Bar and chain recommendation

[wattsranch4]

Some may know that recently bought a Husq 395xpg for milling mesquite and some post oak. Have done alot of reading on here and just wondering what 36" bar and chain to run for ripping as I have the MKIV Alaskan. What gauge and pitch do yall go with?

 

[Brian72]

My 661 came with 36" bar .50 gauge 3/8 chain. I wish I would've gotten .63 gauge for better oiling. I may eventually convert to .63 404 skip chain as I hear it holds a better edge. I don't know how the husky is but my stihl is very stingy oiling the 36" bar. I'll probably end up getting an auxiliary oiler.

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

 

[BobL]

When milling, bars are more often and for longer buried in wood so I would recommend using an oiler even on a small CSM.
On something like a 661 you'd need to match the oil output of the Aux oiler to at least match that of the saw.
BTW I found skip chain does go blunt faster than full comp - it makes sense because there are less cutters so they have to do more work.

 

[Brian72]

When milling, bars are more often and for longer buried in wood so I would recommend using an oiler even on a small CSM.
On something like a 661 you'd need to match the oil output of the Aux oiler to at least match that of the saw.
BTW I found skip chain does go blunt faster than full comp - it makes sense because there are less cutters so they have to do more work.

Thanks for the info Bob. I was only considering the 404 skip because I wasn't sure if the full comp would be too much for the saw with longer bars. I'll definitely be looking into an auxiliary oiler. The 661 is my first stihl and even just cutting firewood the oiler seems a little light compared to my other brand saws.

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

 

[gemniii]

Thanks for the info Bob. I was only considering the 404 skip because I wasn't sure if the full comp would be too much for the saw with longer bars. I'll definitely be looking into an auxiliary oiler. The 661 is my first stihl and even just cutting firewood the oiler seems a little light compared to my other brand saws.

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

If you are running a US Stihl you need to realize that the oiler is a "turned down" version (to prevent pollution I guess). The BEST solution is to visit a dealer in Australia and get a replacement oiler down there. They are REAL simple to swap in. I upgraded both of my 660's and now they sling oil with a 32" bar.

But I did it the cheap way and bought them locally.
Did not have problems milling about 28" maple w/ a 42" bar in the cold of winter several years ago without an aux oiler. That being written I plan on buying one for a 48" bar I'm getting.

 

[rarefish383]

Brian, you do have the pump turned up all the way? My 660 oils "ok", in Oak and Hickory, 24" to 30". Bar never overheats or colors. I run the chain a tad loose and keep a quart bottle of oil on my guide when milling larger stuff. Some where out in my shed I have a drip oiler that came off an old 60 HP stump grinder with chain drive. It's even adjustable from a little drip now and then to a steady trickle. I'm just too lazy to go find and mount it, Joe.

 

[Brian72]

Brian, you do have the pump turned up all the way? My 660 oils "ok", in Oak and Hickory, 24" to 30". Bar never overheats or colors. I run the chain a tad loose and keep a quart bottle of oil on my guide when milling larger stuff. Some where out in my shed I have a drip oiler that came off an old 60 HP stump grinder with chain drive. It's even adjustable from a little drip now and then to a steady trickle. I'm just too lazy to go find and mount it, Joe.

Yes I do. I pushed the pin in and cranked it up. I'm definitely getting an auxiliary oiler. Just too many projects and never enough time. I'm hoping to get more milling done now that it's cooling off. I just didn't mess with it much over the summer.

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

 

[mopar1rules]

What "pin" gets pushed in to increase the oil output on the 660? I will be starting some milling work with my 660 and want the pump to be kicking out more oil too. Thanks in advance.

 

[rarefish383]

Look on the bottom of the saw, about in the middle of the plastic housing, you will see a picture of a chain link with a drop of oil over it. There is an arrow that is fat on one side and skinny on the other. You may need to spray it out with brake clean or blow it out with air to see the set screw. I forget if it's a small torx driver or flat screw slot. Anyway, turn the screw in the direction of the fat arrow to increase. I never noticed having to push in on the screw to turn it. Maybe just the pressure of the driver pushed it in enough. I just turned it like any other screw and it worked fine, Joe.

What kind of Mopars are you into? I have a 68 Cuda Formula S convertible, 383, 4 speed, all numbers matching.

 

[mopar1rules]

I know of the adjustment screw for the oil pump on the bottom of the saw.....I was talking about a "pin" that folks talk of removing or something from the US oil pumps, that allow it to pump oil like crazy, like the Australian oil pumps.

I don't have a mopar actually, but my brother has a '71 challanger conv, with a 340 and pistol grip 4 speed. I don't have the money for a cool old muscle car. Boy would I love a '69 or '70 road runner or super bee with a 440 mag and 4 speed.

 

[rarefish383]

You got me on the pin, I just crank up the screw and my 660 oils fine in Oak and Hickory up to about 30".

I guess one of the good parts about getting old now, is I got to live through the hay day of muscle cars when I was in high school. Not the first wave, but in the early 70's, when the gas embargo had every one selling their muscle cars. One of my buddies had my dream car. A factory Super Stock 64 Coronet with a 426 Max Wedge, 2X4 cross ram, and a 4 speed. A few years ago I sold off most of my cars, the last two to go were a 66 Fury III convertible and a 67 Dodge R/T 440 magnum. I had three different 69 Swingers, one 440 and two 340's. Now all I have left is my Cuda. I turn 62 next year and I plan on giving the body shop my SS check until the car is done, Joe.