Blocking tree down without face notch

[T O Double D]

My family had a guy that works for the local power company climb and block a tree down as side work for him. I wasn’t there and I’m curious as to the reason he chose to make one cut passed 50% then another on the opposing side a little lower, then break the block off in the direction he wanted it to go. Tree was 20-24” in diameter, very dead, Ponderosa Pine. I’ve only seen people make a normal face cut/back cut when blocking trees down.

 

[ATH]

To keep the piece sitting there until he wanted to push it off.

 

[Del_]

I've done it a lot.

Snap cut.

 

[arathol]

The snap cut is easier, faster and safer. After you have done the pass cuts, the piece is still stable and won't move while you put the saw down. Once you have two free hands you can easily control the fall by pushing the piece off. Its a directional cut also, so its easier to get the piece to go where you want without rigging or pulling with a line.

 

[T O Double D]

Ok makes sense now. I was thinking it’d be harder, since you have to snap the the peice off. I wasn’t thinking about being able to put the saw down. That completely changes it.

Would it be more difficult with a green tree?

 

[arathol]

No, doesn't make much difference.
Take a look on Youtube, there are some good videos that explain the snap cut and how its used.

 

[T O Double D]

Right on. Thanks for the info gentlemen.

 

[Bearcreek]

Ok makes sense now. I was thinking it’d be harder, since you have to snap the the peice off. I wasn’t thinking about being able to put the saw down. That completely changes it.

Would it be more difficult with a green tree?

Depends on the tree. You have to know the characteristics of the wood you're working with. The holding wood might need to be thicker or thinner depending on the species and whether or not the tree is dead and for how long.