A quick hello and wood versus fiberglass question

[Bigken462]

Hey guys, I’m not sure how active this forum is, but I thought I would send a quick intro. I live in north central Alabama and wondered across this forum looking for information about wood versus fiberglass axe and splitter handles. I’ve been out of the wood game for about 20 years and about to take ownership of a new home. While I don’t have a place to burn wood here – yet, I am thinking about building a outdoor fire pit. Relatively small compared to what you guys cut for, but never the less, I still like to see what other folks are doing.

My grandfather and father had me cutting wood just as soon as I was able to walk. I still have my old Homelite Super XL chainsaw that I purchased new as a pup in 1980. Likewise, I still have my grandfathers old saw that he used dating back from the 60’s.
I am reentering the trade from scratch and seen several YouTube videos with as many folks voting for wood handles in their stuff as against. How has equipment changed over the last 20 years? Do you guys think it would be wise to search the old yard sells up for some good US Steel and use wood with a fresh coat of boiled linseed oil or move to the newer fiberglass stuff?

I have a few chainsaw questions but will save them for another day.

All the best,

Kenny

 

[cmsmoke]

Look down at the "What a piece of crap" post. Lots of opinions there!

 

[memory]

It depends on what you are using it for. If you plan on splitting with wedges alot, I have found that fiberglass handles do not hold up to the abuse and a wood handle is better. But that is just my experience. I am sure there are fiberglass handles that do hold up. It's just the ones I have used have not held up.

If you just plan on occasionally hitting wedges, then a fiberglass handle would be fine, it also has less shock.

Currently I have an True Temper 8lb maul with a fiberglass and it does not hold up to the abuse of hitting wedges and it don't split with wedges much.. I had a head come completely off, the stuff that holds the head on to the handle eventually fell out in pieces. Luckily it has a lifetime warranty and they sent me a new one without me even sending the old one back, just had to send a pic of the broken maul.

If you are looking for something just to split the wood with, no wedges involved, take a look at the Fiskars X27. It has a plastic type of handle and the handle wrarps completely around the head so it can not come off. These handles are really tough, you or anybody would have a hard time breaking one. I occasionally use it to pry apart logs. The X27 is about half the weight of an 8lb maul so you do not kill yourself swinging it all day.

There are plenty of threads about the X27, just do a search and you will get more info than you can handle.

BTW, welcome to the site.

 

[Bigken462]

Look down at the "What a piece of crap" post. Lots of opinions there!

Yeah, I kinda figured there would be quite a few opinions. I haven't swung a axe or split a round of wood in at least 15 years. I priced some of the axes and mauls and Lowes today and wondering how fast my grandfather would have yanked me away from the isle from buying something with a plastic handle in it. I have to recognize that the quality of materials has changed quite a bite over the last 20 years. I am still somewhat surprised any type of axe or maul would have a 30-40 dollar price tag on it. Lol

With only needing enough wood to support a outdoor smoker and fire pit, it's not going to be a big deal........But it would be nice to know which ever type I buy is something that can be re-handled and used for a few more generations.

 

[TreePointer]

There have been improvements (some dramatic) in just about every material, including steels, aluminum, magnesium alloy, and fiberglass composites, to name a few.

Today's fiberglass is not what it was years ago. If I'm using a heavy sledge, I prefer the synthetic handle over wood--it just doesn't break. I was skeptical about the Fiskars fiberglass composite handles, but I've grown to like them. The same holds true for my Northern Tool Timberjack.

 

[computeruser]

Do NOT buy the crap that is on the market now at the big box stores. Not the axes mauls, or replacement handles. Most of it is pure rubbish. Not just somewhat-rubbish, pure rubbish.

I recently re-hung three nice old ax heads I had laying around using replacement handles from House Handle. They came oversized and required fitting, but after getting the hang of fitting them I am very happy with the results. I sanded off the urethane-type clearcoat and applied some linseed. Total cost to re-hang three ax heads: about $25 including the linseed. I set myself up with a 36", 28", and 20" handles. The former for cutting/splitting, felling, the latter for bumping wedges only.

