Discussion in 'Milling & Saw Mills' started by Muzzleblastm38, Dec 3, 2019.
ok with a new ms660 clone kit how many gas tank before i can start milling
I would just heat cycle it a few times and start milling.
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1 tank of regular cutting.
1 tank of idling for 15 seconds or so every 30 seconds of milling
1 tank of idling for 15 seconds or so every 1 minute of milling
1 tank of idling for 15 seconds every 5 minutes of milling
Then just mill like the dickens.
This is just what came to my mind...I've never done this nor do I know if it would help at all....but it sounds good to me.
The Chihls break in quick. Or they break...
I’ve heard heat cycles are for the gaskets on dirtbikes.
I started wailing on mine after the third tank. Probably a little early because it kept getting stronger for at least another couple of tanks.
Break in hoo haw is just that.
Rings seat equally as well with or without the procedure. Balls to the wall with the saw, tune it accordingly and the rings will seat sooner.
Milling is the best way to break in a saw, I have done it to three mine back when I got em and they pull nice and strong.
I ran five tanks of rich (25:1) fuel though my last new Chin saw. Had a lot of bucking to do anyway.
Then, I re-tuned it (down a few rpms), changed my oil mix to my usual 40:1, cleaned up my sparkplug, lowered my rakers and started milling big hardwood.
Did it matter to the saw? I dunno, but it made me feel more confident in the saw before I ever stuck it 32 inches through a pecan log
Heat seats the rings quicker. I get a load on my saws and bury the bar. Get them hot and work then hard. Sounds like milling should do the trick! Out a tank of fuel through it then give it the business. Milling is hard on stuff anyway, don’t think a soft break in will make any difference haha.
When I bought my brand new 660 I asked the dealer if milling would void the warranty, he said no. I asked for 25', 36", and 47" bars. Whatever Stihls closest to 48" was. He said he could do the 25 and 36, but if I wanted the 4 foot bar I'd have to come back the next day. If he sold the 4 foot with the saw that would void the warranty. I asked how long to break it in for milling. He said put it on the mill first, start it up and by the time you get it squared up on the rails it will be ready. I have had zero issues with it. I cut about ten cord of wood with the 25" bar per year and mill a few Oaks every year with it. I milled with it a lot the first few years, now I have too many stacks of air drying wood around the house.
If the saw is tuned for milling, and the tuning is checked after a couple of tanks of fuel, and quality lube is used the saw can be used straight away for milling. If it's used outta the box without being tuned for milling and you hit a wide, long hard log then you could have a problem BUT that could be the case even with a couple of hundred hours of bucking only on the saw.
Before milling I ran 4 or 5 tanks of fuel on my new 880 just while bucking but I alter found out it was unnecessary. I've also heard of using 25:1 and then 35:1 and then 50:1 when running in a saw which is nonsense in my book.
I think the whole break-in thing is un necessary. Any new saw I have ever bought, I fired it up, let it idle a few minutes and started cutting. Never had any problems.
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My 95cc gets about 4 or 5 passes I believe before she starts leaning out. That’s live wood 2” thick at about 7’ long and probably 14” wide. This includes idling time in between cuts and setting up of the jig for the next pass
I am probably misinterpreting what you mean by "starts leaning out." Do you mean good or bad? Reaching peak performance or reaching a dangerous, over-lean situation?
Apology for dumb question in advance.
No it’s not dumb at all. I mean that I can hear and feel the Rpms increase. This always tells me that the fuel coming in has air bubbles and the tank is starting to run dry.
this is actually leaning out the engine regardless of your jetting. It will damage the engine under the right conditions if you keep going.
I don’t have a fuel gauge to tell me when I’m getting low so this is one way to tell. A better practice would be to find out how many passes you can make just before this happens, stop and fill the tank even though it’s not completely empty.
I run a little rich, so when the mixture starts to get lean in the cut, Rpms in this situation increase and you start to feel more power as well.
Yeah that's a god tip.
I fill the tank(s) after each pass regardless.
So far my runs are minimum 10'Lx20"W so... the tank is run down anyway.
I've heard that leaning sound once.... it's spooky.
Good call, I mean really you can’t go wrong doing that.
a dirt bike company has made some prototype filling nozzles for stihl in which you can fill up without unscrewing a cap. Some type of quick connect system without a lock. It looked very impressive and stopped filling once it was full with some kind of valve.
only thing is that there is nothing for the oil... if you ran an aux Oiler and had the setting for the saw on low this little device could save a lot of time I suppose...
Anywho that turd wranglerstar did a video on it
Yeah I saw that device... someone posted a link in Chainsaw section.
IIRC It seemed a bit spendy at the time and made for Stihl only... my milling powerhead is a Husvarna.... but it would be cool.
Seems like that would only be useful on a 40 or 50' log. I can get 3 boards off of an 8'X 24-30" log. I'm going to have the mill off anyway after each cut. Just fill up every 3rd cut.
So what mixes are people using for the mill saws? I was running 50:1 with my 3120xp in the woods for the first time (no milling) but tomorrow I'll be milling up a 32+" red oak and I've seen suggestions for 40:1, 50:1, etc. Should it be somewhere in between?
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