Alternative Starting Methods?

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Once I learned the how to start it between my thighs I never looked back. Safer, easy way of doing it, and easier on the starter parts. Especially true with the saws I build and handle. Can be difficult drop starting a 80cc power head only that makes over 200 psi.
Me too... Have permanent bruises between knees and junk...
 
Don’t you put the chain brake on when drop starting or ground starting?
On a 200t, i use the chainbrake all the time. When limbing with 70 - 90cc saws I often use the brake. But never with the big ones. Most big old Macs, Homies, and Pioneers didn't even have brakes for the type of jobs they were intended. 090's never had brakes. And I saw no reason to ever use it on my 088 of 880.
 
One thing I would note, is anyone who struggles to start a gas saw- I have recently been super impressed by the Milwaukee m18 saw...
electric is the future.
M18 out cuts my 291 stihl speed wise, & a full 12 ah will cut a full 5.5ft bed of 18" fire wood.
My uncle bought one, and has cut a full 2 car garage full of wood with it this year.
I cut with him last night, and he out cut my 291 with ease:)
 
One thing I would note, is anyone who struggles to start a gas saw- I have recently been super impressed by the Milwaukee m18 saw...
electric is the future.
M18 out cuts my 291 stihl speed wise, & a full 12 ah will cut a full 5.5ft bed of 18" fire wood.
My uncle bought one, and has cut a full 2 car garage full of wood with it this year.
I cut with him last night, and he out cut my 291 with ease:)
Something must be wrong or the chain dull on that 50cc Stihl. My Makita 36 volt, much as I like it, will not out cut even a 35cc saw. The only electric saw, not battery, I've had that would be close to a gas saw was an mse 220 Stihl. It had 70cc torque but not chain speed. Thats the issue with electric/battery saws is lack of chain speed.
 
Something must be wrong or the chain dull on that 50cc Stihl. My Makita 36 volt, much as I like it, will not out cut even a 35cc saw. The only electric saw, not battery, I've had that would be close to a gas saw was an mse 220 Stihl. It had 70cc torque but not chain speed. Thats the issue with electric/battery saws is lack of chain speed.
I have used the makita 36v, and my stihl 193T beats it hands down in speed.
no comparison from makita rear handle 36v to the Milwaukee.
 
I have used the makita 36v, and my stihl 193T beats it hands down in speed.
no comparison from makita rear handle 36v to the Milwaukee.
Good to know as the Makita seems to have the same slow chain speed of all the top electrics I've had or tried. I still like the Makita and electrics for around the home usage. The quiet and no mixing fuel is great as your not running a 28 or 36 inch bar with them anyway. Maybe the OP would do better with a Stihl E30, as long as they have 3 phase and can lift it, no pull starting anyway.
 
My latest helper for starting a gas-powered chain saw is a bucket assistant:
Bucket Assistant.JPG
It's just the right height, sturdy, and light. Never complains and easy to transport. That's an overweight Stihl Farm Boss resting on top in the Pic. Sure beats kneeling on the ground and the bar/chain has lots of clearance. Give the bucket assistant a try. Just MHO.
 
To each their own and Im not about to give anybody advice on how to start a saw. What I will say is this: I have NEVER started a saw like the manual says to do it. Im not about to put that handle behind my right knee, brace ANYTHING off my left leg, and try to start it! That's just a recipe for DISASTER IMHO. Newer saws with a fast idle setting on the choke, I hold the saw in my left hand and crank with my right, kind of a semi drop start maneuver. With the older designs, you've pretty much got to sit it on the ground, put a toe through the handle to give it some throttle, hold front handle with left hand, then crank with the right. Generally speaking though, I drop start them with the bottom of the bar across a stump, limb, etc... Yes, this is a little harder on the starter and housing, but so what? Those things can be replaced. Then again, what do I know? Ive only been using chainsaws for 45 years working in the woods every day to make a living.
One more thing, I NEVER set the brake when starting a saw either. Some saws WILL NOT start with the brake on.
 
