axe sharpening

[sILlogger]

i've got a couple Tuatahi competition axes that i need to have sharpened. does anybody know who sharpens these axes?

 

[motoroilmccall]

Its not something you can do? I've never run a competition axe, but I can sharpen any of my axes to about the same sharpness as a typical pocket knife. Just throw it up on the bench grinder, quench it with coolant (or water, its not like its HSS or Carbide), then take a few stones to it and hone it down. Axes are usually low carbon tool steel, so they sharpen quickly. If you don't keep the blade cool you'll either anneal the steel, or if you get it hot then quench it, you can develop cracks, which can sometimes result in the tip cracking off in a few places.

Its not hard to do, you just have to do it right. You know what they say, "Practice makes better!"

 

[redprospector]

Here's how I sharpen mine.
1- remove the handle.
2- wrap the head well in newspaper, & ductape.
3- place head in a box addressed to PAChopper.
4- Mail
5- Wait for it's return, and replace handle.

We're dealing with an axe head that cost over $400.00 new. I may touch the edge on mine up once in a while, but any thing over a light rub with a fine stone goes to Mike.

Andy

 

[romeo]

Here's how I sharpen mine.
1- remove the handle.
2- wrap the head well in newspaper, & ductape.
3- place head in a box addressed to PAChopper.
4- Mail
5- Wait for it's return, and replace handle.

We're dealing with an axe head that cost over $400.00 new. I may touch the edge on mine up once in a while, but any thing over a light rub with a fine stone goes to Mike.

Andy

+1

 

[husky394]

A racing axe needs to be literally razor sharp, it should shave the hair off of your arm. Also, they are not made from the same steel as a woods axe, the metal is harder than.......

There are differnt ways to sharpen them depending on what you are cutting and you skill level.

First of all I completely agree that sending it to Pa chopper is the way to go. He understands all the nuances of the work, and can make an ax cut properly.

If you do want to try it yourself, or if you have a contest coming up soon, here is the way I do mine. It ain't the best way, I'm sure, but it works. My advice would be to practice on a hardware store axe.

1) File the edge with a flat file unitl it's as sharp as you can get it.

2) Take a Diamond stone and cut the edges on it. Do this by laying the stone on the edge at the desired angle and moving it back and forth from the toe of the axe to the heel. I then move the stone in circles as one would normally do to sharpen an axe. You should be scraping metal dust off the stone onto the other side of the head while it is at the desired angle, that's how I know I'm cuttingthe edge. If the angle is too steep, cut the edge again. Finish by moving the stone along the edge from heal to toe and back again. Repeat this until it is as sharp as you can get it.

3) Repeat with you next finest stone. I use, in this order: Diamond, 1200 grit Japanses water stone, Soft Arkansas (oiled), Hard Arkansas(oiled), swaty razor hone and fine ceramic. These are not all the "right" stones, but they do somewhat work for me. Two of the stones that I don't have are a "punjab" (SP?) and a particlular model from Norton. (BTW, the Nortons bring around 250 USD, maybe more) I've gotten work axes shaving sharp using just a file, round carborundum, and soft arkansas.


Once you get a little way into the process, the axe gets to the point where it can will cut you very easily. Be aware of where your fingers are in relation to the edge. Keep the kids away and take it serously

Do not wipe by moving a rag from toe to heel, you will get cut and bleed all over the shop. I know this. Wipe carefully, moving from the flat of the axe to the edge, being careful of your fingers.

Besides shaving you arm, a safer way of testing sharpness is to hold a piece of paper with a slight bend in it so that it can be held horizontally, then slice it with the axe. Once you can get it to do this with a work axe, do you practice axe, then decide if you want to try the Tui's.

If anything is unclear, let me know, maybe I can u-tube something.

Then after the season send it to pa chppper to have it done right for next year. My way is not the best way.

Some guys do what's called a filed edge, the just use a file and a particlar model of Norton stone, Cuts great. I've watched it done, but I can't do it.

Disclaimers:

1. I take no responsibiliy for any blood shed during this process. I've shed enough of mine learning it.

2. This is how I shapen my axes. It is not the only way or the best way, but it does somewhat work. My axes do cut, if I could just figure out how to run them.

 

[redprospector]

A racing axe needs to be literally razor sharp, it should shave the hair off of your arm. Also, they are not made from the same steel as a woods axe, the metal is harder than.......

There are differnt ways to sharpen them depending on what you are cutting and you skill level.

First of all I completely agree that sending it to Pa chopper is the way to go. He understands all the nuances of the work, and can make an ax cut properly.

If you do want to try it yourself, or if you have a contest coming up soon, here is the way I do mine. It ain't the best way, I'm sure, but it works. My advice would be to practice on a hardware store axe.

1) File the edge with a flat file unitl it's as sharp as you can get it.

2) Take a Diamond stone and cut the edges on it. Do this by laying the stone on the edge at the desired angle and moving it back and forth from the toe of the axe to the heel. I then move the stone in circles as one would normally do to sharpen an axe. You should be scraping metal dust off the stone onto the other side of the head while it is at the desired angle, that's how I know I'm cuttingthe edge. If the angle is too steep, cut the edge again. Finish by moving the stone along the edge from heal to toe and back again. Repeat this until it is as sharp as you can get it.

