See page 34 of this Oregon manual...pretty close to the OP's method...
http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/ms_manual/ms_02.pdf
Tzed250. Thanks for Backing me up on this matter. If you look at Oregon's Web Page that Tzed250 has shown, on Page 21, and 34 explains why you need to soak, and break in your chains. If this doesn't help, or convince, read the following. I used to be a Transport Truck Driver, and I used to haul several loads of Steal into the Oregon Plant, and several loads of Oregon Products out of Guelph, Ontario. I used to walk the lines while waiting for to be unloaded, or to be reloaded, or a load to get organized for shipping, and for paper work. It was a very interesting place to be in, and see how the Chains where made, and how the Guide Bars where stamped, and assembled. It was a good experience
The idea behind soaking your chains over night with Bar Oil, is because when the Chain Links, Cutters and Drive Tangs are made, they come out of the forge white Hot, and dipped in some type of coating, and then dipped into cooling oil, to temper the steel.
They then Links, and Cutters go into the press to be riveted together, and put into rolls of what ever length is ordered.
The oil residue left on the chains, is to prevent them from rusting, and it is not a lubricating oil. That is why the chains should be soaked in some type of lubricating oil over night, so that the links have sufficient oil prior to installing the Chain onto the Saw, and Bar, so that the joints get to hot at the start, which can weaken the joints of the chain, and any type of heat can, and will take out the temper of the steal.
Now when you first put a new chain onto the Saw, and Bar, it binds, and drags quit a bit. This is caused by the Coating on the Drive Tang,of the Chain Links, and Cutters, and this has to be worn off a little bit, so that the chain will travel smoothly in the groves of the Guide Bar. In order to achieve this, you have to run your saw at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, for a few minutes. Then re tighten the chain after a few minutes, allowing to cool.
Not doing this procedure, will cause premature wear on both the Guide Bar, and Chain, causing too much unnessasery heat, and friction on both components.
Once you start cutting, you do light cutting for a while, then check again for tension, and readjust if needed.
I know Large Logging Companies do not do this procedure is because the more chains, and guide bars is a Tax Right Off, and that is Good Business, but for me, and a lot of you on AS, It is more than Practical for this Practice. I don't know about you Guys, But I need to get back and more every little bit I can get out of My Equipment, and the longer I can get out of My Equipment like my Bars, and Chains, is a Huge Savings in the end. That is My Right Off. Bruce.