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Base gasket/ cylinder bolts were checked for tightness, no issue.
Fuel line looks ok, its not hard but could be no good I guess. Filter looks new and probably is, my buddy always changes filters on saws he works on.
I made sure the tank was full for testing.
Im beginning to think perhapse this is a carb issue. Maybe a leaky welch plug perhapse??
Fuel line looks ok, its not hard but could be no good I guess. Filter looks new and probably is, my buddy always changes filters on saws he works on.
I made sure the tank was full for testing.
Im beginning to think perhapse this is a carb issue. Maybe a leaky welch plug perhapse??
superwd6
ArboristSite Operative
My 576 xpg auto tune would starve for fuel and quit this past winter and hunt idle a little.gas line looked good but since I’ve replaced it no issues since.
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I think youre on to something there, its gotta be something simple.
The only time my saw seems to go lean is after a cut. If i pull it out of the wood at any time it 4 strokes, it 4 strokes slightly in the cut to.
My buddy who sold me the saw has all the parts to make my saw an auto tune. I may go that route.
The only time my saw seems to go lean is after a cut. If i pull it out of the wood at any time it 4 strokes, it 4 strokes slightly in the cut to.
My buddy who sold me the saw has all the parts to make my saw an auto tune. I may go that route.
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
This can be addictive my new(only cut ten cords since new) 575 is acting up too. First in the cold weather if you let her warm up she ran fine. Now she’s fourstroking I hope it’s just a carb adjustment. It’s been stitting out of gas. My 8 570’s are running fine.
I run these saws at least at 38:1 now.
I run these saws at least at 38:1 now.
Bill Im running 32:1 in all my saws as of late. Not sure if it helps but it makes me feel better.
I've gotten the husky bug as of late, it all started with my 365, then my 562 (incredible saw) and now this 576.
Hoping to get this saw sorted out as I picked it up to be my main big felling amd blocking saw.
Guess I could use one of my other saws. The smoothness and power of the 576 has spoiled me. Makes my other saws feel buzzy amd slow..
I've gotten the husky bug as of late, it all started with my 365, then my 562 (incredible saw) and now this 576.
Hoping to get this saw sorted out as I picked it up to be my main big felling amd blocking saw.
Guess I could use one of my other saws. The smoothness and power of the 576 has spoiled me. Makes my other saws feel buzzy amd slow..
I got it solved!!!
So after weeks of trying this and that I think i have my problem solved.
Was going through old arboristsite 576 threads an read a post about some 576 zama carbs having metering levers that were set too low out of the box.
This carb was brand new like 6 months ago so I figured I better take the carb off and measure the height.
The height was slightly too low. High enough for the saw to run and cut under normal loads but enough out of spec that the saw as going lean once it got hot is my guessing.
So I raised the level to the max spec heigh and put the saw back together.
I also reset the carb to factory specs as per the zama manual.
Saw fired up right away amd idled nicely like normal. I let it get nice and hot and went to block up some wood. It was a bit lazy at first but after some careful H and L adjustments and some tweaks to the idle the saw now runs pretty good and goes back to idle after every cut.
The idle does change ever so slightly now when the saw is on its side but nothing like before. I'm guessing this is how these saws run.
I'm super happy I got this one beat!!
So after weeks of trying this and that I think i have my problem solved.
Was going through old arboristsite 576 threads an read a post about some 576 zama carbs having metering levers that were set too low out of the box.
This carb was brand new like 6 months ago so I figured I better take the carb off and measure the height.
The height was slightly too low. High enough for the saw to run and cut under normal loads but enough out of spec that the saw as going lean once it got hot is my guessing.
So I raised the level to the max spec heigh and put the saw back together.
I also reset the carb to factory specs as per the zama manual.
Saw fired up right away amd idled nicely like normal. I let it get nice and hot and went to block up some wood. It was a bit lazy at first but after some careful H and L adjustments and some tweaks to the idle the saw now runs pretty good and goes back to idle after every cut.
The idle does change ever so slightly now when the saw is on its side but nothing like before. I'm guessing this is how these saws run.
I'm super happy I got this one beat!!
And it's a G.....heated handles. [emoji106]
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Its funny but I wasn't interested in a 576xp at all when the opportunity presented itself to get one.
Then I ran my friends. Im a sheetmetal worker so my hands are pretty beat up, lots of arthritis and carpal tunnel in both of them.
I'm a big fella at 6'2" 265lbs so weight isnt really an issue for me, vibration has become my main complaint as I get older.
