best chain for cutting fire wood ?

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in the past year, i've cut 150 cords or so, all of it 3 feet off the ground. pick the logs off the ground with skid steer, put them on the table, and cut them up.

dang bark holds sand and rocks. danged logs get those splits in them that hold sand and rocks.

sure would be neat to have logs that never have sand, dirt, or rocks in them from falling on the ground.

Dr, if you are talking face cord then you cut 2 to 3 times as much as I do a year, if you a talking bush then thats a crap load more. I don't sell wood and only use about (6 to 8) face cord a year myself, I cut mostly for the parents. I am not done yet this year but so far - (37 to 38) face cord for inlaws and (8) for my folks, friends(6), neighbours(2).:greenchainsaw:

I drop trees and cut them as they lay, meaning I won't drag them out or move them around with equipment as that is when I have found the mud, dirt, sand, stones... cover or get ground into the wood. If you have the grapple/claw machines and can pick them straight up that I think would be different.

However only 5 times in 26 years of working saws have I been cutting and hit something that took the edge off right away, 3 stones (one lodged up inside bark/groove underside log from fall & two careless), one other time in the middle of a Suger Maple, couldn't figure it out until later - a metal sap spile left and grown into tree from 30ish years gone by - took all the cutters on one side to nothing - took 4 filings to get the chain back to proper, what a pizzer. The last was frozen composted rot like dirt in the centre of a log, boy that was nasty too.

Point is I try everything possible to avoid any stuff that the chain won't like, I like to cut all day (only cut on weekends) using one or two of my saws, and then at days end or before next going out, file them with 3 to 6 rubs per tooth to get back to super sharp, scrape drags as and if needed, since I hand file I hate working and working on teeth, fussing away trying to get all teeth even, chewin away at some good teeth more cause some were wacked more than others...Like you said start the day with sharp chains...a dull one is the worst and fixin it is just as frustrating. A sharp chain is a fine thing!:chainsaw: My wife thinks I am nuts:dizzy: but she still likes me, I think.:confused:

Boy I rattled on but that's just my 3cents.:)
 
i don't know bush cept'in a purty gurls lower parts.

a cord is 4x4x8. them's feet.

when i say 150 cord, i'm talking about 8 full semis of logs, each 8 feet wide, 8 feet tall, and 42 feet long.

mebbe it is less, mebbe it is more. i chops it up, spits it, and rumor has it i sells some.
 
4'x4'x8' that's what we call bush, at 150 of those a year you must cut pretty much full time or have a little help and buy the chains by the reel, real long. That much wood might justify one of those wood processors and therefore less chainsaw work.

As far as the other goes there is a funny scene about "bush" in the movie The Heartbreak Kid with Ben and Jerry Stiller, involves a girl, Ben and I think it was a jelly fish.
 
i built a processor.

10 full cords a day for 2 guys if you keep after it for a solid 8 hours, and things go reasonably well.
 
Stihl RSC on the 290, 036

The (newer) style PMMC chain I use on the 170 is unreal...2 days of limbing....and some bucking (to show off!)..."Stihl" cuts good!
 
Only read the first page of this but I didnt see any mention of carbide tip chains. I know they make them ( probably not for all manufacturers ) and was curious they weren't mentioned.

:jawdrop:
 
I cut real wood (atleast 10 cord a year) and usually the cheapest chains I can get my hands on are the best. Most important aspect in my humble opinion is keeping them sharp.
Without a stopwatch I dont' think I can tell the difference btw Woodsman pro (carlton from bailey's), Oregon, or Stihl. No matter what chain it is I hit them w/ a few strokes of the file every time I fill the tank.
I've watched some darn nice saws look VERY BAD just b/c the owner didn't want or know how to keep a chain sharp.
 
Only read the first page of this but I didnt see any mention of carbide tip chains. I know they make them ( probably not for all manufacturers ) and was curious they weren't mentioned.

:jawdrop:
Carbide chains are too expensive and you can't sharpen them with a file. They are useless for firewood cutting. Any chain will cut if you keep it sharp. Some chains just stay sharper longer like the stihl chain.
 
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