Discussion in 'Firewood, Heating and Wood Burning Equipment' started by svk, Jul 2, 2017.
Lookin good man
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spot on 5 pounds finished at the current length.
is there a particular reasoning for one length over the other or is it more about short to ease transport and cut weight but long and heavy enough to still drive a wedge?
For wedge pounding, a shorter handle will be easier to carry and/or wield. For actually felling a tree or bucking logs with an axe, it depends. My preferred axe for bucking is 4.4 lb on a 23" stick when standing on the ground, and for felling is around 30-32". For bucking while atop a log, longer handles can be an advantage, but too long 36+" and it just get's in the way.
I have have no intentions of bucking logs with this ax , mostly just drive poly wedge.
I hope this isn't the horrible brown color you get with the salt bath. I rather like it, and it took a couple hours to do.
what did you use for the metal treatment ?
Here's my fallers axe for wedge pounding and grubbing, it's a 3.75 lb Michigan that I hung on a 28" straight shaft and I carry it in an aluminum scabbard on the back of my saw belt.
I received my restored cruiser axe from @Multifaceted today. Will post up some pics when I have the phone. Very nice, especially the bluing and razor sharp edges!!!!
I already have some pictures I can post if you'd like. Did some tests with it and took photo evidence. One thing that I may not have mentioned — left of the Old Timer stamp is your Keen bit, right is the wider angle swamping/utility bit. 22.5° and 27.5° respectively. Let me know how it chops!
Sure go ahead and throw up the pics. I will post when I use it. If I can get into my cabin this weekend I will give it a try.
Here is what I was originally sent back in April (Sorry it took so long, been one of those years)
Here it is after grinding down the extreme roundness of the bits. I had to remove quite a lot of steel to straighten both sides.
I forgot to take pictures of the grinds before I did the black oxidation finish. Perhaps I was braindead from the hour or so I spent grinding both sides on a low-speed sander with a 60 -grit belt. The reflection and light gradient can kind of show the new grinds...
And here is the finished product amid a pile of ash logs.
Decided on a 22.5 degree grind for the main cutting bit, the keen edge (left side of 'Old Timer' marking)
Then 27.5 degrees on the swamping/utility bit (right side of the mark).
First chop into some maple limbs, bites deep. I wasn't really swinging too hard either because it was just laying about waist height in a pile of logs.
4th successive chop...
Turned over and cut cleanly through - nothing to it!
Here's a decent sized limb node to test the swamping bit (wider grind)
Normally I'd make a perpendicular chop to the limb, but I was curious at how far it would bite.
Three swipes, seems to do OK.
Now onto some splitting. Straight grained ash log? One strike, 80% split with a loud pop.
Turned on its side to finish the job. Done.
Multifaceted , do you grind the bevels with a belt sander ?
It depends. If I'm doing a substantial re-profiling and there is a lot of stock removal, then I'll use a belt sander at low speed with low grit paper. It is very, very easy to heat up the metal enough to draw the temper if you're not careful. If you're not experienced with metal grinding, then I would not suggest it. Now, as in this case where I did grind with a sander, I would go slowly keeping my fingers close to the edge feeling the heat build up. When it gets too hot for my fingers I'll stop, let air cool for a minute, or dunk in some quench water, then continue grinding. I'll get it close with the sander, then finish up with a bastard file, then hone with stones.
If the amount of material that needs to be grinded is fairly low, then I'll just hand file it with a double cut bastard mill file, then hone with stones.
Here's a video on grinding with power tools from a talented and upcoming (and young) blacksmith known for his axes:
I am familiar with keeping fingers close and water at the grinding stone I used to grind my own tool bits for the lathe.
I need to get a good belt sander so many times I find my self wanting one but they are not cheap.
a friend makes knives and has some very nice 2x72 variable speed grinders , I just need to-get around to having the cash and building one .
Very well, then - seems as if you're experienced. I would love a good 2x72 belt grinder for my aspiring blacksmithing operation, but alas... They are NOT cheap! For what it's worth, my belt sander is a stationary POS from Harbor Freight. If you oress too hard on it you'll stop the belt, that's really the only thing I use it for because it simply can't be overly aggressive unless you just keep holding the piece to the grit.
That being said, it's not common for me to need to grind and axe with a sander, it's only in case where I need to do some major repair and remove a lot of stock. Most axes, even if never grinded before have at least a decent enough angle to work your primary and secondary bevels without having to file away to much steel.
**** me, that is a beautiful axe! stunning work!
If you are interested in the browning process, it's pretty easy. The product I used was Birchwood Casey Plumb Brown for Rifle Barrels. The steel has to be clean and degreased. All Birchwood Casey products. You heat it to 275 degrees or till it sizzles when you wipe it on. Rinse it and repeat till you get the color you like. The ax I used was something I found that was a solid chunk of rust. If I picked a nicer ax it would have looked a lot better. Here's a couple pices of the ax as I found it and as I ground the rust off. I took about 8 ounces of steel off the ax.
Here's my Plumb Cruiser Multifaceted reground and hung for me. One pretty little ax.
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