Breaking in a New Chain Saw Chain

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Don't act stupid on this one, you know only to use Mercon on the pre 78 chains and Dexron III works on all 79 and later chains. Dexron II can be used though on 79 to 94 chains if Dexron III is not available.

:poke:






















If you are new to the site, just run the stinkin' chain with oil in the saw and don't worry about it. If you feel the desire to soak it, then by all means soak it. I don't.

Sometimes it dont pay to get up LOL
 
See page 34 of this Oregon manual...pretty close to the OP's method...

http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/ms_manual/ms_02.pdf

Tzed250. Thanks for Backing me up on this matter. If you look at Oregon's Web Page that Tzed250 has shown, on Page 21, and 34 explains why you need to soak, and break in your chains. If this doesn't help, or convince, read the following. I used to be a Transport Truck Driver, and I used to haul several loads of Steal into the Oregon Plant, and several loads of Oregon Products out of Guelph, Ontario. I used to walk the lines while waiting for to be unloaded, or to be reloaded, or a load to get organized for shipping, and for paper work. It was a very interesting place to be in, and see how the Chains where made, and how the Guide Bars where stamped, and assembled. It was a good experience
The idea behind soaking your chains over night with Bar Oil, is because when the Chain Links, Cutters and Drive Tangs are made, they come out of the forge white Hot, and dipped in some type of coating, and then dipped into cooling oil, to temper the steel.
They then Links, and Cutters go into the press to be riveted together, and put into rolls of what ever length is ordered.
The oil residue left on the chains, is to prevent them from rusting, and it is not a lubricating oil. That is why the chains should be soaked in some type of lubricating oil over night, so that the links have sufficient oil prior to installing the Chain onto the Saw, and Bar, so that the joints get to hot at the start, which can weaken the joints of the chain, and any type of heat can, and will take out the temper of the steal.
Now when you first put a new chain onto the Saw, and Bar, it binds, and drags quit a bit. This is caused by the Coating on the Drive Tang,of the Chain Links, and Cutters, and this has to be worn off a little bit, so that the chain will travel smoothly in the groves of the Guide Bar. In order to achieve this, you have to run your saw at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, for a few minutes. Then re tighten the chain after a few minutes, allowing to cool.
Not doing this procedure, will cause premature wear on both the Guide Bar, and Chain, causing too much unnessasery heat, and friction on both components.
Once you start cutting, you do light cutting for a while, then check again for tension, and readjust if needed.
I know Large Logging Companies do not do this procedure is because the more chains, and guide bars is a Tax Right Off, and that is Good Business, but for me, and a lot of you on AS, It is more than Practical for this Practice. I don't know about you Guys, But I need to get back and more every little bit I can get out of My Equipment, and the longer I can get out of My Equipment like my Bars, and Chains, is a Huge Savings in the end. That is My Right Off. Bruce.
 
I know Large Logging Companies do not do this procedure is because the more chains, and guide bars is a Tax Right Off, and that is Good Business, but for me, and a lot of you on AS, It is more than Practical for this Practice. I don't know about you Guys, But I need to get back and more every little bit I can get out of My Equipment, and the longer I can get out of My Equipment like my Bars, and Chains, is a Huge Savings in the end. That is My Right Off. Bruce.

In no way are logging companies and professional cutters not doing this soak and hang procedure to be a tax WRITE off... :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

It all boils down to time in the field cuttin'... the casual cutter/saw collector/firewood dude/typical chainsaw overengineer might want to use this procedure... (for what reason I have no idea) but it would just not be productive to a cuttin' company to not be able to take a chain out of the box and toss it on a saw and get back to work...

Saw boss: "Fer cryin' out loud rookie... what are ya sittin' around for?"

Rookie: "I just opened up a new box of chain and I'm waitin' for it to soak in bar oil overnight."

Sawboss: "Are you kiddin' me? Huck that chain on the friggin' saw and get cuttin'... or take a long walk off a short spar..."

:laugh:

You can try to back up your claim all you want... I still say P-shaw... :popcorn:

Kinda like the whole "pull the starter cord out 6 inches when you shut off your saw" deal...

Sorry... not buyin' it.

Gary
 
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What exactly do you all mean by "break in"?

You normally replace a chain when the cutters have no tooth left.

If you put a new chain on a worn out sprocket, then there will be some
"break in" and stretching, but will soaking help that?

Wear on a bar is from lack of lube on the bar, and running a worn strectched
dull chain, wear on a sprocket is from a streched worn dull chain, etc....
 
I can't see petting and pamperin a new chain for days only to have it ruined in seconds by a nail, concrete, horseshoe or whatever some dumbass has put in a tree thats in his yard. Put it on and go.:chainsaw:
 
Tzed250. Thanks for Backing me up on this matter. If you look at Oregon's Web Page that Tzed250 has shown, on Page 21, and 34 explains why you need to soak, and break in your chains.

<snip> Bruce.

Bruce, if it makes you feel any better (but really, what does it matter what others do and say ;) ) I also soak my chains o/night prior to use.
 
I know Large Logging Companies do not do this procedure is because the more chains, and guide bars is a Tax Right Off, and that is Good Business, but for me, and a lot of you on AS, It is more than Practical for this Practice. I don't know about you Guys, But I need to get back and more every little bit I can get out of My Equipment, and the longer I can get out of My Equipment like my Bars, and Chains, is a Huge Savings in the end. That is My Right Off. Bruce.
Uh huh. Let's assume without questioning, that your method will add 10% to the life of the chain--a very dubious claim at best. Who will benefit more from practicing your method? A homeowner who will only use at most 1 to 2 chains per year and spend more in oil costs than the saved chain cost, or a big business who will use 100's of chains per year and can treat dozens of chains at a time?

If it is not cost effective for a business to do, why would it be cost effective for a homeowner to do?

Yeah it's time to face up to the fact. You're anal retentive. :)
 
In no way are logging companies and professional cutters not doing this soak and hang procedure to be a tax WRITE off... :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

It all boils down to time in the field cuttin'... the casual cutter/saw collector/firewood dude/typical chainsaw overengineer might want to use this procedure... (for what reason I have no idea) but it would just not be productive to a cuttin' company to not be able to take a chain out of the box and toss it on a saw and get back to work...

You can try to back up your claim all you want... I still saw P-shaw... :popcorn:

Kinda like the whole "pull the starter cord out 6 inches when you shut off your saw" deal...

Sorry... not buyin' it.

Gary

Come on now, what is practical to one may not be practical to everyone else. :)

Adam
 
Wow this is getting entertaining. Have yet to have a chain get tossed for premature wear. I have a rack of chains that are prolly 40-50% left on the cutters I only use for plowing. Maybe some chains cost an awful lota money. Ill continue to throw new one on and run the saw. But then again I buy chain in 100' rolls so its only about 15 dollars a pop for105 link chain. Get an excavator and lets really grow this mole hill.:popcorn:
 
Fish did it again...

Post #17 and following, Fish always makes me smile.

Old McCulloch manuals were all very clear in their instructions, soak a new chain before use and store them soaking in oil if the say will be unused for a while.

Needless to say I don't soak mine, though some of the e-bay and other collected saws have very stiff rusty chain when they arrive, several are soaking in the parts washer right now.

One good way to minimize corrosion of magnesium (another thread) is to run the saw and really oil it up good before setting in on the shelf. Now instead of resting on a damp shelf, it sets in a puddle of it own oil.

Even at $7.99 a gallon bar oil is pretty cheap, use plenty.

Mark
 
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