Building a rare one

[cuinrearview]

Last spring I sold a 2153 that I built, and I regretted it almost immediately. I went to ebay and bought another 2149 carcass. It's been sitting in a box ever since. I'd slowly been collecting parts; some nice, some just OK. My plans for it had changed as components came and went. Last month I acquired a really ugly OE 346 and I thought "I bet that 42mm jug would make a nice limbing saw". With the Dolmar 420 gone last fall and a heated 5001 makita planned to be ported as my main saw, I had an opening for something red that turns some "Rs". With the plastic saws out of my system for a while, it was time.

The tank, case and top cover are pretty nice. The rest is just OK. The jug has one broken fin but I don't ever plan on loading this saw real heavily so it should be fine.

 

[cuinrearview]

I got the parts all cleaned, the bottom end is tight and there's not much mileage on her so I left it intact.

 

[cuinrearview]

I've recently started doing a little grinding. I don't have good tools for this so my work is crude, but a little smoothing, widening, and raising shouldn't hurt. I'm not building a bucking saw here, so I can give up some torque for some speed.

Things are not as uneven as the pics make it look. You porting vets out there, take it easy on me.

 

[cuinrearview]

Last night I began assembly with a meteor and Yamabond 4 base gasket.

I know a lot of guys just continue assembly at this point, but I brought it inside and let it sit overnight to cure.

 

[cuinrearview]

Today I began assembly. I advanced the timing about a half key. The HDA-159 was re-built. New fuel line and 372 intake clamp.

 

[cuinrearview]

Here's the finished product. As far as I know the 2147 was never sold here. I'm sure a few have seen my want ad for some j-red parts. This is why. If you have a nice starter laying around this is what I'd like it for. I can live with the clutch cover and wrap but I am keeping any eye out for nicer versions of those too. I opened up the stock muffler outlet.

 

[cuinrearview]

Short vid. She's four stroking pretty good at ~14.5k. That's where it will stay for break in. I wanted a 15k saw for light work and I think I should have it.

 

[Ronie]

Nice looking saw.

 

[Sepia]

Very nice, Tim!

 

[DSW]

What tools have you been using to port?

I don't port saws so you'll get no criticism from me.

 

[cuinrearview]

What tools have you been using to port?

I don't port saws so you'll get no criticism from me.

Some die grinder bits in various sizes chucked into a drill. The pencil bit is your friend. Then sandpaper and scotch brite. It really helps with that setup to have a plan and start small.

 

[cuinrearview]

My forearms ache after a session.

 

[Sepia]

The flex shaft dremel works ok for us non-pros. You can sometimes find them super cheap in kijiji/craigslist

 

[DSW]

Yeah, drill seems like a tough way to do it.

I can appreciate that.

 

[cuinrearview]

The flex shaft dremel works ok for us non-pros. You can sometimes find them super cheap in kijiji/craigslist

I have that and I think it will help. I'm white trash though and feel like muscle can create precision.

 

[Huskybill]

I was using an old very old 1,000 black n decker silver and black drill for porting with carbide bits and flapper sanding drums for porting B.B. Chevys.

I did buy one of those foot pedal control motor, cable drive drill chucks too I think it was $400.

For the chain saws I have a Dremel with 1/8” shank carbide bits with small 1/8” shank shank drum sanders they come in a assortment size wise on eBay and Amazon.
If you want the port even smoother there is grit compounds like valve grinding grit with felt pads. Then use the car compound to go smoother. I never done it that smooth yet but I’m all set up for it. Porting is all about smoothing out the flow the more easier for the gas to flow the better. I’ll post pics when I port.

Since I haven’t been working out with chain saws my arms might hurt too. I need to get my strength back anyway.

 

[Huskybill]

Here’s one, https://www.amazon.com/SE-979FSG-Flexible-Grinder-Switch/dp/B000NW4YRK


https://www.amazon.com/McKay-Abrasive-Sanding-Rotary-Tools/dp/B01E7P3Y2Y

https://www.amazon.com/1-8-carbide-burr-metal-working/s?k=1/8+carbide+burr+metal+working

Don’t forget to deburr the port on the inside of the cylinder. I wrap a piece of fine sand paper on my finger to bevel the inside sharp edge.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

66dl of .325?

 

[cuinrearview]

66dl of .325?

Yes. I've been stubborn using 3/8. For limbing though I think that's the better setup for this saw. I won't mess with LP unless a GTG setup necessitates it.

 

[Sepia]

I have that and I think it will help. I'm white trash though and feel like muscle can create precision.

The problem with muscle is it aches all the time, then begins to disappear as you get older.

Then it REALLY aches