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The oiler quit leaking. I took a look and of course the sealing ring was the most obvious reason. I re-greased the area and re-assembled it. Set it on some cardboard and checked a few days later and it was fairly dry, almost dry. That is normal. The plate around the bar studs needs to sit flat to get it on the bar good. Mine is high on one side and it's the plate, so I need to flatten it and my oiler will he perfect.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 
I must have got my days mixed up
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chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 
I bought a new pre-built 388 recently. Aside from the clutch springs breaking after 10 hours, and the carb butterfly valve spring being too weak, it leaks oil like a stuck pig since day one. Where do you source the $13 sealing ring?
 
I bought a new pre-built 388 recently. Aside from the clutch springs breaking after 10 hours, and the carb butterfly valve spring being too weak, it leaks oil like a stuck pig since day one. Where do you source the $13 sealing ring?
Lay it on its side. Remove chain/bar. Clean area without setting it up right.

Now in good light and watching the oil vent closely, turn it up. I bet oil floods out from under the vent. Meaning it's not set down properly.

I suggest if that's the case. Use a heat gun on the vent and area around it and whack it downward and not interfer with the hole. i did a video on it. Can't recall but I think it needs to be about 3mm lower. You might want to check that video to be sure.

To answer your question Stihl. Do this first.

Remember this is a Chinese saw not a old 038, closer to a ms380

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://youtube.com/the1chainsawguy
 

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