building a log cabin

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dxk9

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Hi All,
If I have Shortleaf PIne, Eastern White PIne or Loblolly PIne on my property along with yellow-poplar, eastern red-Cedar and black walnut and blackgum. Which would be the top choices for a log cablin? I think #1 would be red-cedar, then loblolly pine. Also, its a catch 22. I'm outside and I don't have anything built yet, so how can the wood dry? How long do I have to let it dry outside? Will a tarp work? Thanks for any help. I just have a chain saw at this point, but this will be in Sevierville, TN so I'm hoping to find a local mill. I don't have my own saw mill yet.
 

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Hi All,
If I have Shortleaf PIne, Eastern White PIne or Loblolly PIne on my property along with yellow-poplar, eastern red-Cedar and black walnut and blackgum. Which would be the top choices for a log cablin? I think #1 would be red-cedar, then loblolly pine. Also, its a catch 22. I'm outside and I don't have anything built yet, so how can the wood dry? How long do I have to let it dry outside? Will a tarp work? Thanks for any help. I just have a chain saw at this point, but this will be in Sevierville, TN so I'm hoping to find a local mill. I don't have my own saw mill yet.
I would suspect that the Cedar would be your best choice.

Although a lot more expensive, I would suggest looking at some Band Mills, for a project of that size. From what I have been hearing about the prices for lumber lately, a Band Mill, could be Very Cost effective. You could mill all you need with a CSM, but it would be VERY Time Consuming and Labor intensive. CSM’s have their places and uses, but they are generally more suited to low production levels and niche work like table tops and other furniture

Doug
 
Hey, I'm going to be vacationing up in Danville with my family in a couple weeks. Cool.

Check out this resource from woodmizer - you can find local sawyers in your area. https://woodmizer.com/us/Find-a-Local-Sawyer

The sawyers usually charge $70/hour plus a set up fee, and a charge for any blades for hitting metal. It's well worth your time and effort to hire one of them. Sometimes they charge by the board foot. Either way it's better than buying lumber, and better than doing it yourself with a chainsaw, or even with your own sawmill, since it takes a lot of time to learn how to mill properly. I've had mine for 6 months and still don't feel comfortable milling for others. And besides - you won't be able to get your own mill for a year at least. All companies have a HUGE backlog of orders right now.

You need to have your cut list ready - how many 2x4's, 2x8's, etc. and what lengths. He will then decide which logs are best for what, and will cut accordingly. Have a place to stack the wood once it's cut, and if you can get a LOT of stickers (usually 3/4" x 3/4" sticks) while you stack, that will save you time. I happen to have bought a large pallet of 1x8x10 boards, and they were all pretty bad, so I just run them through my tablesaw to make gobs of stickers.

Also, prepare your site however they tell you. They will want the logs stacked a certain way, in a certain area, etc. The more you help, the less you pay, so if you can get some GOOD HARDWORKING offloaders for him, then that will really help. Don't get some bum who doesn't like to work or it will only end up costing you more.

Most of what you have will need to dry for a year. Usually 1 year per inch, depending on the species. If you're going to be enclosing the walls with drywall or something, you don't want to trap moisture behind the walls, so they MUST be properly dried. If they won't be enclosed, then they can do a bit of drying in place, but you will have to allow for shrinkage. Most species shrink about 8% - 10% in width.

Don't dry it with a tarp. Stack it on a LEVEL area (use cinder blocks or something to get your bottom row of boards completely even), and stack on top of that with the stickers in between each layer of boards. Keep a space between the boards as well. Once you get the stack tall enough (whatever you like, really) put a final row of stickers and then a piece of cheap barn tin or something to shed the rainwater. Then put some weight on it - a dozen cinderblocks or so. That will help make sure the top rows are held in place while it dries. A tarp will only help keep the moisture inside, and you want good airflow through the stacks. Even if they get a bit wet in the rain, it's still in the process of drying from the inside, so an open stack (with tin on top) is still the best way to go.

You can call up a couple of the sawyers and get their advice on which species would be best for your project, how long they need to be cut down before milling, etc.
 
The lighter the wood the better it is for insulation. Plus easier to work with as a rule. Cedar is usually about the best. Pine is also good as a rule. Some better than others of course.

Log cabins are very expensive due to both materials and labor involved. This will be a large project but if you have the wood and the land you are already 1/2 there.

All kinds of ways to build a log cabin - each with pros and cons. Generally the thicker the log the better and more valuable the cabin.

Still rubbing eyes at the concept of drywalling over logs. Hmmm. Don't. do. that.

Also consider wood stability - a good reason to avoid poplar. I knew a guy with a poplar cabin. He had cracks that he measured in inches. Cedar is generally awesome though I can't recall details of studying eastern red cedar.

Walnut? World class furniture and cabinets comes to mind. Not a cabin!
 
My buddy had loggers in his area and they drink at the local bar. He made good friends with them. They supplied him with good straight logs. He debarked them and built a log cabin.
 

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