Best grinder

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

super rube

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jan 25, 2021
Messages
23
Reaction score
22
Location
south carolina
Have several chains that need grinding (dirt,rocks etc). Been hand filing for 40plus years but want a good grinder to add to my arsenal. The semington is too $$$$. I like the look of the economec super jolley and the 510 Oregon. I would use it fairly often as I cut a lot of wood for my wood boiler as well as my dads wood for his. I’m thinking no more than 500 bucks. Any advice ?
 
The super Jolly is the same as the Oregon 620. The Jolly star is the 520. Both great grinders. 620 will save you some time by clamping for you.

If you want the best grinder that isn't a square grinder it's probably the stihl USG, but I think they're more like $600+.
 
Have several chains that need grinding (dirt,rocks etc). Been hand filing for 40plus years but want a good grinder to add to my arsenal. The semington is too $$$$. I like the look of the economec super jolley and the 510 Oregon. I would use it fairly often as I cut a lot of wood for my wood boiler as well as my dads wood for his. I’m thinking no more than 500 bucks. Any advice ?

Here’s the biggest question you need to answer first what sort of chain are you grinding? You say a Simington grinder well that does square only. Then you say a Tecomec Super Jolly/ Oregon grinder well they only do round so which are you doing?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Full chisel chain , both full comp on my 562xp and skip on my 372xp (The legend I might add) usually RC chain from woodland pro and Oregon LGX. 7/32 file
 
Full chisel chain , both full comp on my 562xp and skip on my 372xp (The legend I might add) usually RC chain from woodland pro and Oregon LGX. 7/32 file

That’s round, sometimes here on the west coast chisel only refers to square. If it was me skip the full skip chain and pickup a Tecomec Super Jolly the setup is very simple to do.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That’s round, sometimes here on the west coast chisel only refers to square. If it was me skip the full skip chain and pickup a Tecomec Super Jolly the setup is very simple to do.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah I’m leaning toward the super jolly. So , a full skip chain can’t be sharpened on the super jolly , just full comp chain ?
 
Yeah I’m leaning toward the super jolly. So , a full skip chain can’t be sharpened on the super jolly , just full comp chain ?

No it can, any combo of cutters can be but you’ll be less likely to be filing anymore there’s less call for a full skip chain. With full skip your main gain is you can sometimes use a smaller power head with a longer bar but you will sacrifice speed and smoothness.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Welcome to A.S.!

The Jolly star is the 520.
They are very similar: the Oregon 520-120 has a wheel wear adjustment feature that the Jolly Star does not.

Bear in mind that the quality of the grinding wheels matter too - avoid the cheap 'clone' grinders.

I would choose the Oregon 520 if that fits in your budget. For a basic, economy choice I would go with this one (standard size, made in Italy, good wheels / no light, no 'down angle' option, no wheel wear feature):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecomec-Co...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
More tips on use, etc. here:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/
Philbert
 
This is my set up and current sharpening project (~60 chains).
I've had this grinder for 13 yrs and have never had any issues, haven't even replaced anything. I have been using the CBN wheels for years and love them as well.
I've used Oregon grinders (not a fan bc they don't clamp as well) and have also used Silveys for years (more expensive, cost benefit isn't there for me for personal use).
Not sure on cost for this grinder, got it as a parting gift but maybe 2-250? I've spent $350 on the wheels and have had them almost as long as the grinder. Got the stihl breaker and spinner for $100 5 yrs ago.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20210201_001450799.jpg
    PXL_20210201_001450799.jpg
    3.7 MB · Views: 45
  • PXL_20210201_001422482.jpg
    PXL_20210201_001422482.jpg
    579.1 KB · Views: 41
I've had this grinder for 13 yrs . . .

I've used Oregon grinders (not a fan bc they don't clamp as well) . . .
That is a Tecomec grinder. They make most of the Oregon grinders, and are often identical, aside from color, and a few features.

That one is identical to my Oregon 511A.

There have been some different chain clamping vises on both brands through the years.

Philbert
 
That is a Tecomec grinder. They make most of the Oregon grinders, and are often identical, aside from color, and a few features.

That one is identical to my Oregon 511A.

There have been some different chain clamping vises on both brands through the years.

Philbert
Correct, I don't know what it is with the newer ones. I had 2 Oregon grinders, not sure of model numbers, at work in the last 2-3 yrs and there were a few of those features I wasn't a fan of. Should've clarified myself a bit more.
 
The Oregon 511A was the 'classic' - identical to your Tecomec FL136, and sold under some other brand names. It is the one that most of the 'clone' grinders are modeled after.

The Oregon 511AX had the 'self-centering' vise that some high volume users had problems with. This was also used on some Tecomec branded models.

The current, Oregon 520 uses a modified version of the 511A vise that clamps from both sides.
 
I sure like mine.
Y’all just don’t know how nice it is to ask questions and chat bout chainsaws and such with other folks who know something about the subject. I started cutting timber with my gramps at the age of 14. He retired when I was 18 and wanted me to take over his logging business. I was stupid and went to work at the local sawmill as a lumber grader. Have been in metal fabrication since age 22 but still my favorite thing to do is operate a well cutting chainsaw. Having a wood boiler gives me much saw time. I also do some tree work for the free wood. Very few loggers left around upstate S.C. Anymore. The ones that are left are not that saw savvy with all the modern felling equipment they have now. It’s got so bad that around here the people who have even seen a chain saw think that the longer the bar the faster it cuts. Yes you heard me right. I just call them Yankee flat lander people. I’ve always said a man ain’t no kind of man if he ain’t got land and can run a chain saw. Y’all keep up the good conversation as I really enjoy it.
 
Here’s ol’ painless. 21 years old and still has the original plug ,air filter, I cut at least 4-5 cords per year with her plus that much more for my dad. Stihl ultra oil and ethanol free gas !!! I sometimes call her “Legend”. 372XP I’d rather fight than switch
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1036.MOV
    44.6 MB
I have the Oregon 511a. I had the chance to jump up to the hydro model, but declined. I've always been very happy with it, and have never seen the need for the hydro clamp personally. I'm sure Phill had a link, but about the most useful thing you can do to it is add reverse if your able. Makes life a lot easier imo. Just need to watch out for the sparks flying back at you lol
 
The super Jolly is the same as the Oregon 620. The Jolly star is the 520. Both great grinders. 620 will save you some time by clamping for you.

If you want the best grinder that isn't a square grinder it's probably the stihl USG, but I think they're more like $600+.
I like how the Stihl locks the chain in place and the tooth doesn't tip when the grinder wheel is applied like my Oregon 511AX. The Oregon doesn't seem to keep the chain from tipping side to side slightly which of course, changes the angles and pitch.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top