Breaking in a New Chain Saw Chain

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Bruce Hopf

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I was wondering, how you other Guys, Break in your new Chain Saw Chains.
I like to let my chains soak in Bar Oil plastic tub with a lid on it, for over night, and let them hang for over another night, to let the some of the excess Bar Oil drip off them into another plastic tub, so I don't get Bar Oil, all over the floor. I then install the New Chain onto the Chain Saw, and take the saw outside.
Being that my old McCulloch Chain Saws, have Manual Oiler's as well, I pump extra Bar Oil onto the New Chain, while running the saw at mid way to wide open, but not wide open. I run the Chain Saw like this, for about 5 to 10 minutes. After that I then retighten up the New Chain, and cut wood for a few minutes, and check the chain tension again for tightness.
So I was wondering how you Fellas on AS break in your New Chains? I know that there are Makes of Chain Saws out there that do not have Manual Oilers on them, and it would be nice to see how you Guys go about New Chainsaw Chain Break in. Thanks. Bruce.
 
I guess I have never thought about it. I just always put a new chain on and start cutting wood. When it gets loose, I tighten it. When it gets dull, I sharpen it. When it gets old, I replace it.

I do not know if soaking it would extend the life of the chain, but it seems like if it did it would be too little to worry about for myself.

Adam
 
Wow. Didn't know anyone used any kind of procedure for this. I put it on, crank it down tight, and start cutting till it looks loose. Then I tighten it up. What type of benefits does your procedure offer? 5-10 minutes of chainsaw revving on the job seems pointless to me.
 
Well, I guess i'm hard on one. I usually will change a rim when putting on a new chain especially if it's been on a while. But after that it just gets put on and run. I will check for tightness after a little bit.
 
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Never heard of this one before... I put them on and bury them from the start. I will check and tighten often as needed. I agree on revving the saw for 10 minutes being useless:dizzy: The only time I rev the engine is to warm it up for a couple minutes or when I'm tuning it.. My saws rarely see full throttle unless it's in wood.
 
More AS overengineering...

Chains do not need any sort of break in period. Why on earth would anyone take 2 days to soak and hang a chain to drip dry is beyond me...

Not tryin' to be smart here... but it just doesn't make sense to me. :confused:

Gary
 
More AS overengineering...

Chains do not need any sort of break in period. Why on earth would anyone take 2 days to soak and hang a chain to drip dry is beyond me...

Not tryin' to be smart here... but it just doesn't make sense to me. :confused:

Gary



Now Gary...........Overengineering is a good thing......:) :)
 
Bruce, are all the saws you run manual oilers?

That actually may be a good idea if so. Don't let the bastages get you down saying it's ovainjuneerin! :biggrinbounce2:
 
I appreciate your method as well. Although, I'm not sure if it extends the lifespan of the chain. I wouldn't be afraid to stray from the technique.
 
Bruce, are all the saws you run manual oilers?

That actually may be a good idea if so. Don't let the bastages get you down saying it's ovainjuneerin! :biggrinbounce2:

Oh, P-shaw... Work crews in the woods would have gone broke waitin' for their chains to "soak and hang" to "break them in"...

Lots of those big ol' manual oiler saws were used right where I am now... nobody ever soaked the chains and hung them...

My big old Homelites and Macs that I have with manual oilers, cut like a scalded dog... no soaking or hanging of chains is required... :)

Gary
 
More AS overengineering...

Chains do not need any sort of break in period. Why on earth would anyone take 2 days to soak and hang a chain to drip dry is beyond me...

Not tryin' to be smart here... but it just doesn't make sense to me. :confused:

Gary

....or Oregon overenegineering...........:givebeer:

I believe Oregon recommends about what the initial post described, but to a lesser extent.

I did what Oregon decribes a couple of times some years ago, but I soon quit doing it - as I don't really see the point either.......
 
I don't pick up a saw daily, but when I do I want it to work reliably and not give it any second thoughts. I don't have a stack of spare bars or loops at my disposal but new chains get run a bit to 'wear in' with some extra 30w oil added to the bar to float out anything left behind by another chain. Old chains get cleaned up by shaking in a can of kerosene, blown dry and stored in some ND 30W till they get used again.

Some people go through enough chains, bars and rims that they are considered a dispoable item. I like to see mine last and try to "get all the goody out of them" that I can. Might be the difference between cutting for a living and cutting for heat, making a living by other means.

If it works for you why change it ?
 
I soak all of mine in "Marvel Mystery Oil" for a week, it impregnates the steel
and my chains last 47.5% longer on the Stihl chains, and 67.388% longer
on Oregon, and prevents them from ripping apart on the first cut.

Tri-link doesn't need any help...............
 
I soak all of mine in "Marvel Mystery Oil" for a week, it impregnates the steel
and my chains last 47.5% longer on the Stihl chains, and 67.388% longer
on Oregon, and prevents them from ripping apart on the first cut.

Tri-link doesn't need any help...............

Marvel Mystery Oil rocks! I've had great success using it to pre-condition my bar nuts. After that treatment and if i don't lose them, I find that those nuts will last the lifetime of the saw.
 

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