C C C CARRRRRR bide :)

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carbide or hardfaced?

  • carbide

    Votes: 1 33.3%
  • hardface

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • give up and keep the fire going

    Votes: 1 33.3%
  • grow some balls and use the axe

    Votes: 2 66.7%
  • put the retaining wall on the other side and bury the stump in three feet of dirt?

    Votes: 1 33.3%

  • Total voters
    3

headsmess

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so, this will probably scare anyone reading this...

ive never dealt with a carbide chain, but im assuming theyre SHARP. much like a regular circ saw...

well, i want a blunt one.

i only have a lil ms170, but tis a beast, now it has a new bar and chain (and the 180 cylinder). today i had the old chain and bar back on.

nipped it on the bench grinder and removed every raker.


why? im stump grinding! theres rocks, dirt and somewhere, theres tree roots in the mess... at the moment its getting burnt :)

i HATE CAMPHOR LAURELS!

yes, i know, i could hire a service, theres a guy round here owes me a few favours for making his grinder teeth :). still, with floating and all that, its gunna cost me. i got 30 dollars til pay day and thats gunna be a small one this time. stupid casual work. i dont miss the factory and the 6 day weeks but!

yes, i used to work in a carbide factory, brazing all sorts of things...never got to do a chainsaw but!

so, obviously, im not about to BUY one... my intended purpose is rather brutal.


so....would i be better off just getting a dermat (hardfacing) rod, and bogging my teeth up? or debraze an old circ saw and try brazing all these lil teeth on? only 55 of em, ive done worse (used to do the reciprocating blades used on those arbor-pro plunge saws. they come in two hands, and theres four styles of tooth on one blade!)

not really in the right area to try ANFO :) (ooooh, imagine all the sirens that went off on that small four letter acronym!)
 
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typical small penis syndrome.

this was a (lengthy) simple question on whether anyone would contemplate stump grinding by hardfacing and or brazing inserts onto a used chain.

this was not a comparison of whos saw is bigger, or faster, or has the longest bar.

a 170 suits MY needs perfectly.

hope santa brings you a ruptured disc and two shattered vertebrae to start off the new year :) and maybe a dead climber...

i should have known better than to ask advice from professionals.


(my apologies to anyone thats a professional but would like to add something USEFUL)
 
typical small penis syndrome.

this was a (lengthy) simple question on whether anyone would contemplate stump grinding by hardfacing and or brazing inserts onto a used chain.

this was not a comparison of whos saw is bigger, or faster, or has the longest bar.

a 170 suits MY needs perfectly.

hope santa brings you a ruptured disc and two shattered vertebrae to start off the new year :) and maybe a dead climber...

i should have known better than to ask advice from professionals.


(my apologies to anyone thats a professional but would like to add something USEFUL)

Ok, so here's a professional answer. No, we professionals have never considered wasting a bunch of time brazing on an old chain, that's just going to destroy itself when you abuse it that way, not to mention the bar. When we want to grind a stump, we use a ****ing stumpgrinder, dumbass. As far as your christmas wishes, go **** yourself. Somebody ban this prick.
 
ive never dealt with a carbide chain, but im assuming theyre SHARP. much like a regular circ saw...

Carbide chains are not that sharp. That are designed for longevity, not speed. I've used carbide chain for cutting threw roofs on the fire department and occasionally I've cut threw some trees. Defiantly a regular chain is faster but in a dirty wood situation the regular chain would not last.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I've got to admit though, my first thought using a 170 was "man, this would make an awesome stumpgrinder. Just gotta get me some bigger teeth!"
Tried picco carbide on a 170 for root/stumps once, good luck with your idea.
If you fit really big teeth run it without the clutch cover about groin height and post vids
 
jolly logger. thankyou. i know, a pro would use a bandit or similar... for which, once again...i used to make those cutters. ditch witches, vermeers, the hammer blocks used on land clearers or whatever they are. i think theyre FAE or something? and even plain old 1/2" shank cutters, LH, RH and straight...

