Bucking table mostly done

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I just put all of our stuff away today for the season. Won't get it out again until January next year. The last month has been a mud fest around here as well. This has to be one of our warmest and driest winters in a while.

Put it away? Summer is a bit slower for me, though many 5+ cord orders.
 
You have to realize that firewood is not my main business. Our main business is custom built home storage sheds for peoples backyards. We build sheds from now until were done, which is usually the first of the year. We do firewood in the 3 months of winter when we are caught up on sheds. I will build 150 storage sheds in the next 9 months. Were trying to get the firewood business built up to the point where I can have my employees working on that in the wintertime, that way I can keep them off of welfare for 3 months and it is easier to hire quality guys when you can guarantee them year round work. I'll get a couple of calls for campers needing firewood because our stuff is certified from the state of WI for statewide travel. But otherwise I won't get a call for a firewood sale until the end of September this year. People around here wait until the last minute to get wood. All of our wood is delivered from the day after labor day up until Thanksgiving. After that it gets pretty hit and miss depending on how cold it gets. We had a real mild winter again so people probably did not burn as often as they usually do so sales might be a bit light next year.
 
You have to realize that firewood is not my main business. Our main business is custom built home storage sheds for peoples backyards. We build sheds from now until were done, which is usually the first of the year. We do firewood in the 3 months of winter when we are caught up on sheds. I will build 150 storage sheds in the next 9 months. Were trying to get the firewood business built up to the point where I can have my employees working on that in the wintertime, that way I can keep them off of welfare for 3 months and it is easier to hire quality guys when you can guarantee them year round work. I'll get a couple of calls for campers needing firewood because our stuff is certified from the state of WI for statewide travel. But otherwise I won't get a call for a firewood sale until the end of September this year. People around here wait until the last minute to get wood. All of our wood is delivered from the day after labor day up until Thanksgiving. After that it gets pretty hit and miss depending on how cold it gets. We had a real mild winter again so people probably did not burn as often as they usually do so sales might be a bit light next year.

Interesting.

I'm very busy from August to March. April to July is orders mostly for people that plan ahead and campers.

Have plenty of "last second" ones too. Last week I even had a guy call me at 8pm and got quite upset that I couldn't deliver a cord that evening.
 
First cuts.

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I pulled the uprights as I realized they only support the log in 2 places which doesn't help when the cuts are past them. Had a 14' 2x12 from my dump trailer I wasn't using so I bolted that on the front. Should also serve to stiffen everything up and tie the top into the legs.

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I think it's all done. I'll need to add holes for sliding logs along its length to get an end lined up for cutting, but that should be it.


Sent from a field
 
When you add an end stop you may want to keep it a couple inches from the front stop so chips do not build up as quick. Then for lay out for cuts the kerf will be cumulative. If you cut a gage stick, say 16 1/2", should leave a 16 1/4" piece. If you measure 16, 32, 48, etc. you will be 2" short, or a 14" round, at the sixth cut due to the 1/4"-5/16" kerf. The 2 x 12 will work for a bit. However, the sections between kerfs will crack and split off, but you should get a season out of it. That's why I switched to a 4 x 6.
Didn't get to try mine out today. Had a chance to run a Dyna 16 firewood processor and couldn't pass it up.
 
I'm not going to add an end stop. That way I can load the table and line up with the closest cut line. I drilled a couple 1" holes in the middle timber roughly 4" apart to stick the point of the peavey into... I can adjust from either side and line up either way with the closest mark. I marked the top edge of the 2x12 every 20". Bucked sections range between 19.5 and 20". That will work perfect for the stoves and for stacking. As long as I'm under 21" and preferably over 19, anything in-between is right on.

I can see making a couple changes when its time to replace the cutting bed....
 
Fellas, I built this a couple of years ago and then set it aside to play with later. Later never seems to come though. I think it might be the next step in what you guys are trying to do. Saw is just mounted on using a big T strap hinge. It actually worked pretty good and I should have played with it more but I started on my 36" splitter build and that took a lot of my time. The logs actually moved too easy on the rollers so fewer rollers would not be an issue. I should have made it so I run the saw with my right hand but I thought maybe my stronger right hand should be used to hold the logs. A hand operated grab bar would be nicer and solider to hold the log. I was planning to drop the bigger rounds onto my conveyor and up onto a pile or onto a rounds staging wagon to be split later. It's sitting on my fenceline now with 100 other projects.
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I would love to try that but couldn't figure out how to mount the saw so it would be a solid mount, yet easy to remove to fuel/adjust chain. I've seen mounts that use the bar studs, but that doesn't sound easy unless longer studs were used.
I think a hydraulic clamp, chain log advance and a 5 hp Honda.
 