The smoothness of these 5 series saws is impressive to say the least. And the 576 has really good power for a stock saw.
With this saw and my 562 I'm a happy camper these days.
Now to add a BIG saw 80cc plus to the collection.
I know wheres theres a 281 that will be for sale. That will be next.
Then I ran my friends. Im a sheetmetal worker so my hands are pretty beat up, lots of arthritis and carpal tunnel in both of them.
I'm a big fella at 6'2" 265lbs so weight isnt really an issue for me, vibration has become my main complaint as I get older.
The smoothness of these 5 series saws is impressive to say the least. And the 576 has really good power for a stock saw.
With this saw and my 562 I'm a happy camper these days.
Now to add a BIG saw 80cc plus to the collection.
I know wheres theres a 281 that will be for sale. That will be next.
Derrick Sawyer
ArboristSite Guru
Cool, good lesson here. I'd be interested in what parts are needed to make autotune, u offer a bundle deal on them?
For me to go auto tune on this saw will be a bit of a project. I'm still probably going to do it through.
As I've stated before this is a real junkpile build, theres parts from many saws to build this one.
The cases on this saw are damaged behind the flywheel. From what I gather the screws that held the generator on came loose and the generator got hit by the flywheel, ripping off the mounts on the case. Cases are fine otherwise as long as a guy only wants to use a carb on this saw.
Thats why this saw is a carb saw as theres nowhere to mount the generator under the flywheel..
So if I want to go AT I'll have to swap to a good set of cases, mount a generator, possibly switch to the blue limited coil (this saw has an unlimited coil presently), add all the wiring and an AT carb.
My buddy has another set of good cases with a bad crank and all the rest of the parts if I want.
So I will probably do the swap as all it will cost me is some time, new bearings and some gaskets.
Yet another update.
Saw ran ok for awhile and now is back to leaning out after a big cut. If I cut small wood it runs fine.
Put it in big wood and it again four strokes if I let off pressure in the cut and cleans up nice in the cut.
This saw is going on the shelf for awhile as I'm thinking I simply have a bad carb.
Haven't had the time to grab the auto tune parts that my buddy has so Im not going to keep messing around.
Im going to split this saw and start from scratch as I can't find my leak.
To date I've installed both crank seals, resealed the cylinder base gasket, new fuel line and impulse and carb hardware. I also replaced the sparkplug which made it run very for a day or so then it started leaning out again.
I have a carb kit here, the only thing i can think to do is rebuild this new maybe 5 hour on it carb.
This saw has been a fun challenge and also a big pain in the rear. If I never cut wood larger then 20" Id never know theres a problem.
It runs great right until it leans out.
Saw ran ok for awhile and now is back to leaning out after a big cut. If I cut small wood it runs fine.
Put it in big wood and it again four strokes if I let off pressure in the cut and cleans up nice in the cut.
This saw is going on the shelf for awhile as I'm thinking I simply have a bad carb.
Haven't had the time to grab the auto tune parts that my buddy has so Im not going to keep messing around.
Im going to split this saw and start from scratch as I can't find my leak.
To date I've installed both crank seals, resealed the cylinder base gasket, new fuel line and impulse and carb hardware. I also replaced the sparkplug which made it run very for a day or so then it started leaning out again.
I have a carb kit here, the only thing i can think to do is rebuild this new maybe 5 hour on it carb.
This saw has been a fun challenge and also a big pain in the rear. If I never cut wood larger then 20" Id never know theres a problem.
It runs great right until it leans out.
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
Better to go completely through it then you know what you have.
When I was fixing gravely tractors I would bore it, new gaskets, grind the valves. New paint, run it for a while then sell it. One tractor bit me. The cone clutch was cracked. Take it apart again. Then I would dissassemble the tractor and check every part. Now I go through everything the first time. I hate doing things twice I just don’t have extra time right now.
I tell guys on the tractor forum new paint doesn’t mean it’s a restoration.
When I was fixing gravely tractors I would bore it, new gaskets, grind the valves. New paint, run it for a while then sell it. One tractor bit me. The cone clutch was cracked. Take it apart again. Then I would dissassemble the tractor and check every part. Now I go through everything the first time. I hate doing things twice I just don’t have extra time right now.
I tell guys on the tractor forum new paint doesn’t mean it’s a restoration.
Bill I think you're right.
I do know whats been done to this saw but it still doesn't all add up.
The reason this saw has a normal carb is the generator mounts were sheared off of these cases so only a carb could be run..
