Bar Mount Questions?

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BugaBoots

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I'm looking at buying a bigger bar for my 2083 jonny, and need a little help with the whole bar mount pattern. I know my saw takes a 9.0mm mount pattern. What i was wondering is if i can run a 9.5 with out some kind of adaptor or anything? I am trying to find a bigger bar on e-bay and im running across a lot of 9.5 mount bars. I would like to buy one cause there going for good prices but not sure if i would need to do anything to my saw or if it would be a bad move on my part.

I have seen that you can get an adapter to go to the 12mm stihl mount but thoes bars seem to be running a little higher price tag.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
SAw bar

What size bar are you wanting to run? There is a adapter for running stihl bars on husky/jred. Baileys has them.
 
Your 2083 uses the large mount Husqvarna bar which has a 9.5mm bar slot, no adaptor is needed. The Oregon number for those bars is D009 and it is also used on Dolmar\Makita chainsaws.

The DOO9 is 9.0 mm. The D196 is 9.5mm. 2083 uses a DOO9.
I'm suprised the OP is finding more 196 bars than 009 though.

As far as the original question I don't know how the .5mm would affect the saw. I usually open up 9mm bars to 9.5mm for the older Jreds.
 
sometimes you are just better off going to a dealer. the time and effort you put into a few dollars saved could have been spent doing something better. Either that or you could just trade it in on an MS460 with the length of bar you want!
 
The DOO9 is 9.0 mm. The D196 is 9.5mm. 2083 uses a DOO9.
I'm suprised the OP is finding more 196 bars than 009 though.

As far as the original question I don't know how the .5mm would affect the saw. I usually open up 9mm bars to 9.5mm for the older Jreds.

Sorry about that, I got my information mixed up. I could not remember what the slot size was on a D009 so I used Mike Acres website, which listed it as 9.5mm. A much less lazy person would have just gone downstairs and measured the bar slot himself.........

So the D009 is the bar you need for your 2083 and that mount was used on almost all of the 60cc+ Husqvarna chainsaws and the Domlar\Makita 6400\6401-7900\7901. Your local Lowes store sells these bars branded as Husqvarna and bar\chain sets as Oregon.
 
sometimes you are just better off going to a dealer. the time and effort you put into a few dollars saved could have been spent doing something better. Either that or you could just trade it in on an MS460 with the length of bar you want!
I suppose you could do that, (trade in on a stihl).
But why go backwards???
 
sometimes you are just better off going to a dealer. the time and effort you put into a few dollars saved could have been spent doing something better. Either that or you could just trade it in on an MS460 with the length of bar you want!

I hope you just dont know what a Jred 2083 ls because that was some wired advice you just doled out.

Large mount husky bars are very easy to find
 
I am running a 20" bar right now and im looking at going to a 30-36" bar. Im trying to stay under 50$ for it since it will not see a lot of use. I saw the adaptor for the stihl bars but they seem to be a higher price. Just not sure if i want to buy one with the 9.5 slot and just try it. I dont think that it would make that much differance but i dont want to buy one to find out it wont work or jack up my saw.
 
The DOO9 is 9.0 mm. The D196 is 9.5mm. 2083 uses a DOO9.
I'm suprised the OP is finding more 196 bars than 009 though.

As far as the original question I don't know how the .5mm would affect the saw. I usually open up 9mm bars to 9.5mm for the older Jreds.

A small correction; The specified tail pattern for the older large Jonsereds actually was the D024, but the D196 will usually fit.

Regarding the 2083, it was made at the Husky factory, and takes the D009 (large Husky), as you said.
 
I am running a 20" bar right now and im looking at going to a 30-36" bar. Im trying to stay under 50$ for it since it will not see a lot of use. I saw the adaptor for the stihl bars but they seem to be a higher price. Just not sure if i want to buy one with the 9.5 slot and just try it. I dont think that it would make that much differance but i dont want to buy one to find out it wont work or jack up my saw.

Just keep your eyes open, you will find a deal on a D009 bar. Good luck staying under $50 with any bar that size though.
 
Well after doing a little more digging and searching online i think i might just take the gamble and go with the 9.5mm slot bar. I can find them dirt cheep for some reason. I dont figure that .5mm will really make that much if any differance. Now the only problem i have is to decide what i want to run for chain on it. :confused:
 
the .5 won't hurt at all, just make sure your bar is UP before you clamp it down. .

The bar will point more up than normal if it is mounted (and the chain tightened) right, and it will make a mess of the chain tension if the bar nuts aren't tight enough, and you cut with the upper side of the bar.

I would not want to do it, except in an emergency!
 
Just to get it streight; D024 is 10 mm (ol' Jonsered mount), D096/196 is 9.5 mm (ol' Homelite mount), D009 is 9 mm (large Husky mount).
 
The bar will point more up than normal if it is mounted (and the chain tightened) right, and it will make a mess of the chain tension if the bar nuts aren't tight enough, and you cut with the upper side of the bar.

I would not want to do it, except in an emergency!

I agree, .5mm is more then it sounds like when mounted and is hard to keep tight that way.

No need for it either.
 
The bar will point more up than normal if it is mounted (and the chain tightened) right, and it will make a mess of the chain tension if the bar nuts aren't tight enough, and you cut with the upper side of the bar.

I would not want to do it, except in an emergency!

I always back the tension screw off after I tighten the bar up. I see what you are talking about, but I don't think it would be a big problem with a proper hand. .
 
Already having something and jimmy rigging it to make it work is one thing. Since the OP doesn't have the incorrect bar already, to me it doesn't make sense to buy something that isn't a proper fit? That isn't a toy saw and it deserves the proper accessories that will function as intended without additional effort. Go buy the correct bar in the length you want and be happy for a long time. (or buy a saw that fits the discount bars) The money you'll save is relatively small in the scheme of things and likely to be regretted. At least that's my two sense worth and I'm the king of jimmy rigging.
 
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