Buying a new saw for felling, bucking, and light milking

[SpYd3r 3y3s]

I have been looking to move from homeowner grade 40cc saw to a pro-grade 70cc. I like my smaller saw for removing the branches from a tree once it has been felled but am looking for a saw that is more robust for felling, bucking, and light milling (30” diameter) with an Alaska Mill. I recently talked to a dealer who unequivocally said a 70cc class saw was far to small to use for any milling and that I should be buying a 90cc class saw.
Where I am not looking to use the saw predominantly for milling do you have any experience using a 70cc successfully for occasional milling? If yes, are there any special considerations when using a saw of this size in this application to avoid overtaxing the machine?

I’m new to the forum and wanted to thank you all for feedback in advance.

 

[86 350x]

I think milling with a 70 cc saw will wear it out quickly, milling seems to be the hardest thing on a chain saw
Just my .2

 

[Natster]

Never tried milking a cow with a saw... But it might work one time, till the cow was spooked of it! (Grin)
N

 

[ammoaddict]

I have been looking to move from homeowner grade 40cc saw to a pro-grade 70cc. I like my smaller saw for removing the branches from a tree once it has been felled but am looking for a saw that is more robust for felling, bucking, and light milling (30” diameter) with an Alaska Mill. I recently talked to a dealer who unequivocally said a 70cc class saw was far to small to use for any milling and that I should be buying a 90cc class saw.
Where I am not looking to use the saw predominantly for milling do you have any experience using a 70cc successfully for occasional milling? If yes, are there any special considerations when using a saw of this size in this application to avoid overtaxing the machine?

I’m new to the forum and wanted to thank you all for feedback in advance.

Welcome to the forum. I laughed when I saw your post about light milking.
I would think a good 70cc pro saw would be fine for occasional milling of smaller logs. If you're going to do a lot of it and bigger logs, I would get a bigger saw. New big saws cost big money. For me, if I only had an occasional big log to mill, I wouldn't buy a big saw just for that, I would take it to a saw mill and pay a few bucks to have it sawn.

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[DSW]

Maybe he knows about milling, maybe he's going for an upsale....regardless he's right. I'd go for 90 or even north of that. A 70cc would do an occasional small log if that's the goal.

A great milling saw isn't a great felling saw and a great felling saw isn't a great milling saw.

I'd shy away from those two saws regardless of my goals but that's your choice.

 

[csmillingnoob]

Milling a 30" log will require a 36" bar on most mills. That's too much for a 70cc saw.

I run a H-390xp with 88ccs, and the 36" bar needed to cut a 30" log is the top of my every-weekend comfort level. I have bought a 42" bar for 30-36 inch logs but I'm nervous about using it. (See post in chainsaw forum). Indeed, I will only use it on rare occasion when I am down to only the center cuts of a beautiful spalted log. Here's what Granberg says, but most of us believe "it ain't their saws being put at risk" .https://granberg.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/BAR-CHART-GRAPH.pdf.

Can you occasionally mill with 70cc saws? Yeah, but I don't think a 36" bar for 30" logs is gonna give them long and happy lives. Nose oiler would be an absolute must. (I say use it for ALL milling) Stick with a 32" bar to cut 26" max if you simply can't get bigger than 70 ccs. That will allow you to "shave" live edge slabs from the top and bottom of a 30" log and cut beams from what is left (the widest portion of the 30 inch log) with a vertical mill like the Haddon Lumbermaker. Better advice, buy a bigger saw.

I am a noob though.

 

[SeMoTony]

I have been looking to move from homeowner grade 40cc saw to a pro-grade 70cc. I like my smaller saw for removing the branches from a tree once it has been felled but am looking for a saw that is more robust for felling, bucking, and light milling (30” diameter) with an Alaska Mill. I recently talked to a dealer who unequivocally said a 70cc class saw was far to small to use for any milling and that I should be buying a 90cc class saw.
Where I am not looking to use the saw predominantly for milling do you have any experience using a 70cc successfully for occasional milling? If yes, are there any special considerations when using a saw of this size in this application to avoid overtaxing the machine?

I’m new to the forum and wanted to thank you all for feedback in advance.

Look at avatar; there is a Ms-460 wearing a 60" cannon bar and skip square chisel chain. Not as fast as the ported 661 I've added to the herd since, but milling is not fast for us anyway.
Milling 37" x 77" healthy ash into 15 slices with 42" bar. I run the oiled (top) side of the bar because that's what I always did, before being told different.
The skip chain reduces by half the cutting resistance and provides more room for the chips which can clog up the way. Slicing the stump into 4 table tops was slow & only time that bar was needed. The slices made that bar worth the cost and time it took.
I was asked if I wanted to mill this ash after I was seen milling a 38" x 10 foot white oak with ripping chain and the same 42" 70 cc combo. Very slow, got a loop of skip and proceeded more quickly.
I listen to the tune the power head is singing. On a down slope I've needed to hold back to keep the saw in it's range that pushes the cooling air thru. 70 cc's can be used, my experience shows that it is doable as may be required with care. Please study milling 101 Re: sharpening chain for milling, most important part of milling
Hope you enjoy milling safely

 

[foeke]

I have a 79cc to pull a 36" ripping chain. But it's not enjoying the procces.

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