a no-no to split firewood with chainsaw?
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smilin possum
Addicted to ArboristSite
Welcome to the site.
I don't know that it hurts as long as you got a saw that will handle it. Be sure to lay the wood down and don't have it sitting on the end when you try it. We do it a lot with real big wood to make it easier to handle when getting it on the splitter. Sometimes we do it just for giggles and noodle um up into quarters and go from there.
Most likely it will depend on who you talk to about this but we been doing it for years and have never messed up a saw. The noodles will sometimes gang up in the cover and you'll have to clean um out. Give it a try and see. Good luck and saw safe.
Nosmo
Addicted to ArboristSite
Axe or Saw ?
I try to help you out with this one. It depends on the diameter of what you want to split. Smaller rounds say about 12" or less can usually be split easily with an axe - depending on the type of wood. This is not the case for instance with Elm.
Larger pieces say 24" in diameter can be quartered up by what we call noodling. This is laying the log on its side and cutting about 1/4 the way through from end to end. Then the log is rolled and another cut is made and now a quarter chunk of the log is free. The rest of the log is cut this way and there will be 4 smaller pieces which can be split with an axe or a log splitter.
The log is not turned up on end and cut with the chainsaw -- this would be ripping. This is entirely a different operation and is used to create lumber in longer lengths.
I'll enclose a picture of my noodling a pine tree earlier this year.
Nosmo
Larger pieces say 24" in diameter can be quartered up by what we call noodling. This is laying the log on its side and cutting about 1/4 the way through from end to end. Then the log is rolled and another cut is made and now a quarter chunk of the log is free. The rest of the log is cut this way and there will be 4 smaller pieces which can be split with an axe or a log splitter.
The log is not turned up on end and cut with the chainsaw -- this would be ripping. This is entirely a different operation and is used to create lumber in longer lengths.
I'll enclose a picture of my noodling a pine tree earlier this year.
Nosmo
taylor6400
ArboristSite Operative
Ok, I noodle big rounds too. But my question is why is it bad to rip them? Hard on the chain? Saw? Both? I do know they make a chain specific for the application, but im talking with your normal chisel chain.
smilin possum
Addicted to ArboristSite
Try it out and you can tell. If your rip you get mostly dust it's hard on everthing if not the right stuff. Then look at the pics that were posted of noodling, you get big ole noodles no dust. It's done with the grain not across it. It's just easier done this way.
CountryBoy19
ArboristSite Operative
Yeah, I think it's pretty hard on the saw. I think an axe/maul/splitter works so much better.
One time I tried it with an MS250, but the bar broke off the second time I smacked it on the wood (the first time it didn't split it at all). So I just got a bigger 066 with a 4 foot bar thinking that one might split it. I cracked the handle after about the 4th swing, and then I discovered that the bar was bent. That's when I decided to just use an axe to split wood. Chainsaws are overrated when it comes to splitting power, even though they're often double or even up to 5 times the weight of some splitting axes and mauls.
Or maybe you're supposed to take the chain off and use the bar as a handle and use the power head as a sledge to hit wedges?
:jester:
On a more serious note, shouldn't be a problem using a saw to CUT rounds into smaller pieces.
One time I tried it with an MS250, but the bar broke off the second time I smacked it on the wood (the first time it didn't split it at all). So I just got a bigger 066 with a 4 foot bar thinking that one might split it. I cracked the handle after about the 4th swing, and then I discovered that the bar was bent. That's when I decided to just use an axe to split wood. Chainsaws are overrated when it comes to splitting power, even though they're often double or even up to 5 times the weight of some splitting axes and mauls.
Or maybe you're supposed to take the chain off and use the bar as a handle and use the power head as a sledge to hit wedges?
:jester:
On a more serious note, shouldn't be a problem using a saw to CUT rounds into smaller pieces.
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Smaller diameter logs = split with axe/maul
Log is too large to move or lift without difficulty = noodle it with a chainsaw.
Noodling, done properly, is not hard on the chainsaw powerhead or bar & chain, except for when the noodles clog under the clutch cover and you continue operating the saw. It helps to have a bar that's longer than the log and a powerful enough saw to match the bar.
How to noodle: The Official "Noodles" Pic and Vid Thread
Note that noodling is not the same as ripping and you don't need a special chain for it. There are ripping chains (see the Milling and Saw Mills forum).
Log is too large to move or lift without difficulty = noodle it with a chainsaw.
Noodling, done properly, is not hard on the chainsaw powerhead or bar & chain, except for when the noodles clog under the clutch cover and you continue operating the saw. It helps to have a bar that's longer than the log and a powerful enough saw to match the bar.
