Do you guys have any tips on splitting with a Maul ? I do all my splitting by hand, and sometimes I think I may be able to improve on my methods. I use a solid piece of locust for aa chop block. I was wondering, should I have it on a solid base such as concrete to alleviate bounce/compression ? Another Q, about where should the piece that is being split (top) align with your body ? and another... do you guys grind the maul edge ? not super sharp of course, but maybe to take the burrs off ? Sometimes I feel as if I take too many whacks at a chunk of wood. Any helpful tips out there ?
A Few Splitting Questions
- Thread starter Dale
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The first thing I do is look for knots in the log. You want to position the knot so that you're splitting it from the bottom. That seems to be the easiest way for me. Also, look for cracks in the log. If the log has had some time to dry, there should be some cracks appearing. Work with nature and use this crack as your starting point for splitting.
I was watching a guy split some wood once and he was hitting the log with the maul right near the edge of the log and popping off 1 or 2 inch thick slabs. It seemed to work pretty well. I'll usually split the rounds in half with a wedge and sledge and then split the halfs with the maul using the same strategy of working my way in from one end versus trying to split the half right down the middle.
Also, once the round is split in half, you can look at the wood to see if there are any knots or branch points that disrupt the grain. Split the wood where the grain is the straightest.
I was watching a guy split some wood once and he was hitting the log with the maul right near the edge of the log and popping off 1 or 2 inch thick slabs. It seemed to work pretty well. I'll usually split the rounds in half with a wedge and sledge and then split the halfs with the maul using the same strategy of working my way in from one end versus trying to split the half right down the middle.
Also, once the round is split in half, you can look at the wood to see if there are any knots or branch points that disrupt the grain. Split the wood where the grain is the straightest.
I have a splitter but do most of mine by wedge/sledge/maul. I need the exercise.
Split from bottom.
Kick big knots/forks/stubborn pieces to the side after you split off the easy parts - chainsaw them up when you feel like it.
It is nice to have a solid block with no give but I prefer my rounds on the ground. Better ergonomics for hitting them square. Maybe I will look for a good block that I can cut down to abouit 6 or 8" for my splitting block.
I like to have a good edge on the maul but it isn't critical.
Last year I had to split a bunch with the splitter as I had my work area beat down to powder dust. This year I am going to find one of those door mats made from tires and try that.
Harry K
Split from bottom.
Kick big knots/forks/stubborn pieces to the side after you split off the easy parts - chainsaw them up when you feel like it.
It is nice to have a solid block with no give but I prefer my rounds on the ground. Better ergonomics for hitting them square. Maybe I will look for a good block that I can cut down to abouit 6 or 8" for my splitting block.
I like to have a good edge on the maul but it isn't critical.
Last year I had to split a bunch with the splitter as I had my work area beat down to powder dust. This year I am going to find one of those door mats made from tires and try that.
Harry K
musher
ArboristSite Operative
Split the blocks right where they landed when you cut them off of the log. That way, you're only bending over to pick up the wood once, when its split up into smaller pieces.
clearance
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes, chopping blocks take away from the length of swing, don't move any more than you have to. Good advice here about using the natural splits, as far as knots, try to high grade and avoid knotty wood. I use a maul, 8lb. sledge and two wedges. No need to sharpen the maul, it won't help you. I like to swing from way back from behind me, coming over with all the power I can, using my wrists for a final snap before I connect. Sometimes it is best to use wedges, sometimes a couple of swings with a maul will do it. No way around it it is hard work, the best advice I can give is this, I high grade as much as I can- Fall the tree across the road, buck it from the stump up untill the branches start (on the other side of the road), then stop, load up your truck, leave the top full of branches in the bush and drive home. Knots really are a pain in the ass.musher said:
My grandfather and I used to start a round with a hatchet and short handled sledge, once the split started, we would use a 5# wedge and go from there.
clearance
Addicted to ArboristSite
Dale, get a sledge hammer and a couple of steel wedges, you will figure it out. Only hit wedges with a sledgehammer, not a maul or an axe. Do not hit a maul or an axe with a sledgehammer. The steels are not made for this and will fracture, little pieces of steel in your face, eye.
