Bolting a split trunk

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I think we agree on more points than we disagree. I am just not inclined to cut down trees because they have flaws. Of all the catastrophic tree failures that I see, I don't think I have ever seen a multi-stem silver maple fail at the base unless it was blatantly rotten.

On the other hand, they lose lots of top branches in practically every ice storm. The tree pictured in this thread appears to have had quite a bit of lion-tailing in the past, so I assume that it really doesn't have a very big load on the split.

I didn't see any prominent targets beneath it either, so I vote to keep it. When I get a customer that asks me about the health of the tree, I always ask them if they would rather keep the tree, or cut it down.

This "customer" said "I'd really like to save it if possible anyway, or at least keep it standing until it dies". My response to that, based on my rather extensive experience at cutting down and trimming silver maples is to keep the tree.
 
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I think we agree on more points than we disagree. ....

I didn't see any prominent targets beneath it...

This "customer" said "I'd really like to save it if possible anyway, or at least keep it standing until it dies". My response to that, based on my rather extensive experience at cutting down and trimming silver maples is to keep the tree.

I can definately see your perspective on those points, and don't disagree... I just reached a different conclusions. I think that is because we start with a different mindset. Like you said, you are starting from "the customer wants to keep the tree", and I am starting from "play it safe". I guess our respective starting places influence how we weigh each piece of the puzzle differently. I can't say either is wrong as a general operating principle as I don't think I have ignored the customer's wishes any more than you have ignored the safety of the situation...just different perspectives. If he keeps it and it splits next week, I will have been right (though I'd cringe more than smile if it splits). If he keeps it and it stays there for 10 years I will have been wrong (and I'll smile more than cringe if the tree remains safe).

As the OP recognized, there will be differing opinions. Hopefully those have made for fruitful conversations!
 
I have cabled a few trees by drilling through the trunk, inserting galvanized eye bolts, connecting with chain or high strength cable and thimbles to turnbuckles. The turnbuckles need to be loose enough to allow static movement of the tree in stormy weather. This type of system is more support than it is a retainer. I have also used Cobra cabling systems but the product life is rated at eight years because it is deteriorated by UV rays of the sun.

The purpose of web straps is a temporary bond while the tree rod is being I stalled. Three years ago I used four big straps to hold a split codominant red oak trunk while we removed the entire tree close to two buildings. The tree measured 80 rings of growth, 58" dbh, 18 major limb structures and the stump base was nine feet across. Inside the trunk was metal pipe, welded wire fence, barbed wire, a horseshoe, twisted shank nails and a screwdriver. I hope to never get one like this again for I ruined my Stihl 066 Magnum doing it.



That was one hell of a tree.
 
Pics can always be deceiving but it doesn't look like too expensive of a removal. That could probably by done for around 600... or less if you just hire someone to chunk it down and you do the clean up.
 
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