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Best torque wrench for chainsaw repair?

Den

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I'm thinking about buying a Tekton 1/4" drive torque wrench in "inch pounds".

I'm looking at a Tekton that is 10-150 inch pounds.
The other is Capri that is 20-150 inch pounds.

I thought I remember seeing some torque values on chainsaws that fall in that 10 to 20 inch pound range, which kind of eliminates the Capri 20-150 wrench.

What torque spec do cylinder bolts usually require on most modern chainsaws... like say the Echo CS-670 for example?


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Den

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Any chainsaw component that is "torque critical", such as cylinder bolts for instance, will probably be over 20 inch pounds for the specification. Right?
 
RED-85-Z51

RED-85-Z51

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I thought i was slick...spending good money on a torque wrench for small stuff to make sure it was perfect.

You know what sucks? Snapping off a cylinder bolt because the 20 year old bolt couldn't take spec torque.

I went back to my 1/4" porter cable impact and long impact t27 bit, its a system ive used for years and havent had a bolt come loose or wring off yet.

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wyk

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I've got the DeWalt version of that Makita. Good little drivers.

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Freakin love mine for clutches. But I did once, and still do because it never happened, have a 281xp where it couldn't undo the clutch side. Thinking it was the driver, I tried it by hand. That clutch will be on that saw until it completely fails. Then...I dunno, maybe just put it up on a mantle.
 

Den

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I've got this one, that I'm happy with. I use it almost exclusively for torquing the connecting rod bolts on the older saws and kart motors:

Jacob J,
Maybe you could clarify, what are the pointers on the head for?
It's a click type torque wrench. You just set it at whatever you desire, and tighten until it clicks and you feel that release a tiny bit. Like Snap-On and Matco torque wrenches operate. Why would the pointers be necessary?

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catbuster

catbuster

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I use a Proto 1/4” drive for small things. I think it’s part no. J6060. Something like 10-50 inch-lb. Really nice little wrench. I have a bigger 1/4” Proto and it’s a couple part numbers up, not sure about the range, but it starts close to the top of the smaller one’s range.

Personally, I doubt I’ve ever actually put a torque wrench on a saw, even when pulling and replacing a cylinder or the few times I’ve split a case and reassembled it. Usually getting a ratchet on a saw and pulling on it is plenty.
 
Justsaws

Justsaws

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If you are using a torque wrench on small fasteners in mag/alum alloys or plastics, you should be using new fasteners, especially if any type of thread compound was used or is going to be used. If you are reusing self tapping fasteners, put the torque wrench down unless you have a number for used fasteners in a already cut bore.

T handle Wilha set will most any single piece rod saw‘s cylinder, crankcase bolts, etc.

If you are worried about the clutch, tighten it down and start the saw with the chain break on.

It is not a spaceship, it is a chainsaw. Spend your money on more chainsaws. Connecting rods bolts and cylinder nuts are about the only time I would use one on a chainsaw. Multi purpose saw drives might be another, no chain brake and big spinny wheel of dismemberment and death.
 
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