60-70cc chainsaw

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HogTide56

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Considering getting a new chainsaw and need some advice. I will use the saw for cutting down 18-26" trees, mostly white oak and sweet gum, and also tackling trees that have been blown over and somewhat rotten.
I have a Husky 353 (50cc and 18" bar) and was wanting a pro model with a little more oomph. I only cut 10-12 trees/year, but would rather get a pro model and not worry about it.
Don't know if I should get a 60cc like the 562XP or MS362 with a 20" bar, or if that would be too much like my 18" 353, and should go bigger like with a 372XP.
I'm thinking that I should get one that I can put a 20" bar on for most of the time, and that could handle a 24" if needed - can't imagine ever needing anything bigger than a 24" bar.
 
Never run a 362 so I won't comment on it but there are a lot of reviews on this site if you search. As for 562 and 372 I'd say go with the 562 as its lighter, cheaper and will run a 24" bar no problem. I own them both and like them both very much.
 
Consider Husky 555 as well. It has a good following on this site. Almost went with that before buying my 562.
 
Considering getting a new chainsaw and need some advice. I will use the saw for cutting down 18-26" trees, mostly white oak and sweet gum, and also tackling trees that have been blown over and somewhat rotten.
I have a Husky 353 (50cc and 18" bar) and was wanting a pro model with a little more oomph. I only cut 10-12 trees/year, but would rather get a pro model and not worry about it.
Don't know if I should get a 60cc like the 562XP or MS362 with a 20" bar, or if that would be too much like my 18" 353, and should go bigger like with a 372XP.
I'm thinking that I should get one that I can put a 20" bar on for most of the time, and that could handle a 24" if needed - can't imagine ever needing anything bigger than a 24" bar.

Just type in the search bar "60cc" or "70cc" and read until your heart's content...it's all there.
 
If you are keeping your 353 for limbing I'd jump to a 372 or one of the 70cc Stihls. Otherwise for a one saw plan either the 362 or 562 are great saws and light weight as well. I've had the opportunity to run modded versions of both of those and they don't disappoint. Both had lots of power but I found the 562 to be especially "angry".

Also if you are looking for used don't overlook the 2165/365.
 
There in N. Alabama, you could run into some pretty large trees so I would go bigger rather than get another saw about the size you have. The 372 or similar would be a good option. (if you like that color)
 
Someday you may have need of a longer bar, my nod would go to the 372. As has been said, you already have a 50cc saw. A 50cc & 70cc make a great combination with a better spread in utility than a 50 & 60cc pair of saws. 372's are not that heavy for the amount of time most woodcutters spend. Hauling amd lifting the wood I find much more tiring.
 
Whenever someone is choosing to have two saws I always figure that the small one should be the smallest that will do the bulk of the work, the largest should be the biggest saw that you can comfortably handle while still being practical.
I'd second the motion that a 70+cc saw is a good match for a 50cc saw.
 
Welcome to the site.

I agree with most of the advice already given. Since you already have a 50 cc saw, I would go for a 70 cc, and the 372 or an 044/440 are excellent choices, they will easily out perform the 60 cc saws (and I like 60 cc saws), but you already have a 50.

The 461 is a little bit heavier, but is an excellent saw and also worthy of your consideration, along with the 576 or 7900/7910.

You will also discover a lot of advice on how to mod your muffler, etc to squeeze a little more performance out of your saws. It makes a very noticeable difference on some of them.

Best of luck.
 
If you have full intention to keep your 353, skip the 60cc and get into a 70cc saw. For me, the weight/HP jump between a 50-60cc is much less desirable than the 60-70cc saws.
 