Starting big saws, especially with high compression just requires technique. I'm kinda of the mind that if you cannot start it, barring temporary injury, you ought not to run it .Madsens has a smaller one armed tech that started my ported 880 with ease. Now drop starting 101b Macs is tough I'll grant you. However, drop starting those big Macs is the way they start easier. When you start these saws you need to be committed in the pull. I drop start my 125 with 50" bar without issue. Longer bars, like 60" + should be placed on top of wood or over a log. BTW, mosf of these saws start easier when there is no decomp. Again, learn the technique. A stock 880 with decomp should be a pussycat to start period. An automotive starter is pretty ridiculous as is leaving the flywheel cover off.

Long bars the only way to start the saw is drop starting, I’d love to see the some of these guys try starting a long bar up on a spring board.


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I teach chainsaw safety class for the State park service, so I HAVE to demonstrate the "correct" way to start a chainsaw, both on the ground and the leg lock method .
I mostly run older saws myself (ProMac 700 is my work saw) and I will utilize a log when starting the old gear drives , but for a big saw like a Homelite super 1050A I put it on the ground and roll the piston over tdc an fire it off , 088 the same. I'm short at 5'8" though, drop starting anything with a 24" bar is pushing it and my center of gravity is good for ground starting. If I was taller and awkward when bent over it would make sense to drop start. Oh I generally never use the chain brake when starting a saw unless I'm teaching a class.
The electric start McCulloch has already been invented so why doesn't the OP buy one and put better batteries in it?
I'm also gonna have to go with the guys saying that "if you can't start it ,don't use it "
I do wish my Super 1050A had a dam decomp! That saw is the "A game" of starting!, but I have 2 their so fun to cut with.
 
Thanks to everyone for your input and suggestions, I've changed my mind on using a stationary starter motor and opted to mount the chainsaw in a receiver hitch mounted post vise, as I was pull starting my MS260 in the video due to my injury it hurt like hell ! so my decision to pick up an old used starter cover and modify it to use a cordless drill became even more obvious, the saw has been sitting in the truck for weeks now with cooler temps but still started pretty good.ChainsawVise20.JPG

 
That's an awfully nice vise! Although, my recommendation would be to start it with the chain brake engaged; if the saw slips, it could get 'exciting'!

I was working with an 'old guy' (80?) once at a volunteer project, who could not start his Poulan. He would walk up to different people and implore, "Start my saw for me?". When he could not find someone convenient, he would place the guide bar underneath a log, and pull the starter rope against that resistance. So, if you had a sacrificial 2x4 bolted under your bumper, you might be able to do the same thing without the vise installed. And, with the chain brake on.

Philbert
 
That's an awfully nice vise! Although, my recommendation would be to start it with the chain brake engaged; if the saw slips, it could get 'exciting'!

I was working with an 'old guy' (80?) once at a volunteer project, who could not start his Poulan. He would walk up to different people and implore, "Start my saw for me?". When he could not find someone convenient, he would place the guide bar underneath a log, and pull the starter rope against that resistance. So, if you had a sacrificial 2x4 bolted under your bumper, you might be able to do the same thing without the vise installed. And, with the chain brake on.

Philbert
Thanks for the advice !
 
One thing I would note, is anyone who struggles to start a gas saw- I have recently been super impressed by the Milwaukee m18 saw...
electric is the future.
M18 out cuts my 291 stihl speed wise, & a full 12 ah will cut a full 5.5ft bed of 18" fire wood.
My uncle bought one, and has cut a full 2 car garage full of wood with it this year.
I cut with him last night, and he out cut my 291 with ease:)

I think the m18 is the saw that is being tried on a couple of the utility trucks. There is a big saw and small saw, the two saws use different batteries. The bigger saw is supposedly impressive, the smaller is not so much.
 
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