50" bar recommendations?

[pshupe]

I'm just purchasing a Stihl MS 880 and I am getting it with the 47" hard nosed bar to use with my 48" Alaskan Sawmill. The hard nose is the only option at that length or longer and it is relatively inexpensive if you buy it with the saw. I would like some recommendations on a sprocket tip 50" just to have in my back pocket. I have heard the hard nose bars aren't that great for this application. I think I will be drilling the bar on both sides for an auxillary oiler to try and lubricate as much as possible. Any tips or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Regards Peter.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

Not a lot of manufacturers at that length. Cannon, obviously. Maybe Forester, I think GB makes them too, but I'm not sure about the big Stihl mount or where they can be bought.

 

[pshupe]

Thanks - Yeah I'm getting that sense. Even the websites aren't showing the bars they have / sell. Can barely find any bars that would fit my saw. It's a little strange that Granberg is selling Cannon bars but up to 20"?? Who is using an alaskan saw mill with a 20" bar? They have Granberg bars but top out at 36" and no 404 bars but they sell 48", 52", and 60" Alaskan saw mills. Maybe the expect everyone over 36" to go with a double ended bar?

As I said I'll probably go with the 47" hard nose. I'm tempted to go 60" because it is $20 more for that bar over the 47" when bought with the saw. I'd need another mill and the chains would be that much more etc etc etc. Thanks for the reply.

Cheers Peter.

 

[tater_51]

Looking for a recommendation for a 42" bar for a 395XP, using a 36" Oregon bar but have a couple bigger trees to slab. Can I go bigger than 42'' on a stock 395? Do I need an external oiler?

 

[Husky Man]

What ever the "Listed size of your mill is, add about 6" of bar length to get the full capacity of your mill, which will typically be about 3-4" LESS than the Mill's "Listed Size"

The Listed size of a Mill is the overall length of the Mills rails, NOT it's capacity. My 36" Granberg mill, with the end brackets at the extreme ends of the mill frame, have 33.5" between the inside faces of the bar clamps. To get the maximum capacity out of your mill, you will need approximately 6" more Bar, than the listed size of your mill.

A 395XP should oil a 42" or 44" bar, after that an Auxiliary oiler is a Good idea

GB produces the Husqvarna Branded bars 44" and longer.

GB offers 44",50", 60" and 72", but unfortunately, the 50" is more rare than an Honest Democrat. To get a 50" GB, you will have to order from GB directly, and they're in Australia. I have the 44", 60", and 72" GB bars, and was trying to find the 50", but I haven't had any luck in finding one for sale in the States

The Husqvarna part #'s for the GB bars in .404/.063 are HT343-128 for the 44", HT343-140 for the 50", HT343-172 for the 60', and HT343-190 for the 72"


Doug

 

[pshupe]

Stihl only makes a hard nose bar above 41" but they are very inexpensive when buying with a new saw. I will buy the 47" hard nose bar with the saw. The upcharge from the standard 24" bar is less than $50. I didn't have any luck finding a 50" GB or any other type for that matter, that I could actually purchase. So I'd say they are even more rare than you mention. Maybe even as rare as an Honest Republican! I'm in Canada and Cannon seems to have the 50" bar with sprocket tip but they are about Can$500.

I'm gonna stick with the 48" range for now as my Alaskan saw mill is 48" and do not want to buy a new mill, right now. If it goes well and I find I need larger I will buy then. I will be using an auxillary oiler and probably just DIY something. I like the idea of drilling the bar and using an injector bolt to get the oil into the groove but may just try the "trickle on the bar" method first. I'm going to try Canola oil first.

I would like some more advice still from people who are using an Alaskan saw mill at or above that length bar. Mainly regarding anything to look out for when getting into these large lengths. Thanks a lot for the tips and replies all.

Regards Peter.

 

[Moparmyway]

I'm just purchasing a Stihl MS 880 and I am getting it with the 47" hard nosed bar to use with my 48" Alaskan Sawmill. I think I will be drilling the bar on both sides for an auxillary oiler to try and lubricate as much as possible. Any tips or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

You can NOT over oil the chain, do whatever you can to get an auxillary oiler putting oil on the far end

Can I go bigger than 42'' on a stock 395? Do I need an external oiler?