im sure, even a pro will admit, that theres certain times and places you just cant get a stump grinder in there. they have a fairly large footprint...

hence why i ask this. what do you do if you have a stump thats half under a brickwall in a 3 foot wide alleyway? what if its hanging out a rock wall at 6 feet? what do you guys do? just grin and bear it, get the axe out? try a coarse diamond blade on a nine inch? are there any easy options out there? if hardface/ carbide works, i see no harm in having a loop hang there for when i do this chain destroying type stuff. its not the first time. for some reason half the trees on this place were planted on large piles of rubble... i hate bricks more than i hate camphor laurels.


i wouldnt be doing this with my good bar and chain! or clutch even.

my apologies to the first reply, about christmas. you were rude, i was rude in return. lets move on. really, i give credit to anyone that will dangle from a rope 30 metres or more up a dead tree, and wish them no ill.

home made, thats been the best response so far. thankyou. if they were sharp, yes...they will still shred rapidly in nasty stuff. better to be slightly rounded rather than sharp. golden rule with any type of carbide...negative rakes.(other than on circular saws, when a blunt blade is a nightmare...) the stuff is strong in compression, not shear. takes a lot of power to drive them properly (on a lathe, at least)... which leads me on to the last reply...

treesmith....just because of that.... i think ill try hardfacing instead. if i do what you suggest, ill post a video after i get out of hospital :) at least hardfacing doesnt require a jig or too much work. just the oxy torch. ahhhh, after the holidays ill have a go... i could do with a few more weeks off!


umm... are you being sarcastic about the 170 or not? like...its a good saw to kill this way, or its way too small to ever rip stumps effectively? or there was no implied message, and what you said was what you meant?

why do trees always grow where its inconvenient?


right, time to go put up with the rellies :(
 
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well, research has come up with two or more styles of chain. standard carbide chain, which is relatively sharp, as its for timber, will last longer than steel and can take the odd nail or two without causing nasty words to be said... but isnt quite up to the job demanded by some, which is probably what led on to this one being made, exactly what i see in my minds eye...

http://www.cuttersedge.com/Products/BULLETregChain/tabid/78/Default.aspx

give it pcd inserts and well... id try cutting through 100Mpa foundations with it...


something to keep in mind for the future.
 
image.jpg May the chickens peck your soulless corpse, while the roosters run a train on you after the fatal ms170 "beast" grenades.

Edit: edited by moderator. (Thanks for the warning). In the future I shall refrain from such behavior. If I can help it.:rolleyes:
 
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typical small penis syndrome.

this was a (lengthy) simple question on whether anyone would contemplate stump grinding by hardfacing and or brazing inserts onto a used chain.

this was not a comparison of whos saw is bigger, or faster, or has the longest bar.

a 170 suits MY needs perfectly.

hope santa brings you a ruptured disc and two shattered vertebrae to start off the new year :) and maybe a dead climber...

i should have known better than to ask advice from professionals.


(my apologies to anyone thats a professional but would like to add something USEFUL)

Really, a dead climber, wow. BTW, already have the ruptured disk's and still climb! Yes, my saw is bigger than yours............ I have a 180. And anyone who uses a saw to grind stumps, well............ your special.
 
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Ok, so here's a professional answer. No, we professionals have never considered wasting a bunch of time brazing on an old chain, that's just going to destroy itself when you abuse it that way, not to mention the bar. When we want to grind a stump, we use a ****ing stumpgrinder, dumbass. As far as your christmas wishes, go **** yourself. Somebody ban this prick.
Done, it expires Dec 2026. Geeze!, I was just kidding around about his saw, then he wants me dead, that went kinda fast!
 
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Cut off what you can safely and treat the whole 9 yards with copper sulphate, sit back and late nature take it's course. ( cheapest option )

Full tilt- remove portion of wall, grind out stump, treat area with copper sulphate, rebuild wall.
 
Copper sulfate is a preservative, and a really nasty environmental hazard. Just as a note to any homeowner who may think is a good idea, this will make sumps last a hundred years, and make burning them impossibly toxic.
 
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