Best goop to repair plastic threads

[user 122190]

I have some (1) High Temp gasket goop, some (2) JB Weld and lastly some of that over advertised (3) Flex Glue. Will one or other work, or something else to repair stripped threads in the Carburetor Flange of a Husky 350. I found that this flange was stripped when I was reassembling the 350 rebuild. The saw definitely has a leak, as it won't hold idle and bogs out in the cut. With a 3rd hand to hold the carb tight to the intake flange/boot it is a much better behaving saw.

I figure I will try this for a quick (permanent?) fix before ordering a part.

 

[cuinrearview]

That material is soft so it will be hard to get it to bond. What's the part cost, $15 at the dealer?

 

[cuinrearview]

I might have one Bill but I won't be back home to look until tomorrow evening. If I do it's yours for shipping.

 

[user 122190]

Thanks. Part is low cost, this is just something I want to try.

 

[cuinrearview]

No need to risk an air leak and burning up that high dollar piston and cylinder.

 

[jltrent]

I have use pipe thread tape before and it works pretty good if the thread are not to far gone.

 

[Blue Oaks]

You might try a helicoil.

 

[tmessenger]

Stick a lenght of string trimmer line in the hole then thread in the bolt.

 

[sunfish]

Replace the part and don't over tighten.

 

[holeycow]

replace the part,

but a piece of zip tie works,

or my personal favourite goop is shoe goo, but it is not solvent resistant according to literature. I have never tested it..?

 

[scottr]

replace the part,

but a piece of zip tie works,

or my personal favourite goop is shoe goo, but it is not solvent resistant according to literature. I have never tested it..?

Holeycow , the company that makes shoe goop also makes a gas and oil resistant goop called Seal-All .

 

[holeycow]

Good to know!

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

As mentioned above... order a new one. Some shops have them in stock and they're not very expensive.

 

[Wood Doctor]

The Husky 51 I am restoring ran into the same problem, but it was not as loose as yours sounds. The new part that Chainsaw Jim mentions is the way to go, but the 51's equivalent part is more expensive and even harder to find. For example, HL Supply does not show it.

I decided that I had no intention or removing this carb very often, so I decided to try some Elmer's Nano glue applied to the last 1/2" of the screws, removing and installing one at a time. I imagine Gorilla glue or JB Weld might also work the same way. I let it start to harden in air for a couple of minutes before setting the screw back in. This adhesive expands as it dries, so I noticed immediately as I tightened the screw that it was taking hold. Hard to believe, but it worked.

The owner before me had used what looked like a helicoil, but it fell apart when I removed the old carb and tried to install the new one. I think pipe thread teflon tape might have worked in my case but if yours is really loose, I doubt it would hold strong enough. Regardless of what you try, do not overtighten and restrip again. As long as the carb gasket is intact, it should not have to be really tight like a cylinder base. Good luck, Bill.

 

[67L36Driver]

You might try a helicoil.

I drill/tap Stihl tanks for 5mm Helicoil at the AV mounts when they are stripped. [emoji108]

 

[Deleted member 117362]

I have done this a few times with tank scews. Used small plastic wall inserts, mixed JB weld and rolled insert in it, tapped insert into stripped out holes and trimmed off excess plastic. Let it sit a day and redrill hole if needed. Never tried on a double sided flat part, but may work, if trimming both sides.

 

[user 122190]

I forgot about the gorilla glue. And this saw will also never be worked on again. I was out cutting with the owner this morning, and he thinks I have raised the dead. The dealer had told him it was hopeless, i.e. that the saw was completely dead. It is going to be a great saw again. I'll likely order the part and attempt the cheap fix. It is apart of my education -- and this saw is my lab specimen.

The Husky 51 I am restoring ran into the same problem, but it was not as loose as yours sounds. The new part that Chainsaw Jim mentions is the way to go, but the 51's equivalent part is more expensive and even harder to find. For example, HL Supply does not show it.

I decided that I had no intention or removing this carb very often, so I decided to try some Elmer's Nano glue applied to the last 1/2" of the screws, removing and installing one at a time. I imagine Gorilla glue or JB Weld might also work the same way. I let it start to harden in air for a couple of minutes before setting the screw back in. This adhesive expands as it dries, so I noticed immediately as I tightened the screw that it was taking hold. Hard to believe, but it worked.

The owner before me had used what looked like a helicoil, but it fell apart when I removed the old carb and tried to install the new one. I think pipe thread teflon tape might have worked in my case but if yours is really loose, I doubt it would hold strong enough. Regardless of what you try, do not overtighten and restrip again. As long as the carb gasket is intact, it should not have to be really tight like a cylinder base. Good luck, Bill.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I forgot about the gorilla glue. And this saw will also never be worked on again. I was out cutting with the owner this morning, and he thinks I have raised the dead. The dealer had told him it was hopeless, i.e. that the saw was completely dead. It is going to be a great saw again. I'll likely order the part and attempt the cheap fix. It is apart of my education -- and this saw is my lab specimen.

I may have to move to Northwest Montana. 'Nuff said. Two thumbs up!

 

[Stihl 041S]

Clean the hole well
Pour in a thing epoxy
Drill
Tap
Correct way

 

[TheTone]

Clean the hole well
Pour in a thing epoxy
Drill
Tap
Correct way

I second the motion. Would use JB Weld.