Any Machinist out there that could help me with a chainsaw dyno?

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chadihman

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So guys I'm waiting on a shaft and for my dyno build. I bugged the machinist a few times nicely after two weeks passed after the day he said he could probably fit it in. The poor guy is just to busy and I hate to keep bugging him. Is there any member out there that could make the shaft and ship it to me? The shaft is pretty simple. The shaft needs to be a total of 9 1/2" long. 1" diameter x 8" and turned down to 1/2" diameter on the last 1 1/2" of the end. The 1/2" end needs a 1/8" key way cut and a 1/4" x 2" key way needs cut on the center of the 1" shaft section. Let me know if you would be interested in making this. The shaft will spin up to 4000 rpms.










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So guys I'm waiting on a shaft and for my dyno build. I bugged the machinist a few times nicely after two weeks passed after the day he said he could probably fit it in. The poor guy is just to busy and I hate to keep bugging him. Is there any member out there that could make the shaft and ship it to me? The shaft is pretty simple. The shaft needs to be a total of 9 1/2" long. 1" diameter x 8" and turned down to 1/2" diameter on the last 1 1/2" of the end. The 1/2" end needs a 1/8" key way cut and a 1/4" x 2" key way needs cut on the center of the 1" shaft section. Let me know if you would be interested in making this. The shaft will spin up to 4000 rpms.










'


I would do it for you but you have your own lathe. Just make the darn shaft. You can cut the key ways on your lathe also. I would use my mill but you can do it on a lathe, its just not as easy. You have to learn sometime, it might as well be now.

If you cant figure it out, I will do it for you but you have to be here when I do it or you will never learn. It will cost you a coffee or two.

Later
Dan
 
Just go get 1" shaft stock that already has a keyway cut, then use your lathe to turn down the end. With a 1/2" diameter you can put the shaft in the tool holder and chuck an end mill in the lathe head to cut the keyway on the stub.
 
It is possible but the set up is very difficult and time consuming. Put the tooling in the chuck, the setup of the part to be milled is very difficult - has to be on center, must be done with an Aloris tool holder with micro adjustment to be held on center or position for the key slot
 
It is possible but the set up is very difficult and time consuming. Put the tooling in the chuck, the setup of the part to be milled is very difficult - has to be on center, must be done with an Aloris tool holder with micro adjustment to be held on center or position for the key slot

Keyways centers are usually not that critical. I'd say +-0.005 would be more than enough. Most of the time when cut on a mill they are just eyeballed on center using a trick method. Check this video out around 4 min in. Look at how he has it setup in the mill so you don't have to run the shaft in and then look at the method he uses to eyeball the keyway in. He's cutting a keyway in under a minute of setup.

[video=youtube;e0TTUQkU0d0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0TTUQkU0d0[/video]
 
Do you have a sketch or drawing of the part?

Have lathe.....also interested in making a dyno. Check my trimmer thread.
 
Keyways centers are usually not that critical. I'd say +-0.005 would be more than enough. Most of the time when cut on a mill they are just eyeballed on center using a trick method. Check this video out around 4 min in. Look at how he has it setup in the mill so you don't have to run the shaft in and then look at the method he uses to eyeball the keyway in. He's cutting a keyway in under a minute of setup.

I wont argue that neat "trick", but thats still not a lathe. and he's just "eyeballing" it IMO.

I will agree that what the OP is using the shaft for....5 thou is probably more than enough.
And square stock keys are meant to be filed IMO anyway.

Search Harris UB-27 Binder.
Its a book binder line.
Once assembled directly across the street from my house.

Directly out of highschool and while attending college I worked for a company called Prim Hall that refurbished these machines. Every bearing, every shaft, every McGill cam follower was replaced. The machine was completely torn down to the frame and completely rebuilt using newer technology. I filed keys of all shapes and sized for a month. Filed all the skin off my fingertips. It sucked.
The whole rebuild process took close to 12 months. It was really cool, dirty work but I learned a wealth of information.

The original company, Sheridan Iron Works then later to become Harris Graphics went under in the late 80's. Dad had been a lathe operator there for many years. Then a few years later this company formed called Prim Hall http://primhall.com/...basically a conglomeration of the employees from Harris. Dad worked there for 20+yrs as machine shop supervisor. Towards the end his 20yrs is where I came into the picture on the shop floor doing assembly & sub assembly and he became a customer sales rep.

Now dad has moved to Fort Lauderdale and is right back in the machine shop again. Supervising and programming in yet another machine shop. http://dkia.net/
 
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Not sure why this is such a debate. Milling a keyway on a shaft centerline is pretty straightforward on a mill: setup in vise, tram shaft with indicator to ensure alignment, edgefind the side of the shaft, step over half the diameter, and you are there. I guess the trick is having a lathe *and* a mill. :rock:
 
oh heck,
just have him grind a HSS bit to desired width
and stick it in the tool holder sideways.
Now, while the shaft is still chucked,
touch off, dial in a couple thou per pass (in one direction)
and travel that saddle up and down the ways
till he's got the gash that he's lookin for.

He can tell if it's on center, when it raises a burr
on both edges of the key slot at the same time.
we used to eyeball 'em on the mill by the burr & it works pretty well.
 
Not sure why this is such a debate. Milling a keyway on a shaft centerline is pretty straightforward on a mill: setup in vise, tram shaft with indicator to ensure alignment, edgefind the side of the shaft, step over half the diameter, and you are there. I guess the trick is having a lathe *and* a mill. :rock:

Edge finders work good
 
Here's a sketch
dynoshaft_zps5195f84a.png
 
1. What material did you want this made from?
2. Can you tolerate a radius at the root corner where the step from the 1/2" dia to the 1" dia? Not essential, but good practice from a fatigue/fracture mechanics standpoint
3. On the 2" x 1/4" keyway, what depth?
4. Did you want chamfers on the edges?
5. Should both keyways be on the same side, or opposite sides for better balance?
6. Both keyway details will need a full radius at each closed end due to being cut by an endmill.
 
What have you determined will be the width and diameter of your rotating mass?

i think your asking about a flywheel size? I'm not using a flywheel. The shaft will have a 25 pin sprocket wedge locked to the center of the 1" shaft on the 1/4" key. One inch bearings on both ends of the 1" shaft. A lovejoy adapter is going on the 1/2" section of the shaft.
 
1. What material did you want this made from?
2. Can you tolerate a radius at the root corner where the step from the 1/2" dia to the 1" dia? Not essential, but good practice from a fatigue/fracture mechanics standpoint
3. On the 2" x 1/4" keyway, what depth?
4. Did you want chamfers on the edges?
5. Should both keyways be on the same side, or opposite sides for better balance?
6. Both keyway details will need a full radius at each closed end due to being cut by an endmill.

\1 I'm not sure what material would be best. 4000 rpm and little torque will be applied. 2 There can be a taper down to 1/2". If the shaft needs to be a half inch longer because of it thats ok. 3 half the depth for the 1/4" keyway 1/8" deep. 4 Chamfers would be good. 5 The key ways can be cut oposite sides for balance. 6 The keys will be cut to fit. A radius on both sides is fine.
 
A little attention to detail can be helpful in machine building. The tolerance of the the 1" dim for instance, depending on your bearing ID, should probably be 1.000 +.000, -.0005 or.001, the same with the .500 section. As to material, probably any steel bar stock with a suitable ground finish will do. I'll see what I have laying around the shop. Keyways should be close to line to line, as keystock is usually on size, no problem.
I have a Monarch EE and 3-4 axis CNC mill[and also a Bridgeport], so this should be fairly straightforward. I'll take a look at it this afternoon, if you want. JinNJ
 

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