3) Repeat with you next finest stone. I use, in this order: Diamond, 1200 grit Japanses water stone, Soft Arkansas (oiled), Hard Arkansas(oiled), swaty razor hone and fine ceramic. These are not all the "right" stones, but they do somewhat work for me. Two of the stones that I don't have are a "punjab" (SP?) and a particlular model from Norton. (BTW, the Nortons bring around 250 USD, maybe more) I've gotten work axes shaving sharp using just a file, round carborundum, and soft arkansas.


Once you get a little way into the process, the axe gets to the point where it can will cut you very easily. Be aware of where your fingers are in relation to the edge. Keep the kids away and take it serously

Do not wipe by moving a rag from toe to heel, you will get cut and bleed all over the shop. I know this. Wipe carefully, moving from the flat of the axe to the edge, being careful of your fingers.

Besides shaving you arm, a safer way of testing sharpness is to hold a piece of paper with a slight bend in it so that it can be held horizontally, then slice it with the axe. Once you can get it to do this with a work axe, do you practice axe, then decide if you want to try the Tui's.

If anything is unclear, let me know, maybe I can u-tube something.

Then after the season send it to pa chppper to have it done right for next year. My way is not the best way.

Some guys do what's called a filed edge, the just use a file and a particlar model of Norton stone, Cuts great. I've watched it done, but I can't do it.

Disclaimers:

1. I take no responsibiliy for any blood shed during this process. I've shed enough of mine learning it.

2. This is how I shapen my axes. It is not the only way or the best way, but it does somewhat work. My axes do cut, if I could just figure out how to run them.

+1

Andy

 

[motoroilmccall]

Sounds like you guys are making these things as sharp as the paper knives I used to sharpen at work. You could literally let the thing drop (while controled in your hands of course) from about 10" above a phone book, and it would cut half way through it, no problem. And I'm talking a big city phonebook, like Buffalo, if you put some muscle in it (which we rarely did, these things would take a hand off clean) you could easily go right through the book, and get the blade lodged in the butcher block table.

The trick with the paper will show how sharp the knife is, but you have to know what you're looking for. A sharp edge will slice the paper with no traces of fiber showing from either side of the cut. If there is a nick in the edge you will feel the paper "hang up" on it, and you'll see paper fibers pulled out from the edge of the cut.

I never realized how sharp those axes were, I keep my woods axe sharp enough to cut rope, but it has a very steep edge for strength.

 

[Cheese]

When I have race axe issues, I send them to people who know what they are doing. Mike has a reputation for excellence.

I bought a jig for some repairs/tuning and a Makita 1" belt sander to learn when I have practice axe dings.

There is some real science/skill to handling these and making them not only work, but work well.

What is wrong with them? I stone my race axes but that is maintenance not so much sharpening.

 

[sILlogger]

thanks all for your advice. does anyone have any contact info for PAChopper? relative cost?

also, Cheese where did u get the jig?

 

[Cheese]

I got a jig from the Tuatahi factory when I was ordering some axes. I have never fixed a race axe with it, but it has worked with practice axes and I am doing decent work.

I have paid 30 bucks for a practice axe that rookies have put into a stand with a minor ding and I have paid 75 bucks for a good race axe with what looked like a half dollar out of it. Good work takes knowledge, tools and time. Specifics may vary depending on what is being done. This doesn't count shipping.

 

[Chopwood]

A brand new head, ground by a pro goes for about $425. The prices are steadily increasing because of steel prices. I don't mess with mine, I also send them to Mike (PAChopper). In the fall I will be giving him two boxes (12 axes) for touch ups.

 

[sILlogger]

can anybody get me the contact info for Mike "PaChopper"? it would be greatly appreciated

 

[Cheese]

Don't have an e-mail, he hangs around more on a different board. Perhaps someone else has a contact.

I meant to clarify, the prices I mentioned were for REPAIRS, not complete axes.

With the dollar headed down, gear from down under gets spendy quick!

 

[snowyman]

Ask on here: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=768

Someone will help,

 

[burl1984]

Both David Moses SR and JR will re-grind and sharpen axes. They are in Snoqualmie Wa. I had Jr. grind a brand new oxhead 1 year a go for the collegiate stihl series. Most any pro will grind your axes but they will charge several hundred like stated above.
I have recently started to grind my own axes. Basically a jig from tuitahi will do most of the work.
steps I do:
1 set angle ie 16,15,14,13 degrees anything below 12 usually results in an unstable edge.

2 determine the amount of hollowing, usually done free hand with a flap disc on a 4" angle grinder.

3 have an assortment of sandpaper ranging in increments from about 150 grit-1600 to 2000 grit. Use a small piece of sand paper wraped around the single cut bastard file used to set the angle of the edge and start sanding the edge of the axe in the same manner as you would be using the file and the jig. You have to count your strokes with each grit count of sand paper working both left and right sides of the axe face. working up to 2000 grit will produce basically a mirror finish on the set angle of the axe face. It will also produce a burr directly on the edge.

4 a frictionite razor hone or some type of stone maybe diamond hone for knifes, but razor hones are best. Take the hone and sort of how you would sharpen a knife you need to work the burr off the edge of the axe with equall and exact angle on each side of the axe face.

5 a flap disc on a grinder can polish most of the rest of the axe to make it free in the wood, just dont let it touch and remove any material from the mirror finish angled edge that you just spent several hours making razor sharp.

I hope this helps.

 

[Ernie Warzyca]

i believe tuatahi makes a sharpening jig specialy for you axe.checkout there web site in new zealand