For splitting, a nice 6# or 8# maul on a wood handle is tough to beat and will do most jobs pretty well. But also consider a wedge-on-a-stick, such as the one sold by Iron&Oak, the log splitter people. Those guys weigh 15# and rely on their mass rather than their speed, but they can't get stuck and split all kinds of stuff really, really well. They also make a mini-version for kindling splitting, which seems nifty.

I have used the Fiskers stuff. It is nice, but it requires more speed than I like to get the results it can so ably deliver. And the plastic handles feel strange to me. I do have their "splitting hatchet" model, which is great for campfire kindling work and for hatchet use.

So in response to your question, I'm a big proponent of sticking with wood and shopping around for used ax/maul heads that need new handles. I think it can be fun to bring an old tool back to life, clean it up and re-hang it, put a nice edge back on (use no grinders!!) and put it to use again. You will not find similar steel in the new crop of axes unless you buy from Gransfors/Iltis/Wetterlings/Council/etc. and most of those come at prices that would likely shock your grandfather.

 

[cmsmoke]

Before I bought a hydraulic splitter, I used a Stihl 6.6 pound maul. I knew there was good and bad out there and not being a forum member...I decide to trust Stihl. $75.00 plus tax years ago. I was shocked at the price, but it split a lot of wood. I believe it has a hickory handle. When fiberglass handles first came out... They were most certainly junk, at least on a shovel. You couldn't hold onto them with wet hands and although unbreakable, they would split and felt like a cooked noodle. I do own a pick with some sort of composite handle and some ball peen hammers with the same. The new artificial handles have come a long way from their beginnings.

 

[Yerpdog]

I use both on a nearly daily basis. I have found that is doesn't really matter. It just depends on too many factors. You have to look at each axe individually. Of the four that I keep razor sharp for using every day they are as follows.

3lb Double Bit with fiberglass handle
8lb Maul with fiberglass handle
4lb light felling axe with hickory handle
1.2lb hatchet with hickory handle

All the other axes I have I don't use often enough to give a good assesment. And to be honest, I do prefer the wood handles. Not because they are better or my ancestors used them. I think it's because I pay more attention using a wood handle. Its sort of a slight state of mind. You don't want to screw up the handle, and the focus you get adds to the experience. The two fiberglass handled axes I have I would probably only change the maul to a wooden handle. But that's simply because I bought it at Lowes and it has a stupid gimmicky wavy handle.. Otherwise I would leave the Fiberglass handle on the Double bit. It gets used about twice as much as all the others put together and hasn't let me down yet, so why change it. One suggestion I do have though if you get a fiberglass handle is this. Fiberglass doesn't feel as natural or as nice to chop or fell with as hickory does. So what I do to all my fiberglass handles is wrap them with paracord. I drill two holes, one less than and inch from the base and one about two+ hand widths up the handle. I drill a small recess in the upper one for the knot to set in. I wrap the paracord as tightly and as securely as possible around the handle, from the one hole to the other. It's looks kinda like this..

http://theparacordsurvivalproject.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/P1010263-600-x-450.jpg

Just get an axe you like and be happy with it. How sharp it is matters waaaaayy more than the handle it has.

 

[unclemoustache]

I'm happy with my fiberglass, but then maybe I'm a better shot than most of the guys around here!

You can also get (or make) a big rubber pad to put on just below the head.

 

[GeeVee]

I'm happy with my fiberglass, but then maybe I'm a better shot than most of the guys around here!

You can also get (or make) a big rubber pad to put on just below the head.

Apparently, you are a good shot, how many kids you got?

What most of these big names who have replied here have in common, is... one of anything, just isn't going to work.

RUN, as fast as you can.

Splitting a little firewood with an axe an mau for a Barbecue and the occasional Nature's Television, can only lead to harder drugs, like rebuilding saws, shopping for the best hi octane ethanol free fuel, and debating whether you want a log shelf or four way, instead.