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ascending gear wish list

treeslayer

treeslayer

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Looking in the new Sherrills catalog at all the stuff for ascending
and curious what works the best for other people.
I want to be able to quickly go up to 70' under my own power.
money is no issue, I want to learn more about rope climbing, and apply it to work. I don't do a lot of pruning, mostly takedowns, and getting up in a 4'-5' dia. tree using my old school method of walking up a tree pushing the friction knot is getting old.

this forum is a good opportunity for me to hear what better climbers use.
thanks
Dave
 
treeclimber165

treeclimber165

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What works for me may not work for you, but my main requirements for any of my equipment are lack of bulk and efficiency.
For longer rope ascents (trims, not removals- no gaffs) I usually use the SRT method. I set my rope in the desired crotch, tie a running bowline and run it up so I have a single rope cinched tight to my tie-in limb. To attach myself to the rope, I use one handled ascender (I like the grip on the Petzl) attached to my center D-rings using a loop runner and locking biner. Then I tie my standard Distel hitch and attach that to my D-rings below the handled ascender. I put my Pantin on my right foot and ascend.
The handled ascender is my main attachment, my friction hitch is my backup and the Pantin is simply to help me advance since I will never be able to footlock.
 
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treeclimber165

treeclimber165

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After reading Mike's response and re-reading your original post, looks like I was going off track.

Pushing your friction hitch? What type of friction hitch are you using? If you answer Blake's or tautline hitch, this is the area that needs attention.

I cannot remember ever combining gaffs and ascenders for ascents. I use ascenders for trees I'm not removing.
 
treeslayer

treeslayer

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Brian, you're not off track.
A lot of times I want to get to the top and set a pulley, descend and begin lowering limbs. I use a ladder sometimes for getting
to the first limb, but carrying a ladder around on my truck is not
efficient for me.
I could always ascend, rig the treetop, descend and then put on spikes when ready to begin takedown.

This exercise would be for some of the really big trees obviously.

I'll seach for SRT.

I used to use the tautline, switched to the blakes.:confused:
 
treeclimber165

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I've been using the Distel hitch since last year. Biggest single improvement I've ever made in my climbing career. For the hitch I'm using 8mm New England Sta-Set (identical outer cover as T-900 but inner braid is polyester). The only minor problem I've had with it is occassional locking when using a Blue Streak lifeline, probably due to the larger diameter as compared to most arborist lifelines. I'm playing with different lengths and using a 3-1 Distel instead of 4-1 on the Blue Streak.

Here's Sergio's picture of the hitch.
 
treeslayer

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brian, I like that knot, what device do you use to "tend" it?
in the picture its not that visible, but what do you use?

Mike, I've got the 2002 sherrills catalog. I'll be 40 on 4/14, and while I'm extremely fit, my body has never forgiven me for all the physical abuse we've shared.:D
I have experimented with footlocking, was not very satisfied, maybe due to poor choice of friction hitch and application. (also I did'nt practice it much.) what method you reccomend?

I'm willing to try any method, once I hear it from the right people.
Keep it coming, I appreciate it . (and my knees will appreciate it, spiking hurts after 3-4 hours) .

The SRT seach was a good suggestion, I'll be busy for a while!
God, I like this site.
 
treeclimber165

treeclimber165

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The small pulley shown tends the hitch. You never touch the hitch when advancing. You simply pull the tail of your lifeline and the pulley advances the hitch. Lightly pulling down on the top of the hitch allows you to descend. Let go of the hitch and it grabs.

Sergio uses the Petzl Fixe pulley, I use the tiny Petzl micropulley which is $8 cheaper and rated for 7000 lbs (in case I need to use it for other applications). Look at page 24 in your 2002 Sherrill catalog, items F and G. The Fixe uses a hollow rivet pin and mine uses a stainless bolt and locknuts.
 
BigJohn

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Keep a look out for post from our friend Daniel Murphy. He and I worked together and took a snapshot of the hitch and biner setup I like to use. He said he would send it to me but I gave him permision to post up here. If your reading Dan, don't hold out on the fellas.

Footlocking is definately the way to go and single line it great. You don't have to worry about isolating your line. I used to be able to hook up a tree pretty fast but it no comparison to footlocking. Imagine walking up a tree 40 in under 20 seconds if your trying and about minute if your taking your time.

I would suggest getting a good handle ascender. I really like the ones from kong. I have a double handled one but they also make a single handled one as well. Then you have to find a comfortable lengnth for the tether.

I been makeing up some spliced 16 strand climbing lines splice directly to the ascender and on the other end spliced to a captive eye biner. I just recently made up two for Jim Roach. His length is 2 ft even end of eye to end of eye. Anyone intrested let me know I'd be happy to some up for anyone intrested. I also stitch the eyes with 80# spectra to ensure it never comes out.
 
TREETX

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Footlocking is the way to go but is take some practice. And you have to be fresh and energetic to make it work. Try these "devices" before using them. I used the "mar-bars" at the TCC - big time POS. Made me more tired than footlocking and someone was tending the slack!!

.02
 
BigJohn

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Here is picture of a petzl handled ascender with a back up with some sta set. Works great but I rarely use a backup. I called on that today but not much was said.
 
BigJohn

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Actually this one I learned from Jim Roach. It is similar to the howard hitch. The twists seem to keep the right amount of set tension on the wraps. Also the bridge will tend itself without the pulley. The pulley does help but not needed and the pulley looks cool. I do use a distal once in awhile , 3 over 1 and 1 more uner 1. The extra 1 under keeps some of the tension off the top wraps.

The fly seems to burn up cords quicker than 16 strand. Roachy has been using some pumkin line from Fresco and seems to hold up really well. You can get a few weeks out of no problem. I am lucky to get a day out of sta set or the similar samson dbl braid 3/8.
 
Kneejerk Bombas

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Wow! You can get a whole day out of a tres cord!
I burn really fast down, keeping an eye on my cord, when it gets down to a strand or two I stop, using my feet, 'cus the cord would snap, then I carefully replace the worn cord with a new one, right in mid air, and drop away really fast again. Some climbers go so fast that the smoke from the burning tres cords blocks the veiw of the few remaining fibers, thus making it somewhat unsafe, but not me, I only go about 90 feet per second.
 
mikecross23

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Originally posted by BigJohn
Picture of asceder 16 strand splice.
Thanks for the idea BigJohn. I made one up. I've never spliced anything this short so I just made the two tapers overlap and added extra lock stitching. I tried to squeeze a round plastic rope thimble into the petzl ascension attachment point but it was too big. It came out nice though.:)

-Mike-
 
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