3/4" treated, with 190 fender washers and 2 1/2" screws. Kind of like truss plates with the a million little fingers that look like they would not hold anything, but they work. The top piece is some scrape 1/2" and probably will not survive long. I was going to use a 4 x 4 but the plywood is lower, so I thought I would try it. The 4 x 6's on the table hit the tire when moving it so they are not fastened.
Tomorrow a guys coming to dig out my 20' mud hole and build it back up, haul off a couple dug up stumps I'm tired of looking at, and level off where these decks are set up. So they are getting moved again today.
Yesterday was gorgeous. I spent most of it helping a guy that rented a Dyna SC-16 firewood processor. That was an education. They were splitting for outdoor boilers and the splits were huge. It was also a lot of work when a log would not move in the feed trough, or jammed on the six way. We soon learned what works and doesn't work. For the most part it went pretty smooth and rotated two dump trailers under the conveyor. There were four of us, which was a good number, as the splits were going to another farm.
 

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Yes there are top down lag bolts and carriage bolts for the cut table on both units. The rebuilt table has orange strips painted where the fasteners are. Just have not painted the other deck yet. I trim the logs knobs on the deck so it's good to have a reminder where the steel is. I also countersunk the lags, but only because they were a bit too short otherwise. Worked good on the larger table because the tire hit the two inboard timbers when picking it up to move. The front bump stop has all-thread connecting it to the first 4 x 6 layed flat, and that piece is carriage bolted down from the top to the top rails. The front stop gets some good hits rolling logs around, or pushing them forward with the forklift when loading the table. If you don't stack logs on the deck, then not so much of an issue. I will be moving the splitter when loading the decks.IMG_4527.jpg
 
Yes there are top down lag bolts and carriage bolts for the cut table on both units. The rebuilt table has orange strips painted where the fasteners are. Just have not painted the other deck yet. I trim the logs knobs on the deck so it's good to have a reminder where the steel is. I also countersunk the lags, but only because they were a bit too short otherwise. Worked good on the larger table because the tire hit the two inboard timbers when picking it up to move. The front bump stop has all-thread connecting it to the first 4 x 6 layed flat, and that piece is carriage bolted down from the top to the top rails. The front stop gets some good hits rolling logs around, or pushing them forward with the forklift when loading the table. If you don't stack logs on the deck, then not so much of an issue. I will be moving the splitter when loading the decks.View attachment 570008

I see the 4x4 bolted down to the 4x6... It was the 4x6 that I didn't see bolted to the legs. I assumed you were using the plywood as a means of attachment. Just looking at the log deck. Not the cutting platform, those are obvious.
 
Your right. 4 x 4's wrap the lower legs. Cutting table connects the top 4 x 6 rails. Lagging end grain on my wood racks often caused rot, and holds poorly anyway, so I did not do that. If I were to add anything, it would be a 4 x 4 cross tie above the rear legs, or a bolted 2 x 12 cross tie at the top foot of the rear legs like the old one had. (I did not have any 2 x 12 or I would have done it.) There is plywood there already, but there is a lot of racking pressure with 3,000 lbs of logs.
 
Sandhill, if I was to use it I would replace the hinge pin with a bolt with a small hole in it and a wire for a cotter key. Quick and easy to refuel. There is also a hose clamp over the front dog to keep the saw real tight as I didn't want to break an expensive saw. I've seen the ones using the bar nuts and I don't think they are very handy to fuel.
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With the old deck, the legs are 6' a part, front to back, and 8' of plywood. The plywood gives support from both sided of the legs, front to back. The new deck the legs are 8' front to back, and 8' plywood. 10' plywood was an option, but the cost of 8' treated was $29. and 10' treated was $60. I got the 8'.
 
Sandhill, if I was to use it I would replace the hinge pin with a bolt with a small hole in it and a wire for a cotter key. Quick and easy to refuel. There is also a hose clamp over the front dog to keep the saw real tight as I didn't want to break an expensive saw. I've seen the ones using the bar nuts and I don't think they are very handy to fuel.
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I have a similar set up that pins on to my log splitter making it into a processor of sorts. What I did was make my own hinge and plate exactly like you described, I used 3 pieces of 1/2 black iron pipe with a 1/2" rod going through and a bowtie pin or whatever you call it pin. It makes it a breeze to pull it off to refuel and oil. One of these days I'm going to set it up and take some pictures of it. OP, sorry to derail your thread. I like your table.
 
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