Axe restoration thread

[Multifaceted]

I guess I jumped the gun a bit there. To be more clear, rounded bit profiles certainly did and do exist, but often do get exaggerated by not grinding down the cheeks. I prefer more of a slight curve, I find them less sticky than heavily rounded ones (I don't recall seeing any like that recently in this thread) - however, so long as the bit has an even degree of angle, i.e., the center of curve isn't wide or greater in angle than the hell or toe, then it shouldn't really impact performance, though, depending on what or how you're chopping, your milage may vary...

 

[MechanicMatt]

Grains not the best, but I won’t be using it much. Really more of a wall hanger because of the sentimental value. Any ideas on cleaning it up?

 

[MechanicMatt]

http://www.yesteryearstools.com/Yesteryears Tools/Stanley Axes.html

Some interesting reading

 

[U&A]

So i got the head sitting down on the shoulder of the handle were i want it. Squared up by eye.

Iv got a bit of room in the corners of the eye. The wedge will obviously make the handle fill all the gaps besides this one. I can see if the wedge is wide enough it could fill this spot. But if not..... do i need to use and epoxy to fill this corner up? One corner is open the other is closed up. If i split the difference to make them even the head is clearly not perpendicular to the handle. It has to be like pictured

Somehow it does not look very square in the picture but in person it really is.

Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[U&A]

Grains not the best, but I won’t be using it much. Really more of a wall hanger because of the sentimental value. Any ideas on cleaning it up?

I would consider doing minimal clean up if it is a wall hanger. Keep the history on it.

Rust prevention and boiled linseed oil.

Done


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[svk]

Well if you put a little epoxy in there it will definitely seal it up but if you did need to remove it in the future, it would be that much more difficult. Maybe whittle a little piece of wedge to put in there?

 

[U&A]

Well if you put a little epoxy in there it will definitely seal it up but if you did need to remove it in the future, it would be that much more difficult. Maybe whittle a little piece of wedge to put in there?

I was thinking this too just now!

Thank you!

Ill find a nice hard pc of black locusts to stick in there[emoji1303]



Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[U&A]

Wedge filled it in perfectly. Im happy with the way this came out.

Now to sharpen[emoji847]

Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[U&A]

2 questions for you experienced guys.

1) the round metal wedges.... just looking at them it seems these would create much more wedge effect than the standard wedges.

Is there a time and a place for these or can they be used almost exclusively? What are you thoughts on them over the standard metal wedges.

https://www.amazon.com/Beaver-Tooth-Safety-Wedges-Blacksmith/dp/B01IPY6XAI


2) iv been watching “Buckin’ Billy Ray Smith” here and there. Seems like a good person. I really enjoy his videos and he is always trying to help you learn. Great attitude as well.

Anyway. Instead of linseed oil he uses what he calls “watca” i am assuming he is saying “Watco” that is a brand name for danish oil. From research it seem it would be a good candidate for axe handles. Any experience and or thoughts on this VS linseed oil..? From what I can find it possibly just has a little bit more penetrating oil with it to pull the oils into the wood faster. But it does say that the oils “harden” inside the wood. Not on the outside.


https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/watco/danish-oil

Thank you for you insight guys. Much appreciated.

 

[svk]

I think the round metal wedge pounded in after the regular wedging creates an almost infallible bond.

I love the “wodca” lol. I think it hardens a bit better than linseed oil with time. Or at least that’s what Billy says. I haven’t personally used it.

 

[U&A]

I think the round metal wedge pounded in after the regular wedging creates an almost infallible bond.

I love the “wodca” lol. I think it hardens a bit better than linseed oil with time. Or at least that’s what Billy says. I haven’t personally used it.

So you use the round wedges often?

I bet that creates a LOT LOT LOT of force.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[svk]

So you use the round wedges often?

I bet that creates a LOT LOT LOT of force.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

I never have but if I had them I absolutely would

 

[U&A]

Based on the pictures id say it us a “ Connecticut” or “ Delaware/wide bit Dayton” style.

No idea the maker as somebody ground the living heck out of the sides of it. Used to be red paint on it. Definitely has been used in its life.

Any ideas? China?

Its a 4lbs’er

Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[svk]

True Temper used a similar red. But you’ll never know based on the fact that someone ground the heck out of that. Rehang it and put her in the rotation!

 

[rarefish383]

Yep, I was going to say True Temper. On the wedges, I like to try and keep them period correct. All of my old axes have wood wedges, and they lasted a life time. I do like the steel stepped wedges. The round ones seemed to come along later. I don't KNOW this. But it seemed the round ones may have come along when all handles were machine fitted, and it got more spread on them for a tighter fit? Just a WAG. I'm also particular to a tight fit of the handle to the top of the head. I first started noticing the proud fit on European axes. Lots of guys use the proud fit now a days. But all of the old pictures of American axes have a flush fit. I think in "An ax to Grind", he fits his heads flush. Just how I prefer them.

 

[CR888]

It seems whether hammering a nail into wood, cutting up some kindling, using a log splitter on splitting with an ax, whenever you get metal and drive it into wood it wants to do one thing and that is split the fibers apart. So for me I try to avoid metal wedges when hanging or hafting an ax. Metal is much harder than wood, it don't 'give' or conform. That's just me, I know many like driving metal wedges into ax hafts.

 

[U&A]

True Temper used a similar red. But you’ll never know based on the fact that someone ground the heck out of that. Rehang it and put her in the rotation!

Cool. Thanks[emoji1303]

Might as well say china then[emoji1787]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[U&A]

Just hanging out with Mr. Marshall Wells today [emoji16]

This one was more difficult. someone decided that the sides of this double bit was a sledge hammer.

Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[DSW]

I don't use any metal wedges.

The fit is what's important.

To me a true Connecticut pattern will be nearly as wide as it is long. Similar to a Jersey. Both beautiful patterns.

 

[Multifaceted]

Dayton pattern, definitely not a Connie.

I prefer the circular wedges if using one, even perfectly hung axe with wooden wedges can come loose, it's happened to me.

I like boiled linseed oil but cut with a little turpentine. BLO can spontaneously combust while drying on a rag, just keep that in mind.