Mister Moe
ArboristSite Lurker
Sure - here's a splitting tip - my buddy taught me how to REALLY split with a maul some years ago.
I watched in amazement as he laid open a two foot diameter chunk of oak with three hits! Then he showed me the secret: just as the maul head is about to hit wood, twist the head so that it's actually at an angle. Two things will happen: the maul will not get stuck in the wood, it will just bounce off. Also, the force is not just directed perpendicular to the wood leaving only the shape of maul head to split the wood apart but rather, the maul head is entering the wood at an angle and the force is directed sideways - now not only is the maul head wedging the wood apart, but the sideways force is also working for you. If it's a larger piece, say larger than a foot diameter, don't try to split it all at once, hit it two or three times. You'll find you can split it anywhere you want with this technique but for demonstration, let's say you want to split in half: hit the chunk in the center but towards one side then hit towards the other side - both of these hits should not be full out hits, just half-hearted hits to prime the wood. Then, on your last hit, just HIT it in the center and the chunk will explode in half like you wouldn't believe.
This technique does require some practice but once you get the idea, you'll be amazed at the efficiency of it. Now I can easily split two foot diameter sections with three hits. I have a splitter but I actually prefer to split by hand (I too need the exercise). If the chunk doesn't go after a few hits I'll just kick it aside for the splitter along with the really knotted pieces. Oh - one more thing - I find that maple and oak split best when green.
Hope this helps
Moe
I watched in amazement as he laid open a two foot diameter chunk of oak with three hits! Then he showed me the secret: just as the maul head is about to hit wood, twist the head so that it's actually at an angle. Two things will happen: the maul will not get stuck in the wood, it will just bounce off. Also, the force is not just directed perpendicular to the wood leaving only the shape of maul head to split the wood apart but rather, the maul head is entering the wood at an angle and the force is directed sideways - now not only is the maul head wedging the wood apart, but the sideways force is also working for you. If it's a larger piece, say larger than a foot diameter, don't try to split it all at once, hit it two or three times. You'll find you can split it anywhere you want with this technique but for demonstration, let's say you want to split in half: hit the chunk in the center but towards one side then hit towards the other side - both of these hits should not be full out hits, just half-hearted hits to prime the wood. Then, on your last hit, just HIT it in the center and the chunk will explode in half like you wouldn't believe.
This technique does require some practice but once you get the idea, you'll be amazed at the efficiency of it. Now I can easily split two foot diameter sections with three hits. I have a splitter but I actually prefer to split by hand (I too need the exercise). If the chunk doesn't go after a few hits I'll just kick it aside for the splitter along with the really knotted pieces. Oh - one more thing - I find that maple and oak split best when green.
Hope this helps
Moe
PWB
ArboristSite Guru
Some woods split easier when they're frozen too.
keaton64
ArboristSite Lurker
the best tool i have found for splitting firewood is the wood grenade. it takes two or three good hits with a sledge hammer and it will split anything, green, seasoned, or frozen. they are sold at walmart and tractor supply for around 8 or 9 bucks.
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
My favourite is a 6# maul with a 36" wooden handle. Aim is the game and knowing the woods weakest area and hitting that first. Bring the maul head up even with your ear and just when the handle gets close to horizontal slide the forehand to meet the hand on the heel of the handle. If done correctly it creates additional force much like snapping a towel.
I seldom, "flick", the maul as was described and alot of people do that, but a large percentage of the time the axe will dangerously deflect. I like splitting wood and my record is 44 cords in one month working alone, felled , bucked split with an axe and delivered, but that was in 1986. Wow, 20 years ago!
John
I seldom, "flick", the maul as was described and alot of people do that, but a large percentage of the time the axe will dangerously deflect. I like splitting wood and my record is 44 cords in one month working alone, felled , bucked split with an axe and delivered, but that was in 1986. Wow, 20 years ago!
John
046 said:
What curls my 'nads is reading about the good old days back in colonial times where they would burn 20-30 cord a season. All cut with crosscuts. I have seen those reports refering to isolated settlers so they weren't useing hired hands or slaves.
