can firewood get to dry

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gunny100

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can firewood get to dry
or is the dryer the wood would it put out more heat
 
can firewood get to dry
or is the dryer the wood would it put out more heat
I take your question earnestly, why would you waste people's time if not? And feel the answer is yes and no. Yes, it can get too dry to (easily) process - so dry it's much harder to cut and split - had an Aussie (Cowboy 254) mention that here just this morning. But no, the drier wood is the better it burns, as less of it's energy is spent liberating the water. Some may argue that modern stoves aren't designed to handle kiln dried wood, but that's a different question. I believe it's pure math, but there will likely be someone shortly say otherwise!
 
I take your question earnestly. And feel the answer is yes and no. Yes, it can get too dry to (easily) process - so dry it's much harder to cut and split - had an Aussie mention that here just this morning. But no, the drier wood is the better it burns, as less of it's energy is spent liberating the water. I believe it's pure math, but there will likely be someone shortly say otherwise!
If you had seen one of his previous threads on “putting wood in the clothes dryer” you would understand the answers given.
 
I'd say yes, and here's why.
One of the many things I do is teach INTRODUCTION TO ELECTRIC ARC WELDING. In class we work with many electrodes. E6010, E6011, E6013, E7018, E7024 to name a few. We discuss techniques for applying fast freeze, fast fill and fill freeze electrodes, whip, oscillate and drag... but we also discuss storage. If an electrode is shipped in a sealed container it's most likely moisture sensitive and needs to be stored in a rod oven/hot box. Absorbing moisture will compromise its integrity and it will spit and sputter as it burns down. On the other hand if an electrode is shipped in a cardboard box just throw it on a shelf and keep it off the floor. The cellulose in the electrode will absorb ambient moisture but the electrode is optimized to burn correctly as designed with this. Don't put the 6011, 6013 or 7024 in a rod box because without the moisture they will run like $#!^ .... This is the same with wood especially if you have an EPA designed clean burning stove. Heat, air and fuel are combined in the correct ratio to burn effectively anticipating a minimal degree of moisture content. I'd suspect that if you burned super dry wood you'd at least suffer shorter burn times. Curious if the flue gasses would get better or worse.
 
500 lb chunks of firewood never get to dry.
Correct. We never leave them as 500lb chunks long enough to dry. We turn them into smaller chunks. Smaller chunks dry fasfer and are easier to move around.




The difference between "to" and "too". Damn English language.:p
 
my understanding of it was that kiln dried wood as an example burns too hot and fast for a stove and can cause over-fire and lead to warping the stove.

however if the fire is kept small and fed regular you could safely burn kiln dried wood (wood less than 7% mosture)

yes very dry wood can put off more heat but the issue is it can put off too much heat to fast.

in heating with wood we want a steady long lasting heat that seems to come very well at the 11-15% that wood naturally dries too when cut split and stacked under cover. but that is also what our stoves are designed for.
 
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