Briggs 22HP motor problems? Help

[Greenthorn]

Neighbor has a husky lawnmower with a 22 HP briggs straton motor. Briggs & Stratton 441777-0130 22 HP Intek Series Twin Cylinder.
Thing runs fine for about 10 to 15 minutes, then acts like it is bogging down after good n warmed up. Pulling on the choke seems to alleviate the issue some, but then after a few minutes starts doing the same thing till it eventually dies. I have replace the fuel lines gas and gas filter and cleaned carb, but I am still unsure if it could be something else, after replacing that stuff, it runs the same...nothing changed, what else should I be looking for, could something electrical be doing this? Any help is much appreciated, the guy is broke and doesn't have money to take it to someone qualified (he probably made a bigger mistake by asking this dumbass to work on it) I've been mowing his yard, and I would like to get him back to mowing.

 

[Hillbilly3995]

Check for insufficient valve clearance. HTH -Hillbilly

 

[BigE]

I'm assuming you've checked the plugs?

Fuel pump is good and pressure is good?

 

[treemandan]

Check for insufficient valve clearance. HTH -Hillbilly

The piston and valve clearance?

 

[treemandan]

Neighbor has a husky lawnmower with a 22 HP briggs straton motor. Briggs & Stratton 441777-0130 22 HP Intek Series Twin Cylinder.
Thing runs fine for about 10 to 15 minutes, then acts like it is bogging down after good n warmed up. Pulling on the choke seems to alleviate the issue some, but then after a few minutes starts doing the same thing till it eventually dies. I have replace the fuel lines gas and gas filter and cleaned carb, but I am still unsure if it could be something else, after replacing that stuff, it runs the same...nothing changed, what else should I be looking for, could something electrical be doing this? Any help is much appreciated, the guy is broke and doesn't have money to take it to someone qualified (he probably made a bigger mistake by asking this dumbass to work on it) I've been mowing his yard, and I would like to get him back to mowing.

Then lend him your mower and tell him to mow your while he's at and forget the whole thing... til he wrecks your mower.
How did you clean the carb? Drop the bowl? Sounds like fuel problem but that other guy said something about valve clearance and I am not sure I understand that.

 

[Greenthorn]

Yes, we've replaced plugs. No I havent actually tested fuel pump pressure, I was "assuming" since it runs fine for a little while, then starts acting up, that pump was fine? No, I haven't checked valve clearance, that a possiblity? I cleaned carb by taking off, soaking and cleaning, no I didn't use compressed air.
Compression check shows 160lbs in right cylinder and 150 in left cylinder. Got me baffled, and I wouldn't know where to begin to check valve clearance. I was just under the impression that it could be electrical, but I don't know what to check?

 

[Greenthorn]

Then lend him your mower

NOBODY touches my mower!
$12 grand mowers ain't cheap!

 

[Hillbilly3995]

The piston and valve clearance?

The valve clearance between the valve stem and tappet or rocker (lift mechanisim)
if the valve clearance gets too small, when the valve stem heats and elongates it raises the valve face off the seat slightly, causing the valve to leak.
Its a common procedure on Briggs and Strattons due to valve seat wear thus decreasing clearance.


PS. yes its a good possibility, insufficient clearance will cause one to run just as you describe, problem usually starts mildly gradually getting worse to the point that the engine becomes unusable. Easy fix, If you have to grind the valve stem use a new file measuring often, a grinder will quickly overdo it.

PSS. After rereading your posts I'm afraid you may be in a bit over your head at this point. Not wanting it to be said I didn't try to help, I'll make you my best offer: Haul it over here, I'll show ya what to take off of it then I'll do a first class valve job on it and show you how to put it back together. Hows Sunday afternoon for you?

 

[Greenthorn]

I'm afraid you may be in a bit over your head at this point. Not wanting it to be said I didn't try to help, I'll make you my best offer: Haul it over here, I'll show ya what to take off of it then I'll do a first class valve job on it and show you how to put it back together. Hows Sunday afternoon for you?

Yep, over my head. I hate B/S motors, always have. Thanks for your offer, I think bringing it to you would cost more than the mower is worth! It is a shame, this motor only has 120 hours on it, guess I will keep mowing his yard. Thanks for the tips everybody, just wished it would be something simpler.

 

[Greenthorn]

On another note, got a quick reference to what the valve clearance specs are for this motor?

