~6# Fiberglass Handled Splitting Mauls...?

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WiscSawFan

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Anybody know who makes and/or sells a 6# (approximately) fiberglass handled splitting maul? I've been looking for one for a friend and I haven't been able to find them locally. I know he wants a specific head design but the difficultly in locating one has got me looking for what's even available.

Any information would be helpful. Thanks.
 
TSC used to sell the roughneck linked above. They now sell the truper, its a p.o.s. You can get it at menards as well, not worth your time or $$. I bought the roughneck a handful of years ago, it made it thru my learning curve & I still use it today. Pay the extra for it.
 
I saw the ones on Northern Tool's site. I tried google before and got about the same ones you guys came up with. Thought maybe there were some local/small companies out there making them or there's some manufacturer I'm missing. :dunno:

The one shown at Ace's isn't something I'd like. It looks more like a "sledge axe" than a maul. I don't see too many 6# splitting mauls around that come with fiberglass handles from the factory.

It's good to know that the truper mauls may not be the best.

Thanks.
 
For Christmas my FIL got me a 6 1/2# Razorback fiberglass handled maul. I believe it is made by Ames. He got it at Big R, which is like a TSC or Farm and Fleet. Around $30. Works great, just ask my shoulders, biceps and forearms!
 
Buy American... nice sentiment, but easier said than done. Show me a made in America cast maul head.

Ian

CAST??? Make mine FORGED! I've been splitting with a pair of Fiskars axes. One is their Splitting Axe, and the other is their Pro Chopping Axe. While it would seem the heavier splitting axe would be superior, I find it easier to split with the lighter chopping axe...unbreakable handles, and also sold under the Gerber name brand at Gander Mountain.

Husqvarna sells Swedish made Wetterlings axes and mauls. Your dealer may or may not stock them, but they are available. They are hand forged and have hickory handles.

Snow & Nealley also makes and sells forged axes with ash or hickory handles, and made in Maine, USA!

The maul that I bought at Ace Hardware sits in my garage mostly unused despite getting a considerable thinning, reshaping, and sharpening. The Chopper One is virtually useless!
 
True, forged is better... but most off the shelf mauls are cast. Nobody makes them in the US that I know of.

Ian
 
i use the one from Stihl.

i like the balance.handle is holding up fine,hickory .
 
Try a Collins 6 or 8 lb. I had the 8 lb for years and it split many a cord. The head finally came loose and I replaced it with a fiskars with mixed feelings. I would definitely buy another one!
 
I've got a Collins Black Knight splitting axe and a Stanley maul. The maul is vintage and works great, when I use it.
They both take and hold an edge real good and both have wood handles.
I put a new White Ash handle on the axe and polished up the head a bit and ground a new edge on it. It's scary sharp now. The maul has a nice Hickory handle.
Love them both.
I also have a smaller vintage large hatchet or "firewood" buddy axe with a Hickory handle and an older Estwing hatchet with leather handle grip and sheath.
Got them all at garage sales save the firewood buddy/small axe that came from my Dad's tools I inherited when he passed.
 
I've used fiberglas, and I have to say that long term, my joints much prefer a good wood handle. This is especially true in swinging a 10 or 15 pound sledge all day long.

Wood absorbs the shock, fiberglas passes it on to you. True, fiberglas will often outlast wood (though I've broken at least one fiberglas handle.) But you'll be splitting pain free for more years if you go wood.

My favorite mauls are Granfors, and my favorite maul or all is their splitting axe (though it's not designed for hitting a wedge and won't feel good if you try). At 5 pounds, it's crazy light, but you can get one heck of a swing with a lighter head. I find that I rarely need a wedge, but I'm still reasonably young and strong.

A final note about Gransfor handles: they are excellent grain, cased in metal at the head, and boiled in linseed oil. I've split roughly 30-40 cords of big, knotty old-growth just with that splitting axe, and it's still going strong.

Best of luck.
 
Your friend should rethink his choice... fiberglass/synthetic handles do not belong on striking tools.
Not only does fiberglass transfer far more shock and vibration to your body parts, it also allows the striking head to recoil a lot more. Shock, vibration and recoil translate into lost or wasted energy. A fiberglass handle requires you to use more energy to accomplish the same task... while increasing the beating your wrists, elbows, shoulders and back take even more. A fiberglass handle means you will work harder to get less done, all the while unnecessarily abusing your body.

Try this experiment...
Take to hammers of the same weight and handle length, one with a fiberglass handle, the other with a hickory handle. Hold them loosely and strike something solid with each, such as an anvil or the flat anvil of a large bench vise... it ain't necessary to strike them hard, more or less just let them fall of their own weight. Which one recoils (bounces) higher than the other?? A lot higher?? Next try holding one in each hand a strike the two heads together (be sure you have a firm grip on the fiberglass handle‼).

Guess why most fiberglass handles have a rubber, or synthetic grip on them?? It's because of the increased recoil and vibration (energy loss).
With a hickory handle the proper technique is to release, or loosen your grip just as the head strikes... at that point, the point where the tool strikes, it does all the work while transferring near all the energy to the object being struck. That technique ain't possible with a fiberglass handle, the tool will bounce clean out'a your hand... fiberglass requires you maintain a firm grip, as well as muscle force all the way through the strike. Fiberglass handles on striking tools are nothing but a sales gimmick... an "unbreakable" or "lifetime guaranty" sales gimmick. But longevity, or perceived longevity, don't make something better... it simply makes it salable to the naive. Shock and vibration to the body is cumulative; it may not feel like a big deal on the first strike, but three hours later... or three years later...

Using a hickory handled tool also allows a lighter striking head... my favorite nail hammer weights 13 ounces, not 16. My 13 ounce, hickory-handled nail hammer will out-work a 16 ounce, fiberglass-handled hammer all day long... while, at the same time, using far less of my energy, and being far less abusive to my wrist and elbow. A 6# hickory-handled maul will transfer as much (or more) energy to the wood being split than an 8# fiberglass-handled maul... and beat you up a whole lot less.
*
 
I bought my maul at Sears about 8 years ago. Sticker said "Made in USA." It's got a fiberglass handle and seems to work well enough but I don't split with it anywhere near as much as many of the folks here. I am thinking about reshaping the head though... it's got a very blunt point.
 
Council Tools in NC makes 6 lb and 8 lb mauls. Last I saw, Bailey's price on the 6 lb was $20-something. Almost went for one, but really don't need another.

Council Tools does some really nice smithy work. Their $20-something axe I got recently is a thing of functional beauty.
 

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