Advice: what chainsaw is (really) dependable?

[Maintenance supervisor]

Are you trying to tell me that there are saws smaller than a 372. That would be impossible. I think I am at least a hundred and twenty still using a Stihl 070 for limbing once in a while. However when I grab a 372 wow what a difference. Super super featherweight. Thanks

In your profile you have your age set at 120

 

[59Billy]

In your profile you have your age set at 120

Another one of them young whippersnappers...

 

[Wood Doctor]

I finally decided on the Stihl MS261 C-M, I can pick it up at the dealer next week.

Thanks again for all your help and advice, much appreciated!

Be careful of the choke rod's connection to the master control lever. It's a bad design and eventually it wears so that the rod easily breaks loose and the saw will not start if it does. Only sure fix is to replace the master control lever. Ask the dealer about it and let him show you the engineering. To see it, you have to remove the shroud:

Stihl should never have released this design. Just MHO.

 

[Okie294life]

Are you trying to tell me that there are saws smaller than a 372. That would be impossible. I think I am at least a hundred and twenty still using a Stihl 070 for limbing once in a while. However when I grab a 372 wow what a difference. Super super featherweight. Thanks

You must be from the pacific NW or something. I worked with a dude from Washington and asked him what kinda saw he had, and he said a echo 590 Timberwolf.....good little limb saw. I told him dude you are so full of s hit.

 

[newforest]

2nd thread tonight I am reading with same basic question. I skipped page 2 & 3 here though so apologies if this repeats.

“Pro” grade saws will cost you more up-front but save you more on the back-end. They also sometimes have better power:weight ratios, which makes life a little nicer for the person running the saw all day.

I would also suggest that local distance to a parts counter can be a good factor to consider as you make a final decision on which brand to purchase.

 

[mountainlake]

I'm sitting by my parts counter right now. Steve

 

[infoquest500]

Be careful of the choke rod's connection to the master control lever. It's a bad design and eventually it wears so that the rod easily breaks loose and the saw will not start if it does. Only sure fix is to replace the master control lever. Ask the dealer about it and let him show you the engineering. To see it, you have to remove the shroud:
View attachment 881275
Stihl should never have released this design. Just MHO.

Thanks a lot for that extra information, Wood Doctor! I suppose that is a design that can be found in all stihls with a M-Tronic system (since they have a different control lever compared to the non-M-Tronic models)?

 

[mrman21]

This is always an option ... no engine... prefer a swedsaw myself.

Reliability, typically depends on maintenance and upkeep.

The only chainsaw that starts first pull every time.

 

[Oldtoolsnewproblems]

Well it's a small sample size, but I gotta say my 266 I found in the trash a few years ago looking like it got but by a truck has been pretty solid, only issues came after I tried to rebuild it...
Brought it home, cleaned the carb and put it back together with the old gaskets, starts and runs great every time, dispite only having 90psi compression. I put in a new piston (unneeded from the look of the old one) and new ring (old ring was .135 gap) and it really feels like it should now.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Thanks a lot for that extra information, Wood Doctor! I suppose that is a design that can be found in all stihls with a M-Tronic system (since they have a different control lever compared to the non-M-Tronic models)?

I believe the 661 is a similar design but the 441 is a better design. Not sure about others because these are the only M-tronic IPL's that I have. Here's the Stihl MS661 choke rod connection:
Yet another snap-on, metal rod to plastic. The plastic will wear and not hold in time.

 

[tfp]

The 261 is a great choice. I got one two years ago with a 20 inch bar running .325 chain. Can’t get a bar that long with LP chain although one may be coming soon as I think they are available in Europe. It handles cutting the full bar length in dead Australian hardwood, but you have to be spot on with your sharpening. My MS250 cuts it’s full bar length without stalling but its not fast. You said in a post above you are small and can’t get much weight behind the saw. You won’t need to if you spend as much time as you can refining your sharpening skills. Any saw I have, from a MS250 to my 460 magnum to my friends 880, is just left to drop through the wood under its own weight. Train yourself so when you feel like you need to put weight on the saw to get it to cut, it’s time to stop and sharpen. Run good fuel and oil and keep the air filter clean and the saw will last a lifetime.

Remember to turn the oiler all the way up. I haven’t used a stihl saw in my lifetime that ever put out too much oil on the Max setting.

I think you made the right saw choice - it will get through your occasional big stuff, and your arms are going to thank you since most of your usage is limbing and general cleanup.

 

[infoquest500]

I believe the 661 is a similar design but the 441 is a better design. Not sure about others because these are the only M-tronic IPL's that I have. Here's the Stihl MS661 choke rod connection:
View attachment 883726Yet another snap-on, metal rod to plastic. The plastic will wear and not hold in time.

Thanks for the additional information, Wood Doctor!

 

[infoquest500]

The 261 is a great choice. I got one two years ago with a 20 inch bar running .325 chain. Can’t get a bar that long with LP chain although one may be coming soon as I think they are available in Europe. It handles cutting the full bar length in dead Australian hardwood, but you have to be spot on with your sharpening. My MS250 cuts it’s full bar length without stalling but its not fast. You said in a post above you are small and can’t get much weight behind the saw. You won’t need to if you spend as much time as you can refining your sharpening skills. Any saw I have, from a MS250 to my 460 magnum to my friends 880, is just left to drop through the wood under its own weight. Train yourself so when you feel like you need to put weight on the saw to get it to cut, it’s time to stop and sharpen. Run good fuel and oil and keep the air filter clean and the saw will last a lifetime.

Remember to turn the oiler all the way up. I haven’t used a stihl saw in my lifetime that ever put out too much oil on the Max setting.

I think you made the right saw choice - it will get through your occasional big stuff, and your arms are going to thank you since most of your usage is limbing and general cleanup.

Thanks for the tips. tfp!

I'm not really small in length, but more so in overall mass. . I was wondering if the saw would be too "strong", not having any prior experience with pro-saws. Now that I've used it for a couple of tanks sawing-time, I see that there was no need to worry. It is a strong saw, but handles very nicely. I am glad I did not choose a heavier (weight) saw. The MS261 C-M is a joy to work with. Just as you say: no need at all to put weight on it. It cuts like a hot knife through butter! I'm working on a couple of poplars, now, which is of course very light wood, but, earlier, it handled the heavier old oak very well, too. It does like its fuel, I must say (or maybe the fuel tank is just not that large..).

About the oiler.. the dealer told me to keep it in halfway position...

 

[sean donato]

Thanks for the tips. tfp!

I'm not really small in length, but more so in overall mass. . I was wondering if the saw would be too "strong", not having any prior experience with pro-saws. Now that I've used it for a couple of tanks sawing-time, I see that there was no need to worry. It is a strong saw, but handles very nicely. I am glad I did not choose a heavier (weight) saw. The MS261 C-M is a joy to work with. Just as you say: no need at all to put weight on it. It cuts like a hot knife through butter! I'm working on a couple of poplars, now, which is of course very light wood, but, earlier, it handled the heavier old oak very well, too. It does like its fuel, I must say (or maybe the fuel tank is just not that large..).

About the oiler.. the dealer told me to keep it in halfway position...

Crank the oiler up, no reason not to, just helps the chain from wearing. Jmo of course. Glad you like it, if they are build like the old 026 saws it will last forever with a bit of care.

 

[BangBang77]

I run the oiler on my 261 (and every other saw) maxed out. More oil = better bar and chain life in my opinion.