Axe restoration thread

[U&A]

Nothing but mud over here... lol

Somehow there is copious amounts of mud underneath the snow here [emoji23]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[U&A]

Reaching out to my buds to see if you can help identify this a little more specifically than just saying it’s a Zenith Marshall Wells.

Based on this image showing the different types they had I am guessing my ex would be the one in the top right corner or the bottom left. But I’m not 100% sure


Can anyone give me further insight?

The shape of the outside contour of this looks like the “Sager” but the edges look different

I was told this was probably made by Kelly...

Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[dancan]

https://www.davistownmuseum.org/bioMarshallwells.html

 

[rarefish383]

https://www.bnctools.com/pages/axe-patterns

 

[DSW]

Tell me what you think. I’m here to learn and I have thick skin[emoji16][emoji1303][emoji41]

Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

Looks fine to me but the dog doesn't seem too impressed.

 

[rarefish383]

Reaching out to my buds to see if you can help identify this a little more specifically than just saying it’s a Zenith Marshall Wells.

Based on this image showing the different types they had I am guessing my ex would be the one in the top right corner or the bottom left. But I’m not 100% sure


Can anyone give me further insight?

The shape of the outside contour of this looks like the “Sager” but the edges look different

I was told this was probably made by Kelly...

Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

Did you try “yesteryeartools”, they have a pretty good write up on Kelly over the years. I didn’t notice any logo that looked like yours?

 

[U&A]

Got the Marshall wells and True Temper cleaned up with red scotch bright today.

Marshall Wells is in decent shape besides the minor pitting. The TT has met a grinder once or twice. Somebody did a number in it but after cleaning it up it really is not too bad. Will make a great tool but it’s not going to win any beauty contest.

Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Multifaceted]

You gonna be making these axes real and proper choppers, or just relegating them to splitting logs?

 

[U&A]

You gonna be making these axes real and proper choppers, or just relegating them to splitting logs?

Not splitters. I have a Fiskars for that and its hard to beat.

Choppers they will be! Definitely want to keep at least one of them possibly will sell the other. .... if someone actually wants it.

Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Multifaceted]

Not splitters. I have a Fiskars for that and its hard to beat.

Choppers they will be! Definitely want to keep at least one of them possibly will sell the other. .... if someone actually wants it.

Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

Good to hear! f you ever need some guidance or pointers on getting a right and proper proper grind geometry that will sever fibers and clear chips, feel free to message me. I've been known to do some chopping here and there.

 

[lead farmer]

Good to hear! f you ever need some guidance or pointers on getting a right and proper proper grind geometry that will sever fibers and clear chips, feel free to message me. I've been known to do some chopping here and there.

Dont forget the makin beer part....[emoji16]

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[MechanicMatt]

Well boys, in the bed of my truck is my Grandpa’s Ax, I had intentions of taking a picture tonight but my 15yo needed help with her homework. Tomorrow I’ll be sure to get a picture

 

[U&A]

Well boys, in the bed of my truck is my Grandpa’s Ax, I had intentions of taking a picture tonight but my 15yo needed help with her homework. Tomorrow I’ll be sure to get a picture

Waiting patiently for a pic[emoji4]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[U&A]

Good to hear! f you ever need some guidance or pointers on getting a right and proper proper grind geometry that will sever fibers and clear chips, feel free to message me. I've been known to do some chopping here and there.

Pm inbound


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Multifaceted]

Pm inbound


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

Responded not long ago

 

[svk]

Got the Marshall wells and True Temper cleaned up with red scotch bright today.

Marshall Wells is in decent shape besides the minor pitting. The TT has met a grinder once or twice. Somebody did a number in it but after cleaning it up it really is not too bad. Will make a great tool but it’s not going to win any beauty contest.

Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

Those are nice.

Does anyone know: Is there any difference in performance in the bowtie shape versus the rounded edge shape?

 

[MechanicMatt]

So it says Stanley on it, makes sense as he owned a hardware store. I think 90% of his tools were Stanley. Thinking that if I look hard enough I’ll find out the hatchet and boys axe are Stanley as well.

 

[U&A]

Those are nice.

Does anyone know: Is there any difference in performance in the bowtie shape versus the rounded edge shape?

I was wondering the same thing, but thinking the more rounded edges would be much more user-friendly in light of errors with the angle you hit things. But the more “bow tie” shape probably is more effective at chopping when it hits squarely


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Multifaceted]

Those are nice.

Does anyone know: Is there any difference in performance in the bowtie shape versus the rounded edge shape?

Rounded edge is likely exaggerated due to years of improper grinding. The toe of the bit is the part often subject to the most wear and damage this often gets more of the file. Without trueing up the bit before major damage repair, you get the rounded bit. Also, as is often the case with American axes that have cheeks, the heel and toe are much thinner than the center of the bit with the cheeks flare out, there's also much more steel there which translates into more material that needs to be removed in order to do a proper cutting grind. Many just follow the existing contour and file the edge to a point, then call it day, and that is not the best way. It's not even a good way, middling perhaps.

Edit: changed 'Most' to 'Many'

 

[U&A]

Rounded edge is likely exaggerated due to years of improper grinding. The toe of the bit is the part often subject to the most wear and damage this often gets more of the file. Without trueing up the bit before major damage repair, you get the rounded bit. Also, as is often the case with American axes that have cheeks, the heel and toe are much thinner than the center of the bit with the cheeks flare out, there's also much more steel there which translates into more material that needs to be removed in order to do a proper cutting grind. Most people just follow the existing contour and file the edge to a point, then call it day, and that is not the best way. It's not even a good way, middling perhaps.

Thanks for the info![emoji1303][emoji41]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]