Adjusting splitter valve

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Polish hammer

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How do I adjust the valve for the auto return I can’t seem to get the lever to always stay back it seems it right in the edge of wanting to stay back.. if any of that makes sense ha is it that hex right by the lever if so which way does what? FD5ACDEB-7176-4C69-B8C3-3B666CFFFDE0.jpegF7F69DB5-8A41-46BB-A96E-0D16E386ADFE.jpegBA295D10-9BE8-4556-8F62-6B58F277C30A.jpeg
 
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This one adjust hold back pressure. Turn it in to hold more. Just loosen the jamb nut first. And it make take a few try’s to find the sweet spot between having the auto return kick out at the end of stroke and it staying in return pattern and stalling the engine.
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This is the pressure relief. Looks to be adjustable as well. Only adjust this out if your staling the engine when pushing a hard block or running the ram to full stroke and then stalling the engine.


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Yup I loosened the jamb nut and turned in the screw about half a turn works great seems odd that this can just happen.. is that sign of wear?
Those valves do start to get worn. The balls on the detent get some wear and you will have to turn the pressure up a little to get it to fully retract. I like to put a T with a gauge on the inlet of the valve so you can see what pressure the return kick out is operating at and what pressure the relief is set out.
 
I should really get a new valve or at least the rebuild parts for mine. When the oil is cold vs warm I can change up to 2full turns. I just leave the jamb nut loose and adjust on the fly as ik going.


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Is there a certain psi it should be? Or is just whatever seems/looks right also I just added cylinder stops to reduce the long stroke would that affect anything and also can I leave them on or should I take off when done using
 
No certain psi it’s supposed to kick out. Just somewhere between not holding and not Kicking out. I was told that the rod collars or stroke limiting collars I think your talking about (the blocks that clamp onto the rod to limit stroke), are not very good for log splitter applications. The repeated force where they make do contact on the cylinder takes the seal out or cracks the end cap. Just what I heard.




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The clamp on rod collars for stroke limiting work fine, as long as they are relieved in the center and don’t hit the rod seal area. Most cylinders the rod seal is protected but in some cases the flat collars can hit the seal.
there is an Internet video where the guy claims that using the stop collars pulled the rod end off of the threads. That happened, but it was defective manufacturing or bending moment on loose threads in some way. Reputable cylinders are designed for full pressure push and pull and his theories were wrong, but it does take on a life of its own on the Internet.

that’s the classic theory of ‘you changed the windshield windshield wiper blades and my engine blew up so something you did caused my problem.’ Maybe, but correlation does not prove causation.
 

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