Go into the store, pick up a 562XP and a 576XP. You'll know in about 10 seconds. The 70cc saw doesn't sound like much more weight on paper, but hold it out like you're making an awkward cut and think about doing that all afternoon. For us, we decided that the 562XP would get done 99% of what we need it to without a problem while being lighter and easier on the back the whole time. For the 1% of trees that can't be cut down from both sides with a 28" bar on the 562XP, well, there's rental services and arborists for that. Given that we'd only need to cut something wider than 50" once or twice a decade, it doesn't make sense to carry the extra weight for all the other work. If the 562XP ever feels too slow in the stuff we need it to do, then we'll just send it out to have it ported.

OTOH, if the extra weight doesn't feel like it means anything to you and you think you'll have a lot of trees >30", the fact that the 70cc saw will allow you to make more cuts without having to resort ot cutting from both sides is probably worth it.
 
A 576 is MUCH heavier than a 372/044/440. It is even heavier than a 461, which is one heck of a saw.

IMO, the 372/044/440 are still suitable for limbing in addition to bucking. The larger saws are mostly just for bucking.
 
@HogTide56 ,

What I donot understand is why you critisize your 353? For me it definately belongs in the pro saw section! Full bar in the wood there is not much difference between the 353 and 346xp. Yeah the 346 might be a little more snappy but at the end of the day you wont have more wood in your truck.
What I would like to know is your 353 still a version with a green gas cap? If yes, and I remember correctly, you should remove the cat from the muffler or at least order a new muffler without catalysator and retune your saw.

Economy wise, I would stay with either a 555 or if you choose to go larger a 365xt. The 365 is a detuned version of the 372, which can be easily transformed almost into 372. There are few threads on here and otherwhere on how to do it. They are more than enough for a homeowner!

7
 
Man you guys all respond quick! Thanks for all the advice!
7sleeper - my 353 does have a green gas cap on it, I will look in to messing with the muffler/cat. That is one of the reasons/excuses I am looking at a new saw - one of the muffler screws on my 353 is stripped out and the other jiggles loose after using it a couple hours. I just put some heavy duty loc-tite on the threads and hope the one will stay in longer. Minor issue to be looking at another saw, but it is just the tipping factor.
A friend had recommended Stihl, but it looks like most folks around here prefer the Huskys - not trying to start anything, I understand it is like Ford/Chevy.
 
All of the companies make some good saws, so don't pay any mind to the preferences of others. Go heft (and run if possible) any of the saws you are interested in, and get what feels good to you.

I personally would check out that 044 on the trading site, likely one of the lightest & best performing 70 cc saws out there, but everyone knows I am a little bias toward them.

Good Luck with your decision. Glad you know enough to pull that muffler on the other saw.
 
Man you guys all respond quick! Thanks for all the advice!
7sleeper - my 353 does have a green gas cap on it, I will look in to messing with the muffler/cat. That is one of the reasons/excuses I am looking at a new saw - one of the muffler screws on my 353 is stripped out and the other jiggles loose after using it a couple hours. I just put some heavy duty loc-tite on the threads and hope the one will stay in longer. Minor issue to be looking at another saw, but it is just the tipping factor.
A friend had recommended Stihl, but it looks like most folks around here prefer the Huskys - not trying to start anything, I understand it is like Ford/Chevy.
I prefer the money in my pocket! So I would rather recomend either a Echo 590 for around 400$ or a dolmar 6100 for around one to two bills more. Both excelent build with the 590 being a slightly detuned version of the 620/600 line and the 6100 a full pro 60cc saw.

7
 
... one of the muffler screws on my 353 is stripped out and the other jiggles loose after using it a couple hours. I just put some heavy duty loc-tite on the threads and hope the one will stay in longer...
A friend had recommended Stihl, but it looks like most folks around here prefer the Huskys...
If your local Husky shop has the tools and training to diagnose and repair AT saws, I'd suggest the 562xp, especially 'cause you already own a Husky. With a 20" bar, you can process 18-26" hardwood all day; no reason I can see to go longer. Dunno if you can have the muffler bolts on the 353 repaired with a stainless steel insert, but the saw would be handy to keep around as a backup.
 
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