buy or build???? splitter

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bassman

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I just installed an outdoor boiler and i need a splitter to split this white green popalar i have been getting delivered.
do i build a splitter or buy one?????
I have a shop and a welder and juice is easy as i also hop a 64 .
are there guidelines to a proper list of parts or do i just start building??
is 5 hp too small ??
pro cons to build or buy??
thanks

shayne
 
In most cases unless you can get about half of your materials free, Its cheaper to go buy one. I recently built mine, I got the steel, wheels and tires, and hoses for free, everything else I bought and I was still more than buying one.

But if you are like just about anyone else on here who will chime in, youll get far more satisfaction out of building one, than buying one.

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Another way of looking at it...Look at Casey"s splitter. What would a custom made, heavy iron machine like that cost if even if you could find one to buy. If the dollars are equal,or even close, build your own. You get exactly what you want and you know its put together right.
 
One big advantage to building your own is putting the axle, wheels, motor, pump etc at the rear end out of the operator's way when running it. I can't recall seeing any commercial one that doesn't have them right where I would want to stand until you get up into the _big_ ones.

Yes, if you can't scrounge most of the parts, you will be money ahead to buy one. Just price out the cost of the hydraulic hoses and fittings - they think those things are made of gold. I built mine and only had to buy the motor and the hoses. Saved money but not nearly as much as one would think. Some of the parts were rather ...errr...hot shall we say? I worked in an equipment manuifacturing plant at the time.

Harry K
 
Built it, if you want to.

Figure your time is free. Parts are cheap, or free. You would end up with a grand in it withour even trying. However!

The point has been made that you can put it together stronger than most factory models, and build it the way you want it.

Do a search on this website and get some ideas of what would work well for you. 5 hp will work against a 11 gpm 2 stage pump. More is better, to a degree. It depends on how fast you want it to run.

My $0.02 worth,
-pat
 
If you can wait, start looking for a used one. I came across one that I picked up for $200. I've had to spend some money upgrading and beefing it up, but it was a cheap way to get started.
 
Patrick62 said:
Figure your time is free.


Really? Mine sure as he!! isn't. I charge quite nicely for my time. Everything has a price or a trade-off.

I personally would rather buy one and have it producing income.


Having said that, some folks dig that fabricating stuff and the enjoyment and sense of accomplishment may offset the cost of their time invested in fabrication and the scavenger hunt looking for cheap or free parts.
 
what would i need to split a log 10 inches across and 3 ft in length??
reason i ask is that i see you guys are splitting huge stuff and here i dont think i will ever see a log bigger than 12 inches across.
so with that in mind maybe a smaller unit from a box store might work??
shayne
 
I'm in the process of building one.Its a stationary with a bobtach on the back so i can move it when needed with my bobcat.It has a 19HP 3 cyl diesel a 28 GPM pump 5" cylinder and a 22 gallon tank. Will be finished soon as time permits.I'd imagine it will be sufficient to get going in the firewood business.
 
If I added in my time...

... then it would be cheaper to buy something. I like creating stuff so it is fun once in awhile. Back to bassman's project:

3 foot long but not a lot of diameter. I will stick my $0.04 worth in here,

Would 5hp be enough? Maybe not for a 30" cylinder. I am curious if a 30" cylinder set 6" back from the wedge would split 36" stuff reliably? If so, then it would be a cheaper cylinder and the cycle time might be faster. If the wood resembles green bubblegum then a full stroke is going to be needed. This is where a larger pump would be nice as cycle time could be faster, but requires a larger engine.

36" by 4" cylinder, 16 gpm pump, 8hp engine. would probably be a safe starting point. Biggest honking I beam you can find. Then beef it up as at this length the thing is going to want to twist and bend pretty bad. Oh, solve the twist by building a "lazy suzan" push block. Allows the log to "twist".