 

[treemandan]

The valve clearance between the valve stem and tappet or rocker (lift mechanisim)
if the valve clearance gets too small, when the valve stem heats and elongates it raises the valve face off the seat slightly, causing the valve to leak.
Its a common procedure on Briggs and Strattons due to valve seat wear thus decreasing clearance.


PS. yes its a good possibility, insufficient clearance will cause one to run just as you describe, problem usually starts mildly gradually getting worse to the point that the engine becomes unusable. Easy fix, If you have to grind the valve stem use a new file measuring often, a grinder will quickly overdo it.

PSS. After rereading your posts I'm afraid you may be in a bit over your head at this point. Not wanting it to be said I didn't try to help, I'll make you my best offer: Haul it over here, I'll show ya what to take off of it then I'll do a first class valve job on it and show you how to put it back together. Hows Sunday afternoon for you?

I was thinking that was what you meant.

 

[Hillbilly3995]

On another note, got a quick reference to what the valve clearance specs are for this motor?

No, not right off hand but shooting from the hip I'd say .006-.009 on the intakes
.009-.012 on the exhausts

Many lawn mower shops just set at .010 and .010
(a bit too much will work, a bit too little will not)

To the OP just call around and ask what they charge for a valve job on a twin B&S
dont go to the place with computers and lots of shiny new stuff, go to the two old men that work a little slower and do a good job at a reasonable price...Best of Luck!


PS. check carefully it COULD have adjustable valves, in which case it will be EASY to fix.

 

[stevohut]

If you still are having a problem with the motor and want some help just pm me and I'll help you out. It's pretty basic stuff, but to a guy thats never done it before it can be frustrating. I've just about seen everything that can possibly go wrong with lawn and garden equip. I used to be a small engine tech and I run a little business on my own fixing stuff. Happy to help a guy out. Everybody has to start somewhere we aren't born knowing this stuff.

steve

 

[Topshelf]

Same issue on mine

Does anyone think this issue could be a carb issue still? I'm having the same issue with mine and it's the same motor. I'm debating about taking the carb off and going through it but also don't want to waste my ktime and dollars rebuilding it if it's for sure a valve issue?

Mine started the end if last season. I changed fuel filters, fuel pump, fuel lines and still have the same issue. I've read about OEM carb issues on this mower but don't want to spend 250 on a new carb chasing a guess. How can I confirm it's a valve clearance issue short of taking it to a shop?

I found this YouTube video that explains the how to of valve adjustment

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGkn0jR9RJM&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

[jdog2]

might just be bad coils. see it on older vehicles and outboards all the time as they heat up they start expanding just a tiny bit and the internals loose connection motor bogs out and dies. id think about the coil if it was me.

 

[Walt41]

Unplug the wire going to the bottom of the fuel bowl.

 

[jdog2]

Unplug the wire going to the bottom of the fuel bowl.

umm that little safety feature needs to be energized for the engine to run if you unplug it the solenoid wont be energized and it will not pull the needle thus blocking fuel flow. i forget about those little buggers. it could be faulty and causeing the problem as well.

 

[fishercat]

I still think it's the carb.

I think you missed something.

It also could be carboned up exhaust valves. Run some Sea Foam in the gas. Old K series Kohlers used to do the same thing as you describe.

 

[justme23005]

Check the vent in the gas cap.

 

[Jeff_M]

Neighbor has a husky lawnmower with a 22 HP briggs straton motor. Briggs & Stratton 441777-0130 22 HP Intek Series Twin Cylinder.
Thing runs fine for about 10 to 15 minutes, then acts like it is bogging down after good n warmed up. Pulling on the choke seems to alleviate the issue some, but then after a few minutes starts doing the same thing till it eventually dies. I have replace the fuel lines gas and gas filter and cleaned carb, but I am still unsure if it could be something else, after replacing that stuff, it runs the same...nothing changed, what else should I be looking for, could something electrical be doing this? Any help is much appreciated, the guy is broke and doesn't have money to take it to someone qualified (he probably made a bigger mistake by asking this dumbass to work on it) I've been mowing his yard, and I would like to get him back to mowing.

I would suspect not enough valve clearance also. A couple months ago I set the valves on my 2 year old 24HP Intek twin and they were too tight. Setting the valves raised the compression to 190 & 195 psi and made the mower run better, although if you have a weak battery it may be harder to crank over. I don't think my valves were set correctly when I purchased the new mower.