Harry K
donnyman
ArboristSite Operative
Well heres a free tip for all who split useing a maul.first look for a maul head that has a very sharp v shape so you dont have to drive the head into the wood 2 or 3 inchs before it starts to spread the block.I have found an 8 pounder the best.You can look at it to ways .Swig a 8 pounder 2 times or a 6 pounder 4 or 5 times.Its up to you.I like 2 times my self.Also if you are felling the tree limb it up and block it.Then start spliting the block from th top down instead of from the bottom up.If you have a load of log delivered as many people do now days try and see which was the top of the tree by crotches or in witch way the limbsif any wear cut off,and stand the blocks up the same way as when the tree was standing in the woods before being cut.What I trying to explane is that they split easiest from the top down.Try it you will see what I mean.Good luck.Don.
Old Gold
ArboristSite Lurker
Aim Is The Game!!!
During a paid vacation from work in the fall of 02', a buddy and I felled, bucked, split, and delivered 20 cord in a seven day period. At the end of the week I wasn't sure if we'd produced more blocks of wood or empty beer cans
Helped with the back pain
44 cord in one month, damned impressive. Wish I could've been there to help.
Gypo Logger said:
During a paid vacation from work in the fall of 02', a buddy and I felled, bucked, split, and delivered 20 cord in a seven day period. At the end of the week I wasn't sure if we'd produced more blocks of wood or empty beer cans
Helped with the back pain 44 cord in one month, damned impressive. Wish I could've been there to help.
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
Looking back, I wonder how I did it, but I just looked and found my order book for 1989 and here was my production for that year, The wood, I got right off the stump and delivered that day, felled, bucked split and loaded. I did 3 cords in 6- 12 hrs. depending on variables. This is full cords-128 cu. ft.
That year I grossed 175/cord plus about 10,000 $ for sawlogs.
There is money in firewood, but you have to buy it on the stump and be efficient and have a 4x4 tractor with pto winch and loader with at least a 5 ton truck, but due to high costs of fuel, loading 20 and 40 yard bins will give you your biggest profit. 3cord orders are the way to make it.
John
Jan- 19
Feb-23
Mar. 40
Apr.46
May 20
June 40
July 28
Aug. 39
Sept 45
Oct. 49
Nov. 45
Dec. 29
total 423 full cords.
John
That year I grossed 175/cord plus about 10,000 $ for sawlogs.
There is money in firewood, but you have to buy it on the stump and be efficient and have a 4x4 tractor with pto winch and loader with at least a 5 ton truck, but due to high costs of fuel, loading 20 and 40 yard bins will give you your biggest profit. 3cord orders are the way to make it.
John
Jan- 19
Feb-23
Mar. 40
Apr.46
May 20
June 40
July 28
Aug. 39
Sept 45
Oct. 49
Nov. 45
Dec. 29
total 423 full cords.
John
Old Gold
ArboristSite Lurker
What a year!!!
John,
How do you go about finding/locating your firewood where you're at up there in Canada? Down here in Washington State, I locate most of my firewood on state and forest service land (with permit), plus logging jobs. What species do you cut for firewood (i.e., doug fir, western larch, lodgepole pine)? I agree there is money in firewood, but only with great effeciency, as mentioned. It also helps if there is a nice stand and/or deck waiting in the woods for a guy
What kind of saws are you using for your firewood cutting? At 400+ cord a year, I hope they're big and powerful!!! That firewood keeps a guy in great shape doesn't it Get back with me...
Gypo Logger said:
John,
How do you go about finding/locating your firewood where you're at up there in Canada? Down here in Washington State, I locate most of my firewood on state and forest service land (with permit), plus logging jobs. What species do you cut for firewood (i.e., doug fir, western larch, lodgepole pine)? I agree there is money in firewood, but only with great effeciency, as mentioned. It also helps if there is a nice stand and/or deck waiting in the woods for a guy
What kind of saws are you using for your firewood cutting? At 400+ cord a year, I hope they're big and powerful!!! That firewood keeps a guy in great shape doesn't it Get back with me...
