gear. ( I have a 36”)
Not the lightest of lightweight but seem to be a great compromise between strength and weight.
 
Ok,

I guess we found the same info then. Thank you.

May try out an idea on a cheaper Forester bar. Get a 42” and throw it up on the laser table, cut a series of slots in it in a staggered pattern like a Tsumara has (just smaller maybe)


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
I know this has been discussed a few times.

Did folks figure out what to fill the holes with? Sounds as though most substances are not strong yet flexible enough to withstand the rigors of being part of a chainsaw bar.
 
I know this has been discussed a few times.

Did folks figure out what to fill the holes with? Sounds as though most substances are not strong yet flexible enough to withstand the rigors of being part of a chainsaw bar.

I bet Lexan, makrolon or a similar plastic would do it. The problem is the manufacturer tapers the slots so the plastic slugs stay it. That would be a lot of work.

Id leave the slots empty


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
I bet Lexan, makrolon or a similar plastic would do it. The problem is the manufacturer tapers the slots so the plastic slugs stay it. That would be a lot of work.

Id leave the slots empty


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
Somewhere on here I read that open slots will pack with sawdust and cause the bar to bind. Not sure if that happens or not?
 
I know this has been discussed a few times.

Did folks figure out what to fill the holes with? Sounds as though most substances are not strong yet flexible enough to withstand the rigors of being part of a chainsaw bar.
G2 Epoxy and a load of Microspheres to give it some extra mass would do it.
That epoxy is bomber. I've used it for bonding teak to aluminum for sailboat trim parts.

My understanding is that it was developed for laying up wooden Airplane propellers and wings.
It stays flexible but won't let go of anything.
Super toxic stuff... need a freshair breather even in outdoor space.
 
tsumurainserts-jpg.717770
 
If I had to guess, a 42" bar, especially a lightweight one, and even more especially a homemade lightweight one would be awfully darned noodly. Can't get 'er done with a 36" huh?
 
If I had to guess, a 42" bar, especially a lightweight one, and even more especially a homemade lightweight one would be awfully darned noodly. Can't get 'er done with a 36" huh?

Like i said.

Don’t need one. Just looking around out of curiosity.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
How come the solid bars don’t come drilled to lighten them? Small 5/16” holes evenly spaced across the bar.

How about a laminated bar that has the solid laminated center milled out? Or shapes cut like bridge steel designs inside and both outside rails can be spot welded in key hole designs in certain areas were no holes inside the middle plate are.

Sorry I left out in my earlier post about watching ebay for light weight bars, A moment of brain fade. My fault.
 
A standard weight 42" bar has a lot of flop when the saw is laid over on its side. Its hard to start a straight cut on a lumpy tree. I think a lightweight bar would be worse, maybe barely usable.
 
If you need a 42" bar, weight should not be your concern as that is a serious length that needs to be very rigid. Quality and bar belly diameter should've your first concerns if you truly need this length or longer. Plenty of our old PNW loggers carried that much length and longer and weight was not their first concern at all, if at all. The wood holds the weight.
 
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