How to noodle: The Official "Noodles" Pic and Vid Thread
Note that noodling is not the same as ripping and you don't need a special chain for it. There are ripping chains (see the Milling and Saw Mills forum).
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lumberjach
ArboristSite Operative
We do it all the time. makes life easy for big wood & a small tree services. we have never noticed odd wear and tear.
BlueRidgeMark
Addicted to ArboristSite
It's usually a bit harder on the saw, but if you take it easy and keep your chain sharp, no problem.
If you are spitting dust, your chain needs sharpening. Raker depth is important, too.
It wastes wood, it wastes gas, and (I would think) is tedious to do in any quantity.
Some pieces benefit from it, as compared to going through the splitter, so the results will be flat/square and able to be stacked neatly. But apart from that, I could not envision spending the time required to halve and quarter (or more) every stick of firewood I brought home.
USMC0802
ArboristSite Guru
When the rounds are big enough that a buddy and I can't get them on a trailer by rolling them, they get noodled. We did some noodling when we cut a 34" oak and 36" sweet gum recently.
dingeryote
Blueberry Baron
Big rounds get noodled.
No point in blowing a disk over firewood.
Big Elm rounds get noodled.
No point in blowing a disk AND fighting the stringly mess on the splitter.
It's not hard on the saw, and ya bought the thing to work anyhow.
I dunno about a waste of fuel though as it saves multiple gallons of fuel driving back and forth to the doctor.
Just my .02.
If ya want to get out the Maul and the wedges before loading the big rounds, have at it.
Stay safe!
Dingeryote
No point in blowing a disk over firewood.
Big Elm rounds get noodled.
No point in blowing a disk AND fighting the stringly mess on the splitter.
It's not hard on the saw, and ya bought the thing to work anyhow.
I dunno about a waste of fuel though as it saves multiple gallons of fuel driving back and forth to the doctor.
Just my .02.
If ya want to get out the Maul and the wedges before loading the big rounds, have at it.
Stay safe!
Dingeryote
Swamp Yankee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Been noodling for years
As stated, make sure you're pulling a noodle chip and not sawdust as you'll overheat the saw's motor.
One other thing, when noodling the clutch / sprocket cover tends to fill up with noodles so watch for 2 things;make sure the chain doesn't get bound up and that the bar and chain are getting adequate oil as the noodles can block the flow.
Take Care
As stated, make sure you're pulling a noodle chip and not sawdust as you'll overheat the saw's motor.
One other thing, when noodling the clutch / sprocket cover tends to fill up with noodles so watch for 2 things;make sure the chain doesn't get bound up and that the bar and chain are getting adequate oil as the noodles can block the flow.
Take Care
BlueRidgeMark
Addicted to ArboristSite
Tell me all about that when it's you and two teenaged boys trying to load 54" oak rounds into a pickup.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=74150
You don't have to cut through with the chainsaw. Often, a rip part-way through at one end makes it possible to split a really tough/knotty/forked piece. Ditto ripping lengthwise. Makes it really easy to set a wedge.
For safety, I'd suggest NEVER splitting anything but kindling with an axe. It's really easy to hit yourself in the shin, if you don't stick the axe in the wood.
IME a 6-lb maul works best for splitting by hand; I've got a couple that're well polished. 8-lb just doesn't work as well for me.
For safety, I'd suggest NEVER splitting anything but kindling with an axe. It's really easy to hit yourself in the shin, if you don't stick the axe in the wood.
IME a 6-lb maul works best for splitting by hand; I've got a couple that're well polished. 8-lb just doesn't work as well for me.
NUTNDUN
ArboristSite Operative
After the experience we had recently with the larger diameter stuff that won't split, noodling it is the easiest and quickest way. We have a lot of larger diameter stuff we are saving to be split and almost all of it is going to need noodled before we would be able to pick it up to put it on the splitter.
CountryBoy19
ArboristSite Operative
We're talking about splitting axes here, not chopping axes (there is a difference).
And uh... lots of people split wood by hand every year with splitting axes.
USMC0802
ArboristSite Guru
I think most people refer to them as a maul and an ax. A maul is used for splitting, an ax isn't. Just terminology, but when you talk about splitting with an ax, most people think you're literally talking about an ax, not a maul.
CountryBoy19
ArboristSite Operative
Normally a maul is a heavy, blunt wedge on a handle.
A splitting axe is a lighter, sharpened axe with more of a wedge shape than a normal axe.
A chopping axe is a very light, thin profile axe with a long chopping edge.
USMC0802
ArboristSite Guru
Maybe it's the profile, cause I've seen mauls that weight anywhere from 4-16 lbs. Doesn't really matter. The point is that no one should be using an ax that's made for cutting wood to split wood.
