can firewood get to dry

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I'd say yes, and here's why.
One of the many things I do is teach INTRODUCTION TO ELECTRIC ARC WELDING. In class we work with many electrodes. E6010, E6011, E6013, E7018, E7024 to name a few. We discuss techniques for applying fast freeze, fast fill and fill freeze electrodes, whip, oscillate and drag... but we also discuss storage. If an electrode is shipped in a sealed container it's most likely moisture sensitive and needs to be stored in a rod oven/hot box. Absorbing moisture will compromise its integrity and it will spit and sputter as it burns down. On the other hand if an electrode is shipped in a cardboard box just throw it on a shelf and keep it off the floor. The cellulose in the electrode will absorb ambient moisture but the electrode is optimized to burn correctly as designed with this. Don't put the 6011, 6013 or 7024 in a rod box because without the moisture they will run like $#!^ .... This is the same with wood especially if you have an EPA designed clean burning stove. Heat, air and fuel are combined in the correct ratio to burn effectively anticipating a minimal degree of moisture content. I'd suspect that if you burned super dry wood you'd at least suffer shorter burn times. Curious if the flue gasses would get better or worse.
I disagree.
As a certified welder myself, welding different steels with different rods covered in different shielding flux are WAY different than heating with wood.
Wood needs to be as dry as possible so as not to create creosote in the stove or chimney and to get the most heat from it.
Creosote is created when the wood hasn't dried long enough and the natural sap and moisture hasn't exited the wood.
bfraser stated it correct and simple.
The dryer the wood the less energy used by the flame to remove the moisture hence the more BTU output as heat and the cleaner it burns. (less moist smoke to stick to inside of chimney too)
Most of us are burning at about 10% - 15% moisture and that will not change much.
So correct answer is NO.
 
my understanding of it was that kiln dried wood as an example burns too hot and fast for a stove and can cause over-fire and lead to warping the stove.

however if the fire is kept small and fed regular you could safely burn kiln dried wood (wood less than 7% mosture)

yes very dry wood can put off more heat but the issue is it can put off too much heat to fast.

in heating with wood we want a steady long lasting heat that seems to come very well at the 11-15% that wood naturally dries too when cut split and stacked under cover. but that is also what our stoves are designed for.
Too
 
get to dry? err.. yes, keep it out of the rain and off he ground and it get's to dry. Oh hang on...do you mean 'too'?

Air dried ...in most places around the world, probably not. in some very dry places of the world wood can get very dry and for most stove designs you could sy 'too' dry... it off gases very fast and over whelms the air inlet so causes more particulates, oe smoke.

owver I'm not one someone that advocates wet wood is better as it burns slow....if that is the root of any 'too dry question', then no.
 
Nice cuts.
I'll have to try that.
I do that too. I don't own or allow mauls , sledges, or wedges on my property. If it's too heavy to lift I have a couple 100CC saws with 24" bars that make noodles fast. I like a 3 1/2 to 4 pound ax, don't noodle all the way through, and start popping pieces off. The rest of the round will keep it from falling over.

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Good thinking outside the box on salt, us inland dwellers would be thinking lake driftwood.

Extremely fast.

Moisture, salt and temperature changes.

Disaster


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I do that too. I don't own or allow mauls , sledges, or wedges on my property. If it's too heavy to lift I have a couple 100CC saws with 24" bars that make noodles fast. I like a 3 1/2 to 4 pound ax, don't noodle all the way through, and start popping pieces off. The rest of the round will keep it from falling over.

aov6q7h.jpg


uaujeiu.jpg


7XyCgI1.jpg

Why not just use your 100cc saw to noodle all the way though......[emoji848].

This puzzles me sir.

You already have the saw running...... in the wood. Finish the cut instead of stopping and then getting your axe out to finish it...[emoji53]


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Why not just use your 100cc saw to noodle all the way though......[emoji848].

This puzzles me sir.

You already have the saw running...... in the wood. Finish the cut instead of stopping and then getting your axe out to finish it...[emoji53]


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I can't speak for Rarefish, but I would stop the noodle cut (as he's shown he does) before running my saw into the earth or whatever it's sitting on. Easy enough to pop that loose with the flick of an axe.
 
I can't speak for Rarefish, but I would stop the noodle cut (as he's shown he does) before running my saw into the earth or whatever it's sitting on. Easy enough to pop that loose with the flick of an axe.

Now I understand what you’re saying. I do the same thing. Stop the saw before I hit the dirt. I too then I roll the log over BUT finish the cut with the running saw.

To each his own fellas


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get to dry? err.. yes, keep it out of the rain and off he ground and it get's to dry. Oh hang on...do you mean 'too'?

Air dried ...in most places around the world, probably not. in some very dry places of the world wood can get very dry and for most stove designs you could sy 'too' dry... it off gases very fast and over whelms the air inlet so causes more particulates, oe smoke.

owver I'm not one someone that advocates wet wood is better as it burns slow....if that is the root of any 'too dry question', then no.
How have you been Neil?
 
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