My buddy is a great guy and said I can have all his spare parts which consists of a good set of cases and all parts to make it Auto Tune.
Only thing is that means I have to switch the cases over so ill install new bearings and yet another set of seals. Might as well do a no base gasket build and a muffler mod at the same time.
So like I said ill throw this saw on the shelf for now and revisit it later once all parts are sourced.
Thats alright cause I'm really loving my recent 044 build, its a great saw and cuts like a beast.
Sounds like a carb issue to me. Zama’s are a lot more prone to internal problems than walbro’s. I’d try a different carb from your buddy’s stash first and see how that plays out. It’s really handy having extra parts saws laying around to pinch parts from when diagnosing tricky problems like the one you’re dealing with.
5 series saws are pretty good in my mind. They definitely are a little more finicky than the 372 series (I blame that on the zama carb for that) and my dealer sees a lot more P&C failures with them, but they handle well, are smooth and built strong overall. I have no problem buying 575/576’s when they come into my local husky dealer on trade. I just wish husky would drop the piston and cylinder price on them comparable to the 372. Still well over $200 last time I checked.
5 series saws are pretty good in my mind. They definitely are a little more finicky than the 372 series (I blame that on the zama carb for that) and my dealer sees a lot more P&C failures with them, but they handle well, are smooth and built strong overall. I have no problem buying 575/576’s when they come into my local husky dealer on trade. I just wish husky would drop the piston and cylinder price on them comparable to the 372. Still well over $200 last time I checked.
Yeah I tend to stay away from zama carbs as I personally think they are junk.
But in this case its zama or nothing.its too bad cause this 576 is a great saw and like I've said it runs great, starts great and has good power.
Its the random running issues that are driving me nuts as I hate stopping doing work because a saw isnt working right.
But in this case its zama or nothing.its too bad cause this 576 is a great saw and like I've said it runs great, starts great and has good power.
Its the random running issues that are driving me nuts as I hate stopping doing work because a saw isnt working right.
So yet another update.
I got all the parts to make my 576 an auto tune.
My left side case had broken mounts for the generator, thats how my saw became a non AT saw.
So I swapped the left case with another good case. Put in a new left crankseal, generator, wiring and a good AT carb. I resealed the cases with motoseal as well as the cylinder base gasket. I double and tripled checked everything along the way.
Saw fired up instantly and settled into a nice idle.
I went to the wood pile and cut some wood. Saw ran ok, it sounds snarly now almost less rpm in the cut but has way more torque in the cut. Figured problem solved.
Ran it for a 1/2 a tank and then it once again leaned out at idle just like before.
I hate this saw lol!!!
Time to start swapping intakes I guess? I have 2 or 3 spare intakes along with 1 or 2 more AT carbs.
To recap to date I've installed new crank seals, base gasket, new oem carb, impulse, fuel and vent line as well as a new filter.
I've done many vac and pressure tests. I resealed the welsh plugs on the new carb, adjusted the metering height also.
The saw starts, idles and cuts fine until it gets hot like say after 10 mins or so.
Then it leans out after a cut and stays just a tick over idle.
I backed the idle screw all the way out on the new AT carb and it still races a bit.
Once again I hate this saw.
I'm stumped!!
I got all the parts to make my 576 an auto tune.
My left side case had broken mounts for the generator, thats how my saw became a non AT saw.
So I swapped the left case with another good case. Put in a new left crankseal, generator, wiring and a good AT carb. I resealed the cases with motoseal as well as the cylinder base gasket. I double and tripled checked everything along the way.
Saw fired up instantly and settled into a nice idle.
I went to the wood pile and cut some wood. Saw ran ok, it sounds snarly now almost less rpm in the cut but has way more torque in the cut. Figured problem solved.
Ran it for a 1/2 a tank and then it once again leaned out at idle just like before.
I hate this saw lol!!!
Time to start swapping intakes I guess? I have 2 or 3 spare intakes along with 1 or 2 more AT carbs.
To recap to date I've installed new crank seals, base gasket, new oem carb, impulse, fuel and vent line as well as a new filter.
I've done many vac and pressure tests. I resealed the welsh plugs on the new carb, adjusted the metering height also.
The saw starts, idles and cuts fine until it gets hot like say after 10 mins or so.
Then it leans out after a cut and stays just a tick over idle.
I backed the idle screw all the way out on the new AT carb and it still races a bit.
Once again I hate this saw.
I'm stumped!!