IMHO, even a 20" setup can benefit from an auxillary oiler, you just can NOT beat getting oil where its needed

I would like some more advice still from people who are using an Alaskan saw mill at or above that length bar. Mainly regarding anything to look out for when getting into these large lengths.

I run a 48" Alaskan with a 50" Cannon (live roller tip).
Whatever you can do to get oil at the tip, so it's NOT flung off and stays where it's needed is worth it's weight in gold !

 

[pshupe]

You can NOT over oil the chain, do whatever you can to get an auxillary oiler putting oil on the far end


IMHO, even a 20" setup can benefit from an auxillary oiler, you just can NOT beat getting oil where its needed



I run a 48" Alaskan with a 50" Cannon (live roller tip).
Whatever you can do to get oil at the tip, so it's NOT flung off and stays where it's needed is worth it's weight in gold !
View attachment 835003

So it seems like oil on the tip is important? LOL Wow - thanks for this. What do you think of drilling the bar and using an injector bolt to get the oil in the slot? I know it will affect cutting width especially on a sprocket nose. Also what do you use for the oil for the end of the bar? Thanks for the quick response.

Cheers Peter.

PS - great pic BTW. Do you have one of the whole setup? I've got to rig up a DIY bar end oiler. As I said I may just do something like that system until I get the parts for a "in slot" oiling system.

 

[Moparmyway]

1. So it seems like oil on the tip is important?
2. What do you think of drilling the bar and using an injector bolt to get the oil in the slot?
3. I know it will affect cutting width especially on a sprocket nose.
4. Also what do you use for the oil for the end of the bar?
5. PS - great pic BTW. Do you have one of the whole setup?

1. Getting oil in the proper place (of the tip) is important, putting it in the wrong place, and your chain will sling it off, stretch the chain, and I believe dull your cutters faster
2. I think the restriction will limit the oiling ability, might not be crucial on a smaller setup, but that restriction on a longer setup might not allow enough oil to get where it needs to
3. Not if its removable
4. Same oil that I use in the saws oil tank
5.Picture #2 is the first version with some pigtails in the line. V2 (picture #3) is just a straight copper tube and worked WAY better. It got more oil to the tip and in the right spot. Oil MUST get to the chain AFTER it goes around the tip !

 

[rarefish383]

I ran 40 plus year old Homelite hard nose bars on my Super 1050. It showed no sign of wear. Bought a new 660 to give the old Homelite a rest. In the 5-6 years I've had the Stihl, it shows way more sign of wear than my old bars. Don't know why, just saying.

 

[Pagie]

I have a 42 inch Granberg bar with a solid tip. It is a Titanium bar. It works fine when I dribble oil from a pipe onto the bar near the tip. I have to use it to cut a large stump for a friend soon. It wont be getting extra oil while off the mill.

 

[pshupe]

Thanks for the posts. I'll definitely be giving the 47" hard nose a try. I need that length bar and it is very inexpensive when purchasing with the power head. I just looked at the price for the 41" roller tip and it is a reasonable price. I might buy that as I already have a 36" on my 660. I'll try and use the right length bar for the size of log I am cutting. That should dramatically reduce my use of the 47" bar but still will give it a good workout and I will see how it holds up vs the slightly shorter 41".

Cheers Peter

 

[Moparmyway]

I would definately try oiling that 47" bar before purchasing anything else.
Like Pagie said, let it just pool up and get drawn in.
You could also try drilling a few holes after the chain rounds the tip and letting the oil drip into them, might do pretty good too.

 

[pshupe]

I would definately try oiling that 47" bar before purchasing anything else.
Like Pagie said, let it just pool up and get drawn in.
You could also try drilling a few holes after the chain rounds the tip and letting the oil drip into them, might do pretty good too.

Thanks- yeah that's the plan. It just doesn't make sense to buy an aftermarket bar for $500 when it's probably only a $50 upcharge for that bar when buying the saw head. I have purchased some bolts, a reservoir and some fittings. I'm going to try and duplicate the auxillary oiler that granberg sells to get the oil right into the bar channel. I'll post some pics when I do that.

