Cabling... your opinion?

[Tom Dunlap]

Like I've said before, I've fagged out lots of saw chains, climbing spikes, clothes, engines, cars, houses, heck, even my supper dishes. They were dirty and used, I guess that they should have been chucked out instead of maintained.

Wulkie taught me that if the only tool I have is a chainsaw then the only solution is a removal. My toolbox is full of more tools though. Handsaws, cabling, understanding tree physiology are in there along with wrenches and rigging gear.

Someone expanded on the definition of a traditional vrs. progressive arbo. Knowing when to use the correct tool is a sign of a progressive arbo.

Trees start to fail in winds over about 40 mph. But, a lot survive. Good thing or we'd be out of work.

 

[NeTree]

Trees start to fail in winds over about 40 mph. But, a lot survive. Good thing or we'd be out of work.

Naw...

We'd be in reconstruction.

 

[a_lopa]

most guys that have done a decent stint 7-10yrs rural/city r.o.w truely understand what your all clutching at straws about,what the hell are you going to thin off that tree

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Guy, I rail against CR when it's not called for, like Toms pic of the huge Basswood. In a case like the Birch we recently talked about, I'd say go for it, better than complete removal. Aussie has a point about doing a CR on these trees, they are not good candidates.
Clearance recommends removing every tree that's not perfect, you recommend CR.
LMAO at Clearance. He insists the tree is a hazard that has to be removed, but I bet $10 he'd spike right up there without a thought about it being hazardous, because he knows it's NOT!

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

LMAO at Clearance. He insists the tree is a hazard that has to be removed, but I bet $10 he'd spike right up there without a thought about it being hazardous, because he knows it's NOT!

But if you take his professional perspective, his veiw of tree hazard is that it might fall and he is in ROW work.

I think he just has to take a step back and realize that there are differing levels of risk tolerance when targets and failure probability are taken into concideration.

When in doubt, cut it out is good policy for ROW, but not for landscape work.

 

[Pondracer]

Finally got the quote for doing the tree work this last Sunday (4/17). Not counting the spraying program, to prune all my trees, and place the following cables...

Tree 1 = 3 cables
Tree 2 = 1 cable
Tree 3 = 1 cable

$1560.00

 

[treeseer]

Maybe you can get quote from Jason or someone; after all we've seen your whole yard, right?

ButI don't think the quote you got sounds out of line.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Finally got the quote for doing the tree work this last Sunday (4/17). Not counting the spraying program, to prune all my trees, and place the following cables...

Tree 1 = 3 cables
Tree 2 = 1 cable
Tree 3 = 1 cable

$1560.00

Sounds like a high bid, for work that doesn't really need doing. Just my opinion.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Just to add to the information you are gathering to make your decision, each strand of cable and hardware costs about $35 or $40 for the materials. A good arborist should spend about a half hour putting up a single strand, with the help of a groundman. That's once the tools and supplies are unloaded and put near the tree.
So for 5 strands in the trees you pictured, I'd expect it to take two men about 3 hours to complete the job. Add to that around $200 materials.
Hope that helps.

 

[KentuckySawyer]

In my opinion, a light tip pruning and 2-3 cables in the Silver Maple that was originally asked about would be a fine option to removal. As far as the cuts stressing the tree, Silver Maples are such vigorous growers that I would think the tree wouldn't be hurt in any quantifiable way. Cables are DEFINATELY helpful as a support mechanism.

For example, several years ago I installed a three part cable in 44" Hackberry that couldn't have been any closer to the house. In some storms we had last spring/summer one of the leads shifted and was depending largely on the cable for support. If the cables hadn't been installed, there is no doubt the lead would have fallen across the driveway. Later that fall I removed the tree because of the failure of crotch wood and proximity to the house.

From the tree trimmers economic perspective, if you are only doing removals, you have no repeat customers. Prune it, deadwood it, cable it, prune it again, then remove it when the time comes. I'm not swindling anybody by taking care of their tree if they value it. At the same time if my opinion is that the tree is a hazard, I'll voice that opinion.

I'm in this business because I like trees.

 

[Jim1NZ]

Has anyone mentioned thew cobra brace system?
A little more expensive but...
No drilling required, adjustable, slightly flexible, no whiplash in strong winds like steel cables cause. Much better for the tree...