Clean the gunk off the cylinder base where it meets the crankcase, usually found there.
Advice - 266XP First saw, needs repairs.
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Yep.....if a 266 it should say Mahle on the cyl base......if it is the 66 cyl should be a SK cyl.......pretty familiar with this family but I'm not that good with the Tomos saws....
So I cleaned a bunch of crude off the base of the cylinder and on one side it says Mahle. On the other side is
50ZN13 W10
So based on the Mahle cylinder and 50ZN13(which is for a 266), it's a 266. One other member said he had a 50ZN13 W5 on a 1985 266SE. Can anyone explain the W10? If it's a revised casting, it would suggest the saw is later than 1983. Another member "Ozhoo", said 1985 was when they changed to the Tilly 224 carb.
50ZN13 W10
So based on the Mahle cylinder and 50ZN13(which is for a 266), it's a 266. One other member said he had a 50ZN13 W5 on a 1985 266SE. Can anyone explain the W10? If it's a revised casting, it would suggest the saw is later than 1983. Another member "Ozhoo", said 1985 was when they changed to the Tilly 224 carb.
I'm going to do a compression test as soon as I can borrow my nephews gauge. What would be considered acceptable to clean it up and run it as is? And again thanks to everyone who has helped me with advice and knowledge.
Anything over 150 lbs would be good for these saws, my mint one will blow a little over 160, its not broke in yet so it might go higher with some run time, maybe not. The 266 always feels like it has more compression that it really has, the recoil line spool is a tad undersized diameter wise, run as much recoil line on one as possible. It helps with pulling them over, the line must be as wide as the spool or it will overlap on recoiling and cause jamming when pulled upon.
That was me. It has a knee-link inertia trigger chainbrake which was introduced with 272 & 268. 266, 61 & 66 had the earlier metal handle style.
Are you saying the 266SE, and 266XP should all have metal brakes? If I search 266SE and 266XP, i find plenty with the later plastic handle mine has. Even though mine has been apart in the past, every other piece on it appears to be original. From what I've learned, early models had the metal brake and later ones were fitted with plastic ones. Either way, something is wrong with it. It wouldn't release and I had to slide the band off the drum. Even off the saw, it doesn't fully go back to release.
Either brake type should work on any 266. Crankcase and ignition details were changed for the 268, 272 and later 61 but nothing that affects the chainbrake operation.
It could be that some 266s were fitted with the later chainbrakes in some markets. Here the change coincided with the replacement of the 266 with the 272.
Can you post a pic of the brake band side of the clutch cover? Maybe something missing or needs adjustment, pics help a whole lot.
I don't expect these will necessarily help with the chainbrake problems but I've attached 2 documents which might be generally informative.
A 1991 model 61 IPL which refers you to panel "S" for the earlier style parts.
A 1980s 266 operators manual.
A 1991 model 61 IPL which refers you to panel "S" for the earlier style parts.
A 1980s 266 operators manual.
MIne would have been built at Tomos and sold here in Canada if that matters for the brake. I just took some pics but it's still pretty dirty. The handle barely moves back and forth and the there is no movement from the band itself when giggling the handle. I also just got offered a disassembled Rancher for free with new parts. I'm grabbing it regardless, but is it a good saw?
How hard and expensive is it to find a better cover. This one is damaged from the metal handle rubbing the case.
How hard and expensive is it to find a better cover. This one is damaged from the metal handle rubbing the case.
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That brake is possibly just fine- but is stuck in the engaged position with crud and or rust. Take the screws out and remove the spring cover plate- soak the workings in diesel for a couple of days, clean out as much crud as you can and see if it starts working.
If not after that- take the whole workings apart and clean each piece up- just pay attention as to how it all fits together as you pull it apart.
If not after that- take the whole workings apart and clean each piece up- just pay attention as to how it all fits together as you pull it apart.
Look under your top cover.should be date stamped.mines a silver tag and it's there.
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Like 100.00 for that clutch cover.there still available [emoji16]
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No silver tag under the top cover. Just Made in Sweden a round circle with either 68 or 89 in the center. If thats the date it has 12 sections around the 89 with 4 of them having dots so it would be 4 month of 89 but my silver tag with the serial number starts with a 3??
On a side note, I got a Rancher 50 for free today. Disassembled with no bar or chain. New piston and jug but the jug looks cheap so not sure the quality.
On a side note, I got a Rancher 50 for free today. Disassembled with no bar or chain. New piston and jug but the jug looks cheap so not sure the quality.
At least the band is still intact but the brake is tripped. To get some leverage on the setup I have dropped two bolts through the mounting stud holes and then clamped the ends of the bolts in my bench vise.One can get a good pull on the brake handle this way but the whole brake assembly needs to be cleaned up as already stated by Bob.
