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BIGBUCK

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Central Ontario Canada
I was checking for loose nuts and bolts on my Husky 395XP. I over tightened the nut holding the flywheel on the crank. Broke it off. It was an awful feeling. My neighbor told me to weld a flat washer on the end of the crank to hold the flywheel on. Does that sound possible to any of you guys.
Thanks
 
I would say no,.. replace the crank. The last thing you want is that coming off at 12000 rpm. :censored: bummer

theres one on ebay for 65,..
 
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Very unlucky, I would have thought the thread in the nut would strip before the
threaded end of the crank would snap.
It might be possible to drill & tap a thread in the end of the crank then loctite a bolt in there.
 
I was checking for loose nuts and bolts on my Husky 395XP. I over tightened the nut holding the flywheel on the crank. Broke it off. It was an awful feeling. My neighbor told me to weld a flat washer on the end of the crank to hold the flywheel on. Does that sound possible to any of you guys.
Thanks

First off....Welcome to AS!
That is a very sick feeling!:confused: Having the wrench suddenly give way and parts drop off!

My neighbor told me to weld a flat washer on the end of the crank to hold the flywheel on. <-------- Big NO NO!! Find a replacement crank. I would consider that to be a HACK repair. IMO. Chalk it up to experience.

Like Rockfarmer said....
I would say no,.. replace the crank. The last thing you want is that coming off at 12000 rpm.

theres one on ebay for 65,..



Dan
 
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Just wondering why you were checking that? That would take alot of force to break that. I would imagine those nuts were torqued down from the manufacturer. Bummer though I was rebuilding a 16hp Briggs and used my impact to remove the nut but it was going forward instead of reverse and broke it.
 
A hack repair, and one that won't work.

You would need to find a flywheel and a crank then.

Why were you trying to tighten it?

Just how big of a boy are you?
 
i have a feeling who's getting the wrench here and its not a husky.



:cheers:


tro....
 
I agree that drilling and tapping the existing crankshaft would be a hack repair. Without some real precision equipment you'll never get the thing well centered, aligned, and balanced. When you do buy the replacement crankshaft, do yourself a favor and buy a torque wrench also. In my younger years I was also too strong for my own good and twisted off many bolt heads and stripped many threads. I've learned that the torque wrench is a real friend. I have two cheap Sears beam types, one 0-600 in. lbs., and the other 0-150 ft. lbs. They've saved me a lot of grief over the years.
 
I agree that drilling and tapping the existing crankshaft would be a hack repair. Without some real precision equipment you'll never get the thing well centered, aligned, and balanced. When you do buy the replacement crankshaft, do yourself a favor and buy a torque wrench also. In my younger years I was also too strong for my own good and twisted off many bolt heads and stripped many threads. I've learned that the torque wrench is a real friend. I have two cheap Sears beam types, one 0-600 in. lbs., and the other 0-150 ft. lbs. They've saved me a lot of grief over the years.

When I was still doing tree work, and building Jeeps, my buddies that I wrenched with use to call my 1/2" ratchet the "Ratchet of Death", anytime I brought it out, something was getting broken.

After one particularly bad evening of "repairs" (more breaking than fixing), when I came into the shop the next morning all my socket sets and ratchets/breaker bars were missing except my 1/4" drive stuff. Had to make a run to the tool store to buy 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive torque wrenches before my tools showed back up :)

I'm betting in this case an impact gun was involved...
 
When I was still doing tree work, and building Jeeps, my buddies that I wrenched with use to call my 1/2" ratchet the "Ratchet of Death", anytime I brought it out, something was getting broken.

After one particularly bad evening of "repairs" (more breaking than fixing), when I came into the shop the next morning all my socket sets and ratchets/breaker bars were missing except my 1/4" drive stuff. Had to make a run to the tool store to buy 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive torque wrenches before my tools showed back up :)

I'm betting in this case an impact gun was involved...

That was very cleaver of your wrenching buddies! I'll have to remember that one!

Bigbuck.....did you have your impact out with 150 lbs of air behind it?
 
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I use a 3/8" impact wrench made by Husky that is underpowered for the most part. Used the impact wrench on an Echo clutch nut several times and stripped the nut when I needed to tighten it the last time. That was the only time the impact was too powerful for tightening a nut on a saw. Knowing you are removing a left or right hand nut is key to not damaging your nut, or in this case your flywheel. Certainly a 1/2" drive impact wrench would destroy a crankshaft or strip a nut, too much torque. I would agree the crank shaft will need to be replaced. :cry: I feel for you dude!
Husqvarna 257 261wanna be an XP 61 254xp 357xp 346xp
Pohusky 141
Jonsered 625 630 670 670 670 2065 2050 2065
Echo 500VL
:chainsawguy:
 
It ought to be a federal law that impact guns only have reverse. I have had MANY SAE cert. mechanics ruin various stuff on my cars with those things.

Get a torque wrench and use it with the following sequence. Find the torque spec and divide it by 3. Torque the nut to 1/3 then 2/3 then full torque. That is the proper method.

Last time I got tires on my BMW I had to jump on a 4 foot pipe to loosen my lugnuts. The store got some NASTY feedback on their website.
 
I was checking for loose nuts and bolts on my Husky 395XP. I over tightened the nut holding the flywheel on the crank. Broke it off. It was an awful feeling. My neighbor told me to weld a flat washer on the end of the crank to hold the flywheel on. Does that sound possible to any of you guys.
Thanks


Don't feel too bad. I just did that to a 125 mac right after a complete rebuild. I have another crank on the way, but man was i pi$$ed.
 
I agree that drilling and tapping the existing crankshaft would be a hack repair. Without some real precision equipment you'll never get the thing well centered, aligned, and balanced. When you do buy the replacement crankshaft, do yourself a favor and buy a torque wrench also. In my younger years I was also too strong for my own good and twisted off many bolt heads and stripped many threads. I've learned that the torque wrench is a real friend. I have two cheap Sears beam types, one 0-600 in. lbs., and the other 0-150 ft. lbs. They've saved me a lot of grief over the years.

No that repair might work fine, but that wasn't suggested.
Welding a washer on top to attempt to repair it wouldn't
work, the flywheel would spin.
 
I came into the shop the next morning all my socket sets and ratchets/breaker bars were missing except my 1/4" drive stuff.

I would have left you all the sockets, 1/4" drive implements, a 1/4" to 3/8" step up adapter, and 3/8" to 1/2" step up. That way you could turn anything, but not more than 20ft-lb. :cheers:
 
What is the deal with Huskies falling apart. I was out with my brother in law one time and his muffler fell right off. I have never had to check for loose parts on any saw I have ever owned. I have had Macs, Poulans, and now Stihl. :spam:
 
I would have left you all the sockets, 1/4" drive implements, a 1/4" to 3/8" step up adapter, and 3/8" to 1/2" step up. That way you could turn anything, but not more than 20ft-lb. :cheers:

I've since made sure to have a cheater bar for my 1/4" drive stuff :) The Snapon dude and Sears hardware folks hate seeing me walk in. I keep a box under the bench for my broken tools.
 
I've since made sure to have a cheater bar for my 1/4" drive stuff :) The Snapon dude and Sears hardware folks hate seeing me walk in. I keep a box under the bench for my broken tools.

The consumer grade Craftsman tools these days are junk chine 'steel' anyways, might as well be tin. I hit up swap shops etc and buy all the old American and Japanese steel tools.
 
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