-pat
 
I was talking to another boiler owner tonight and he said that you just need to open up the log and not to split it in two.
birch and popalar from what i understaND will rot befor it is dry cause the bark is like a vapor barrier .
this is also why some choose these trees to build a shelter belt as they resist fire .
so with that in mind i may be able to get away a little smaller .
BUT i have options .... i have a ford 9n tractor with a small hydraulic system that i am sure would run a small ram.
anything i end up doing i will do with the idea that it will end up big.
I will get i beam that is 6 ft long so when i go with a bigger ram i can.
if i buy a ram i will buy a logsplitting one but for now i am sure i can find a farmer neighbor with a used one.
pumps and controlls i will look for free or cheap used .
I am still having fun

shayne
 
Patrick62 said:
... then it would be cheaper to buy something. I like creating stuff so it is fun once in awhile. Back to bassman's project:

3 foot long but not a lot of diameter. I will stick my $0.04 worth in here,

Would 5hp be enough? Maybe not for a 30" cylinder. I am curious if a 30" cylinder set 6" back from the wedge would split 36" stuff reliably? If so, then it would be a cheaper cylinder and the cycle time might be faster. If the wood resembles green bubblegum then a full stroke is going to be needed. This is where a larger pump would be nice as cycle time could be faster, but requires a larger engine.

36" by 4" cylinder, 16 gpm pump, 8hp engine. would probably be a safe starting point. Biggest honking I beam you can find. Then beef it up as at this length the thing is going to want to twist and bend pretty bad. Oh, solve the twist by building a "lazy suzan" push block. Allows the log to "twist".

-pat

The HP of your motor is dependent on the GPM of your pump, not your cylinder size. You need a minimum of 1/2 hp for every GPM of your pump. Your pump size will determine how fast your cylinder will cycle.
 
Patrick62 said:
I will stick my $0.04 worth in here,-pat


See, your time has doubled in value in this thread alone.:biggrinbounce2:


The "MTD" type splitters that you can buy will get you a max length capacity of 26" usually.
 
Patrick62 said:
...

<snip>

Would 5hp be enough? Maybe not for a 30" cylinder. I am curious if a 30" cylinder set 6" back from the wedge would split 36" stuff reliably? If so, then it would be a cheaper cylinder and the cycle time might be faster. If the wood resembles green bubblegum then a full stroke is going to be needed. This is where a larger pump would be nice as cycle time could be faster, but requires a larger engine.

<snip>

-pat

We built several (IIRC 7) of one basic design. We always set the ram so at full extension it was about 3-4" shy of the wedge. Very few pieces require running the ram full lenght before they fall apart. Those that are tough and stringy that don't are finished by backing the ram off and inserting a chunk of wood sidwise. Of course we were hampered with only 18" cylinders so wanted a bit more capacity. I would recommend that approach anyhow just on general principle even when using long cylinders.

Point about the splitting wedge. Many people suggest setting them at an angle so the wood won't 'ride up'. Nope, it ain't going to ride up once the split starts. The real reason for an angle is so the split starts at a point on the wedge vice the full length of the wedge. I set mine verticle but wish I had angled it. My power is a bit on the weak side and it is common to hit a block that won't split just layed in but will split if I angle it.

Harry K
 
thanks for all the info!!

in that exact boat right now. deciding to build or buy..

seems if you build, will end up with a much better built machine equal to splitter costing 3K-5K

a third option has come up and that is to buy used. seems I'll need at min 26in ram, w/16 gpm, min 4in dia, 8hp motor etc.
 
You should be able to run right off your existing hydraulic system with just the expense of some hoses and quick connects.
 
I've been looking into the build/buy as well and now I wish I bought a used one I saw a few weeks back.

So now I'm looking at a revised UNICORN idea called The Stickler or go the used or "on sale" route.

I did see this on Ebay today. I'd say there's plenty of power :rock:here.
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that cone shaped stickler splitter using your car jacked up looks really dangerous!

if your clothing should ever snag... hate to think how badly you would get hurt!
 
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