562xp Hesitation Question

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Does the 562 have a hidden L needle like the 550 does?


All of the new ones do. If it came with the flippy caps, you can be sure you've got the magic screw in there.

The OP's problem could most easily be solved by plugging the saw into the diagnostic tool and hitting the reset on the fuel settings. (do NOT hit the master reset) There is an idle setting in the AT, and if this issue only rears it's head after idling for a while, then this is where you should be looking. If the tank vent was at fault, then you'd more likely be having an issue when cutting, not idling.
 
That sounds like the culprit. Once it's warm and I'm using it, if I'm constantly on and off of the throttle, it's fine. If it idles for more than about 5 seconds, then it stumbles on the next throttle application, until it finally cleans up an takes off. I guess it will be going back.
 
All of the new ones do. If it came with the flippy caps, you can be sure you've got the magic screw in there.

The OP's problem could most easily be solved by plugging the saw into the diagnostic tool and hitting the reset on the fuel settings. (do NOT hit the master reset) There is an idle setting in the AT, and if this issue only rears it's head after idling for a while, then this is where you should be looking. If the tank vent was at fault, then you'd more likely be having an issue when cutting, not idling.

That sounds like the right plan for the new technology, use a little technology, not a screwdriver. At least try it first. I am having trouble finding a dealer close by that understands this.
 
That sounds like the right plan for the new technology, use a little technology, not a screwdriver. At least try it first. I am having trouble finding a dealer close by that understands this.

Its just basic troubleshooting, that if anything helps direct the dealer to zero in on what wrong. Yet when they encounter an error code that states something as simple as an air leak, they fail to check for one and continue to hunt for other demons vesus crossing it off the list systematically. There are many professionals out there that take pride work, keep looking you will find one. The search sometimes is as hard as finding an M-Tronic saw up here, something scary bout them Gen 1 saws I guess.
 
Its just basic troubleshooting, that if anything helps direct the dealer to zero in on what wrong. Yet when they encounter an error code that states something as simple as an air leak, they fail to check for one and continue to hunt for other demons vesus crossing it off the list systematically. There are many professionals out there that take pride work, keep looking you will find one. The search sometimes is as hard as finding an M-Tronic saw up here, something scary bout them Gen 1 saws I guess.

Some are not open minded to the change and helpful compared to you guys on here, but I found one and its worth the drive. Havent needed anything done, but its clearly not going to get worked on locally. Refused to even order me an AT saw. Too bad for them, I bought my 4AT elsewhere :)

thanks for your info as always, be safe - dave
 
It's my understanding that the computer only controls a High speed needle on that system. Anybody know if that is correct?

If so, an off idle problem on the Low speed circuit wouldn't be fixed by running the saw at WOT.

Keep us advised of what is happening. If the problem comes back it may be the tank vent.

What may have happened with the WOT run was the tank pressure was altered by the consumption of fuel.

Perhaps one of those vented green gas caps could be a diagnostic aide at times like this. Simply put on the green cap and see if the problem is fixed.

The Autotune controls one solenoid. Like standard carbs, the low pressure flowing over the main nozzle shifts the fuel draw to the high side. The AT learns to control this transition through the Throttle Position Sensor. Knowing when the pressure changes passages in the range to alter the fuel flow at the solenoid.

Bog at idle can also be caused by a rich condition. To test for this, let the saw idle for three to five minutes. If it loads and blows smoke/unburnt fuel, its rich. Possibly the needle isn't seating proper or the pop off was adjusted to much. The condition this fixes is a lean one. From the factory some of these carbs throttle butterfly is sealed to tight, not letting enough air past. In turn, the AT leans the mixture to attain the proper idle speed. If one is to let more air by, more fuel is necessary to maintain the same idle. The 550/545 Walbro carb has a bypass adjustment screw.

550/545

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All of the new ones do. If it came with the flippy caps, you can be sure you've got the magic screw in there.

The OP's problem could most easily be solved by plugging the saw into the diagnostic tool and hitting the reset on the fuel settings. (do NOT hit the master reset) There is an idle setting in the AT, and if this issue only rears it's head after idling for a while, then this is where you should be looking. If the tank vent was at fault, then you'd more likely be having an issue when cutting, not idling.

Good to know. Haven't seen one yet.
 
Just curious why you are running 40:1? You state that it seems lean, since 40:1 is leaner (less gas per volume) that 50:1 and Husky recommends 50:1 and since it is an auto-tune carb I would think that viscosity would come into play with fuel metering. Your other saws are manually adjustable so the mix ratio can be taken into account. Maybe go to Lowe's and get a can of the premixed 50:1 gas and run a tank thru and see if that changes anything. I haven't had a better saw than the 562XP and thankfully I haven't had any issues yet other than the front of my bashed up because the stupid stock raker (aftermarket on back order from Baileys). Good luck, and hopefully something simple.

I'm running the Husky 95octane 50:1 premix, & mine is doing the exact same thing.
 
I've been having the same problems with hot restart and off idle flat spot since I got mine in May. I can't find a dealer within an hour of me that has the tools and software to reflash the computer, everybody seems to be afraid of them for some reason, I guess it's just like when automobiles first started using ecm's on the engine. Better get used to it, it's on the way for everything with an engine. Thank you EPA.

I just cut the spring on the needle this morning. We'll see what happens after while.
 
I've been having the same problems with hot restart and off idle flat spot since I got mine in May. I can't find a dealer within an hour of me that has the tools and software to reflash the computer, everybody seems to be afraid of them for some reason, I guess it's just like when automobiles first started using ecm's on the engine. Better get used to it, it's on the way for everything with an engine. Thank you EPA.

I just cut the spring on the needle this morning. We'll see what happens after while.
 
dealers should be required to order the tool before they can order the saw
Terry, you hit the nail on the head. Not only order the saw, but whatever the mfg Husky/Stihl etc. they should have a online training module that every tech/owner should be required to take. I have no idea what the AT tool cost, but we paid around 700.00 for the MT box and cables, a cheap investment in the long run.
 
they have the at tool down to a bit over a $100,any can purchase the tool ,even customers. problem being to get the new software to be able to reload or update the saw takes logging in as a dealer to the Husqvarna site.but you can use the tool for diagnosing problems even without the new software updates.
 
Cutting the spring on the metering needle didn't help at all on my saw, still falls flat on it's face when I hit the throttle after it warms up. You're exactly right about dealers should be required to have the tools, software, and training before they can keep their dealer status, just like the automotive industry. I guess that I'm about to start on a search for a dealer within a day's drive that can work on my saw. This is ridiculous, that a manufacturer will put out a piece of equipment that the "certified" dealers can't (won't) work on and the manufacturer doesn't require them to have the ability to service what they sell.
 
when I took on the Husqvarna dealership my sales man mentioned needing the tools to fix autotune which I already hade from being a jonsered dealer.
 
It would sour me on a brand if I had to drive more than an hour to find a dealer to fix my saw. I buy local when I can and don't under stand how a dealer can stay a dealer if he does not have the ability to fix what he sells. This goes to all brands.
 
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