Alternative Starting Methods?

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Don’t you put the chain brake on when drop starting or ground starting?
Yes, if it's slippery, or the saw will start with it on.
Some saws won't start at all, unless the chain is free to turn on half choke until the saw warms up. .... But I would recommend that it should be on if possible.
several of my saws have the chain brake removed after it stuck, or it was missing when I got them & never replaced. I don't consider it a priority.
 
Get a battery powered saw, if you are close to an outlet get an electric saw. I know more than a few folks that have serious medical issues that have made the switch to some sort of electric saw, it works for them. Yeah, they cut slower, then again these folks move slower.

If you cannot pull it over, then it is not for you.
 
Ever see a hydraulic or marine chainsaw? No pull-starts on those.

However I do see where you are going and partially agree. Not really a fan of the easy-start for the same reason.
91a46e237be9c0498ee0d2b92842fe6f.jpg
I think the earliest chainsaws were hydraulic, and then they incorporated their own engine. :yes:

I would still want to have enough arm / shoulder strength to keep it under control and not turn my face into hamburger.
 
Do not want to even think about trying to drop start my 084 with a 48" blade on it. I am not a big person, keeping the monsters on the ground with my foot through the handle + one hand suits me just fine. In the winter with snow and boots then a small board through that area that I am applying pressure with my foot on cold starts.
Seems to Me I saw a video of someone hanging onto the saw between legs- it got away from him.
I am kinda partial to keeping all my appendages connected to the main trunk- they work better that way.
 


I'm looking for ideas to build an easier way of starting chainsaws, particularly larger displacement saws or one's that are just cranky to get going, I've seen a bunch of methods and decided on using this 12 volt starter mounted to the receiver hitch on the front or rear bumper. if anyone has any ideas, advice or if you've made your own alternate starting method please post up some pics and info.

The starter will drive the flywheel the same way the pull starter does using the pawl slots.


View attachment 856913

This Toyota starter should be strong enough for starting any chainsaw.

View attachment 856914
 
Starting big saws, especially with high compression just requires technique. I'm kinda of the mind that if you cannot start it, barring temporary injury, you ought not to run it .Madsens has a smaller one armed tech that started my ported 880 with ease. Now drop starting 101b Macs is tough I'll grant you. However, drop starting those big Macs is the way they start easier. When you start these saws you need to be committed in the pull. I drop start my 125 with 50" bar without issue. Longer bars, like 60" + should be placed on top of wood or over a log. BTW, mosf of these saws start easier when there is no decomp. Again, learn the technique. A stock 880 with decomp should be a pussycat to start period. An automotive starter is pretty ridiculous as is leaving the flywheel cover off.
 
Problem with having a seperate electric starter is having to return to the electric starter every time you want to start the saw.
The whole point of a petrol chainsaw is it operates independent of another power source.
Might be a better idea to sell the petrol saw and use the money to buy a battery-pack saw.

On the subject of drop starting saws -
Been drop starting saws since 14yo ( Back when a 120cc saw without chain brake or decompression was normal) and now nearly 60 = never had a worry.
Ground starting a saw is harder on the back.
To ground start a saw safely you need flat clear ground - not much of that around in rocky scrub and hill country.
Try ground starting a saw from 60 foot up a gum-tree ?
Ground start a saw knee deep in branches and offcuts ?
Drop starting gives a faster start rope pull, which gives easier starting.
TO each their own - but most people who say drop starting is dangerous have never learned how to properly drop start a saw.
 
TO each their own - but most people who say drop starting is dangerous have never learned how to properly drop start a saw.

Never learned to drop start, but sure do know that you don't use your back to start a saw. Most people have arms for a reason.
 
I normally prop the rear handle sort of between my legs, under my right knee. Hold front handle with left hand, pull starter handle with right.
That has worked fine for most saws I've run.
The bigger ones being 2100, 288, 880, 660.

If the saw has a long bar where it's very nose heavy, rest end on a stump, log, etc, hold rear handle with left hand, right hand to start.

Falling over while foot is in the rear handle? You need to be leaning back using the knee that's on the ground for balance and support.

Had a friend laugh at me for starting my saw "by the book"... "real men" drop start saws.

I've had to leave a saw for my buddy to start if my back is acting up. Fine to pull 2-3 times on my saws, but customer saws at times can give a person a real workout.
Would be handy to have electric start of some sort for that.
 
I met a guy who had one of these, he fired that sucker up using the electric start in just a few seconds cold! It impressed the heck out of me and I wonder why no new saws have utilized that technology using our much smaller and more powerful batteries.
 

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