Cheers Peter.

 

[pshupe]

Just picked up my new saw. There was a bit of an issue with the dealer I originally ordered from. He said it would take 1 week to get the saw, so I booked holidays 2 weeks out. I waited until the end of last week, which is when he said it would be in. Then I called him. He said they were on back order and wouldn't be in until July sometime. I knew another place had one in stock so I cancelled that order and bought the one at the other place. I feel bad about cancelling as it's a mom and pop shop and wanted to support the local small business but I need the saw for my vacation week. I'll still get a 24" bar and all the rip chains from him, which should be in day after tomorrow.

I brought the saw home tonight and took a picture with my daughter holding it. She is pretty petite, so thought it would be a good picture.


I'll pick up the other bar and chains in a couple of days. I will adjust my Alaskan sawmill and try and set up the auxillary oiler as well.

Cheers Peter.

PS - it ended up being on sale even more. Something about an event on the weekend. Stihl Days or something. The saw with 47" bar was Can$1975. They even filed the full comp cross cut chain to 10 degrees for a rip for me for free.

 

[Moparmyway]

I'd drill holes in that bar faster than you could spit on it.
Sounds like you just about got that bar for free ?
Watch out, she looks like she might actually be enjoying that chainsaw, she might want her own soon.

 

[pshupe]

I'd drill holes in that bar faster than you could spit on it.
Sounds like you just about got that bar for free ?
Watch out, she looks like she might actually be enjoying that chainsaw, she might want her own soon.

Yes - I will be spending some time on the auxillary oiler soon. I've got holidays next week and will be up at my parent's place. I still have to find a few parts but I will drill both sides of the bar very close to the tip. I've got a reservoir, some clear tubing, and a couple of fittings for the reservoir. Still need to find a couple of small shut off valves and I should be good to go.

Generally my daughter isn't that interested in milling but she is a competitive swimmer so she likes showing her strength. I was surprised she was able to hold it actually. She was even holding it out in front of her because it was oiled up pretty good from the dealer and she didn't want it to touch her. ;-)

The price was great and might look at the 41" Rollomatic and keep the 47" for just when I need it. As I said I have a 660 with a 36" bar. I am contemplating keeping it and using it for smaller stuff but frankly I may get rid of it and just buy some smaller bars and chains for the big saw. I think I will be liking the power of the new beast.

Cheers Peter

 

[pshupe]

So I spent some time adding an auxillary oiler to my alaskan saw mill and drilling that 47" solid nose bar this week. I was going to purchase the Granberg auxillary oiler but thought I could just get some parts and do it myself. The logosol I bought came with a reservoir for a coolant, so I thought I would use that. I searched around for injector bolts but decided to see if I could just make a few myself.

First thing I did was try and drill down the center of a 5/16" bolt. I was a little skeptical but decided to give it a try. I purchased a machinist vice from Amazon and had it next day delivered. It worked out pretty well.


I bought some 5/16" ID hose and grabbed my reservior. I also bought some ball valves. I would have like to find something smaller and possibly even one for the bottom of the reservoir but these seemed to work OK.


Laid it all out and got some hose clamps


I had a bracket for the reservoir so I just fastened it to the post of my alaskan saw mill. So far so good.


Then on to drilling the bar. I worked out all the math with a little drawing -


marked the center for drilling -


Drilled a pilot hole and then larger holes on the drill press. I had to prop up the bar and clamp to my drill press.


And added the bolts with lock washers. I marked after I set them in the holes with a hack saw through the slot and then drilled and filed flush.




I think it should work well. I did not have time to test it out.

Regards Peter.

 

[JAXCAVATOR0Z]

3120xp with 36 inch GB. i just fixed and old oil bottle to post and dribble oil on chain after it rounds the nose. May not be even needed if oiler always worked on saw so its good insurance. i have to fix when i can

 

[pshupe]

Very nice. I've got a 36" I run on my 660 and have never used extra oiler. I like your design and specifically the bracket on the nose guard.

Cheers Peter.